PIII 750 Max VoLtage?

[Propilot]

Had to bump up the voltage to 2.0v to run stable at 1ghz (133 bus).
I am using a lapped cpu and lapped Golden Orb. I have a new Antec Sx840 case (server tower/400w) with 5 case fans. Runs cool 32c Idle 38-40c under load.
Is this Voltage ok, at least for now? I know it will shorten the life, but I'd like to keep this processor for at least another year.
This is the only bus speed i have tried with this voltage. I may try to bump up the speed. After awhile running at this I may try to drop the voltage.
Thanks

[Placid]

Your temps are good so you should not have a problem.

[Jon]

As long as temps are kept in check (40C is as high as I'd want to be with 2.0V) it should be fine. High voltage will degredate a chip over time but we're talking only shaving a few years off of 10+ years.

Some extreme burn in at that voltage for several days/weeks may actually allow you to drop the voltage a bit and run stabily at that speed.

Good luck and let us know how it goes...

[dude]

GORB! Dump it and get something decent.

[Pinky]

Those temps seems rather low for that high a voltage.

If they are, more power to you. If the heatsink is scorching hot to the touch (which at 40C should only be warm and able to keep your finger against it) I would drop the overclock speed and voltage and get a better cooler (like the prior post suggested).

If everything's OK, I'd say drop to default speeds, 1.90 V and burn it in for a day or so. I know it's not super popular, but I've actually gotten voltages down a couple clicks after a 24 hours burnin.

[Propilot]

Originally posted by dude
GORB! Dump it and get something decent.

Surprisingly the orb lapped is 5c degrees cooler than my Global twin fan cooler.
I'm not going to invest in an Alpha as long as these cool temps stay (why should I?), besides my next cpu will be a socket with a converter card.

[Phil]

I don't think it's really the temp that kills cpu's, sure if it starts going over 100oC then it's likely to fry, but intel claims an operating temp of 70oC or thereabouts, at which temperature it has to last around 10 years or so. I beleive it's the voltage that does the damage to the chip, at any temp though maybe more exagurated at higher temps. Which is why I only recomend going up to 1.9v with the default intel cooler, and not to go over 2v with anything other than a peltier

[JaY_III]

whoops went over 2.0 (cBo) without a pelt.. but i got water :)
and but goal is to kill my celeron (aka i realise the danger)

[Phil]

it probabally is just me being paranoid and most coppermines are probabally ok at sover 2v, but I have heard of people running at like 2.1-2.2v and have had the chip spontainiously die on them even with quite good cooling

[XJ40]

I am also running a 750 @ 1ghz. It was stable at 1.95v but after a couple of months have been able to lower it to 1.9v. Try to keep it in this range and you should not have any problems. Temps are equal to yours. Did the wire trick to the cpu and modded the socket to up the default voltage to 1.85-2.20v availble in the bios. Sure behaves like a genuine 1ghz.



P3-750@1ghz 1.90v watercooled
Asus CUSL2
256 MB Corsair PC150 memory
Geforce 2 MX modded to Quadro
Plextor 8x4x32 CDRW / Generic 54X CD
Promise ATA 66 card
Advansys SCSI card
20gb,8.4gb,4.3gb Hardrives
Linksys 10/100 nic
Turtle Beach A3D (Aureal) sound card

[stompah]

Originally posted by Phil
it probabally is just me being paranoid and most coppermines are probabally ok at sover 2v, but I have heard of people running at like 2.1-2.2v and have had the chip spontainiously die on them even with quite good cooling
I run my 600celly at 2.10v no problems yet though I havent used it regularly in a long time.

But I do agree with your theory that voltage kills the CPU rather than heat.

[Propilot]

I'm trying to burn it in with Prime95 so I possibly won't need that high of voltage.
Its been running since last night. Questions though:
1)Do you set it up on Auto like I have done or do you want to use the Torture test?
2)Is 24 hours long enough? I have it set at default speed and 1.9 volts.
Thanks

[Phil]

Originally posted by Propilot
I'm trying to burn it in with Prime95 so I possibly won't need that high of voltage.
Its been running since last night. Questions though:
1)Do you set it up on Auto like I have done or do you want to use the Torture test?
2)Is 24 hours long enough? I have it set at default speed and 1.9 volts.
Thanks

The torture test is the best cpu stress tester going in my opinion, not so much in the way it stresses but that it reports errors rather than crashing.

As for burning in, well there is no scientific methodology behind it, some people will tell you that turning the fan off for a bit be improve the thermal transfer properties, or that running at a high voltage will let you then use lower voltages. If you want to try then experiement, but I am by no means saying that anything will happen, it may be a wasted exercise

[Propilot]

So you think trying to burn it in will not help with the voltage?

[outhouse]

Originally posted by Propilot
So you think trying to burn it in will not help with the voltage?

90% of the time burning in will help so that you can lower CV or raise FSB a little. One note i would not ever run your CPU with the fan off to improve thermal transfer i tried that on my CPU and i lost ground i never got back, only after vidpinning and getting a better HSF did i get past the point where i was at but if i had not tried with the fan off i may be at 1300 now. I think at 2.00CV you will be fine but it would be best to get your temps below 35C at full load but if your stable then you should be fine, after 2 days to 2 weeks i would try and see if you can lower CV allthough i prefer to see how high i can raise FSB and still keep her stable.

[Phil]

Originally posted by Propilot
So you think trying to burn it in will not help with the voltage?

I'm not saying I don't or do think anything, only that nor I or anybody else knows whether it does anything, I've never seen any science and so will remain sceptical.
If you have the time and want to try it then go for it, but don't expect miracles and don't cry if something goes wrong.
outhouse said that 90% of the time burning in will help you lower the voltage, I'm just wondering where he got that information from, was it the same place that came up with the '90% of all statistics are made up' or have you actually got some real stats?

[Propilot]

Originally posted by Phil


I'm not saying I don't or do think anything, only that nor I or anybody else knows whether it does anything, I've never seen any science and so will remain sceptical.
If you have the time and want to try it then go for it, but don't expect miracles and don't cry if something goes wrong.
outhouse said that 90% of the time burning in will help you lower the voltage, I'm just wondering where he got that information from, was it the same place that came up with the '90% of all statistics are made up' or have you actually got some real stats?

I would also like to hear some true stories on peoples experiences.

[Pinky]

I did a build for a friend, 667 celeron to 1ghz. It would run fine with stock cooling at 1ghz but needed a voltage bump. After 18hours of burnin, got the voltage at 1.75 (instead of 1.85), only a .05v increase... not bad for a cC0 celeron :).

He still have this PC, still working smooth and pretty cool (even with the stock heatsink/fan).

That's the only time I've had to burn a CPU in, though I'm thinking about doing that soon with mine.

[Phil]

but was it necessarily the chip as intel burns these chips in for long periods of time (burn-in in the sense of stress testing) so I don't see how an extra few hours made any differance unless it was something to do with the pins settling in, or the Thermal compound settling in etc...

[Propilot]

Ok, people.
After further testing, I broke down after my findings using a high stress program.
26c Idle
43c underload....then crash.

Alpha 3125 on the way.
I hope it is worth the money!

[Propilot]

Bump

Are they?

[Phil]

Are alphas worth the money?
Well they are good heatsinks, I would personally have gone for either an sk6 or glaciator, the sk6 is loud (delta fan) but the best performer, the glaciator is quiet and nearly as good as an sk6

[outhouse]

My 90% comes from the experience ive had at this website, [this is just my opinion and should be taken as such since this is a open forum] I have never heard anyone say they ruined a CPU trying to burn in, and i have never heard anyone say they had negative results after trying to burn in unless they disconnected the fan which i would never recommend as ive seen this have negative results. True there is no scientific reason behind this but the fact remains the same more people do have succes with burning in and from what i have seen its around 90%, on my current CPU i have burned this one in twice each time i have raised CV and after a period of time resulting in stability so that i could raise FSB where i could not before, why turn down CV if you can gain MHZ if your temps are fine. I thought the whole point of this forum is to try to help others with different ideas and opinions, since burning in cannot hurt and more often then not [most of the time] it has benificial results [to some extent]why come after me :confused: or even try and knock it as all it can do is help and its not a waist of time because you can run a program in the background or shut it off to run a game or app that may need all your CPu's power.

remember theres allot of things that science cannot explain but it works just the same.

[Propilot]

Originally posted by Phil
Are alphas worth the money?
Well they are good heatsinks, I would personally have gone for either an sk6 or glaciator, the sk6 is loud (delta fan) but the best performer, the glaciator is quiet and nearly as good as an sk6

I've got a slot1 and I heard they are the best for that.
Besides aren't the other ones for sockets?

Outhouse,
I appreciate your input!

[Silversinksam]

Propilot,


The Alpha 3125 is probably the best HSF for a Slot1 cpu, its like a Mack Truck and Alpha make a quality product with the Copper insert and anodized aluminum fins cold forged simutaniously. Not to mention the cutouts in the HSF to cool your L2 cache.


Here is a tip, if the CPU is out of warranty or OEM try this,

If you have a dremmel, cut out a small rectangle on the back casing of the CPU........You can use double sided tape and stick a small 40 mill fan to the hold down bracket on the back casing or just leave it passivly cooled. Its an Ez mod for the Alpha 3125/slot 1 cpus (PS make sure you take the backplate off completly while you make the small cutout) :p

[Phil]

Originally posted by Propilot


I've got a slot1 and I heard they are the best for that.
Besides aren't the other ones for sockets?

Outhouse,
I appreciate your input!

Yes they are for sockets you are right. The alphas probabally are the best choice for a slot then, with the Global Win VOS 32+ being another good choice, of course there is a guide to convert the glaciator to a slot 1 heatsink in the guides on the oc.com front page

[Mr B]

Being the one who wrote up the article for modding the Glaciator for SECC2 use, let me say this.

Drill slowly, and tap the threads even slower. Copper isn't the easies to work with, and being as soft as it is, it's quite easy to bung up the threads.

To do this, you'll need the attachment hardware for an Alpha P3125, which can be ordered seperately for $6+ and shipping.

For those who don't own an Alpha (the URL is printed on the box), go to;

http://www.micforg.co.jp

Note; The screws that come with the Alpha hardware are indeed metric, and are 2.5mm x 17.7 I searched for what seemed to the ends of the earth for a tap this size, and couldn't find one.

I mention specifically what I did use for screws, and tap size in the article, found here;

http://www.overclockers.com/tips615

This is a bit of a dicey operation, and ruined the first HSF for use in this fashon by breaking off two drill bits and one thread tap in it. (Still works great on my FC-PGA P///, mounted in a slocket though) Unless you've already got a P3125 to raid the mount hardware from, and the taps and screws, etc... you're better off going with the P3125. By the time you add up the $$ for the Glaciator, the P3125 hardware, shipping, screws, taps, oil for cutting threads, bla, bla, bla, you've spent a whole lot of $$ for only about a 2oC decrease in temps.

Plus, you run the risk of snapping a drill bit and having to buy a P3125 anyways...:( (fortunately I had the 2nd one available)

I've contacted Andrew Lemont of Millennium Thermal Solutions regarding incorporating this modification into a new version of the Glaciator, which would also have a small portion of one edge of the base milled to clear the ZIF arm of an intel s370. He's got too many irons in the fire right now, but might consider this in the future. I hope he does, as it would open up a lot of sales for him as the Glaciator could then be used for Socket "A", Socket 370, and SECC2 applications.

Anyways.... I have run the heck out of my 600E with the P3125, and my temps never hit 40oC. I'd recommend it highly.

Mr B

[Propilot]

Bought and installed the P3125s w/YS fans.
Lowered temps and allowed me to reduce voltage to 1.95
See my new sig??!!