T-Line - what do you use to cap it?

WHat do you use to cap off a 1/2" T-Line?

sPaNk

I've been wondering the same thing! In fact, I've been wondering how to make a T-line in general if anyone can squeeze in some extra info.

You can try a boiling tube bung.

there's also a DangerDen Fill cap if you're interested, looks real nice

If there's nothing you can use, you could always bend the T-Line over so that it kinks and put a zip tie around it.

Alright... I'll answer OLMI's question first, then Spank's.

Some will say that this is maybe a bit impractical, but I like it cause it isn't ghetto or improvised.

Alright, to begin a T-line, first you want to know where to put it. If a T-line is the highest component in your system, air will go to the T-line faster, leaving you with, yes, faster bleeding. This saves you a TON of time when cleaning a system, or just starting it up for the first time. Generally, if you can manage it, top of the system is best, otherwise right in front of the pump intake works. You use a T-fitting and then connect about 6"-1' of tubing to the end of that. Make the T fitting oriented so that the T is upsidedown and the tubing is sticking stright up, but I hope you knew that already. Connect it up and you're ready to go. Don't forget to check for leaks.

CAUTION: MAKE SURE THAT NO AIR ENTERS YOUR SYSTEM IN A HIGHER POINT THAN THE T-LINE. I learned this the hard way and came back from a literally 2 minute break to go throw something out to find a puddle at the bottom of my case. Luckily, nothing broke, but it scared the crap out of me. Don't let this happen to you. If you have a thermochill or any other radiator with a bleed valve, close it tight before you turn your pump off. Otherwise air will come in the other way, and you will end up with a wet case floor. Never good.

So finally, to cap the T-line...
Go to your hardware store.

Now there are 2 options, you can go for a pure cap, or something like I have which is a 3/8" to 1/2" threaded adapter, then a 3/8" flare cap on the top of that. This lets me add stuff like dye to my loop without taking off the cap, which is nice. I still have to fill using a funnel and take the cap off though. The cap option is more simple. I believe a 3/8" cap will serve you well, as it simply pops into the tube and sits there. These do have some weight since they should be brass, so use a zip tie to keep the T-line upright.

Good luck and happy watercooling,
Fyber

EDIT: WELCOME TO THE FORUMS SPANK!!!

Fyberwire said:

Some will say that this is maybe a bit impractical, but I like it cause it isn't ghetto or improvised.

Alright, to begin a T-line, first you want to know where to put it. If a T-line is the highest component in your system, air will go to the T-line faster, leaving you with, yes, faster bleeding. This saves you a TON of time when cleaning a system, or just starting it up for the first time. Generally, if you can manage it, top of the system is best, otherwise right in front of the pump intake works. You use a T-fitting and then connect about 6"-1' of tubing to the end of that. Make the T fitting oriented so that the T is upsidedown and the tubing is sticking stright up, but I hope you knew that already. Connect it up and you're ready to go. Don't forget to check for leaks.

CAUTION: MAKE SURE THAT NO AIR ENTERS YOUR SYSTEM IN A HIGHER POINT THAN THE T-LINE. I learned this the hard way and came back from a literally 2 minute break to go throw something out to find a puddle at the bottom of my case. Luckily, nothing broke, but it scared the crap out of me. Don't let this happen to you. If you have a thermochill or any other radiator with a bleed valve, close it tight before you turn your pump off. Otherwise air will come in the other way, and you will end up with a wet case floor. Never good.

Click to expand...

Thanks

I use a 1/2" barb/teflon tape/flared cap. It works, and it's bulletproof.

It doesn't matter where in the system you put it, but if you fill your cooling system in-case, then I see why people would put it at the highest point.

Heheh, i just kinked it twice with 2 180 degree bends and used some wire to hold it

From USplastics.com

1/2" Tube Fitting w/male threaded end - #61143

Fitting threaded cap - #62167

Total cost is right about $1 + shipping (minimal)

You can find these parts in just about every hardware store either in the tubing section or in gardening (garden hose repair parts). If you plan on transporting your rig much I would look into tossing a small grommet/rubber washer in the end for a nice snug leak-free seal.

I actually went for the Dangerden Fillport myself, I simply like the way it looks.


***EDIT***
The above are for 1/2" ID tubing. The same pages can be used to find a fitting/cap combo that will fit smaller IDs as well.

LOL...AA battery.... but make sure its only a Duracell and the black end always goes up.

Thanks guys!

sPaNk

Bolt

Couldn't you just use a bolt? Get one that is 9/16 and screw it into the tubing? Seems like it would work to me.

musk

for the case im working on the T line is pluged with a fosset weilded to coper extention. to bleed it Just add a gardenhose extention and turn the fosse the activate the pump and there it goes

well thats my plan!

What would you reccomend for me... heres what I am planning to set up.

I dont really want to spend money on that dangerden fill port. I am going to attach my tubing to the top of my case. I could maybe use a few ideas for that too. Then I was just thinking I could find a plug at a hardware store, paint it... and put it out on top there?

Legion2005-

Well, you could use this -

Nylon Fitting with Lock Nut

And then simply find a cap to screw on the top. Two options for the length of the threaded portion. You could cut it off at the height you desire so it doesnt stand up so high or simply use some spacing washers below the metal to lower the top of the fitting to the level you want.

This is the cheap way of doing a bulkhead fitting. Drill the hole, slip the threaded end through and use the nut to secure the fitting to the panel. Then from the same site get a matching cap to screw on top. Total solution is under $2 (shipping extra if necessary). Might also need to add on a clamp as well but its still right at $2

Seriously, a AA battery works great.

ChuckS said:

Seriously, a AA battery works great.

Click to expand...

Dude, no.

A marble! works great

Can you say melted tubing? If water touches the flat end of the AA, short and LOTS of heat. an AAA gets BURNING hot in about 30 seconds, to hot for me to hold.

Huh??? Where's the circuit get completed in this scenario if the positive terminal isn' making contact with anything?

I dont cap mine since most of my watercooling system is external