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1/2" to 3/4" idea

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HakX

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2004
So, I have 3/4" barbs, and 1/2" tubing. Rather then stretching my tubing over the 3/4" hose barb, my idea is this. run 3/4" tubing from the heatercore, then get a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer. Diagram below

heatercore.JPG


would this work?
 
it should work, but with any water setups leak test it first. other then that , luck

peace
 
I recently tried to boil my 1/2" ID tubing, in order to fit it over the 3/4" barbs of my pump. Boiling the water and stretching the tubing was excrutiatingly difficult, as whenever I almost had it on, my fingers would burn and I would have to let go. However, instead I took the piece of tubing, cut a slit about a half inch long on the bottom, and fit that piece over the barb. Then, I proceeded to pull and pull and pull until I couldnt fit anymore tubing on, then I cut off the slit portion, and pulled and pulled and pulled again until it was on as well as it was gonna get. I did boil the tubing before this, as it made it a little more flexible, and I think it helped a little.
 
Iv been doing this for along time, i just stick the smaller tube on the Barbs, on my blocks and rad ect, and cut the tube till about 1nch is out, then stick the other end in the bigger tube and clamp it down.
 
CandymanCan said:
Iv been doing this for along time, i just stick the smaller tube on the Barbs, on my blocks and rad ect, and cut the tube till about 1nch is out, then stick the other end in the bigger tube and clamp it down.

Do u mean like fitting 2 hoses on a single barb? like if the barb is 1/2"OD, and u need to go up to 3/4"ID tubing, first u fit a piece of 1/2"ID-3/4"OD tubing on that barb and then the 3/4"ID tubing on top of that 1/2"ID tubing over the 1/2"OD barb? is that leak-proof at all? That's something I might need for my project ;) Only I need to go from 3/8"OD barb to 7/16"ID tubing...
 
Yes as long as the tubing has a tight fit when you put it over the smaller tubes, and you use some sort of clamp it is leak proof.

I use those metal clamps that you need a screw driver to tightn with, you can buy them @ home depot or some hardware store, when you clamp them you should clamp it pretty tight but not so tight to where the hole inside gets to small water cant flow throught it. Just make its tight enoug hthat ucant pull the tubing out.

I know its leak proof cuss when i moove my radiator around and shake it like crazy or twist the tubes and stuff when mooving it around it doesnt leak at all and no air ubbles have gotten in my system for over 3 months.

I did this because my rad uses 3/8 size fittings and so does my pump but my block uses 1/2, it also allows more water volume
 
The trick is that the reducer, while a standard copper fitting, has dimensions that are way off 1/2 and 3/4. The 3/4 dimension for example, is about 1/8th sort of a full inch.

As suggested, I usually nuke a cup of water, then dip the tube end for a minute: it hasn't failed me yet.
 
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