Setting up new case input wanted

Greetings all
I have been ghosting the forums for a while now reading until my eyes bled and am a point were I would really like some input .
I am in the process of upgrading my current config, changing cases and putting a real water cooling system in and would like to make it 100% internal.

Before I go on I just want to thank all of you for your brilliant insights, if it weren’t you I would be wondering which plug and play kit to buy next.
Cheers.

The Case I am going with is a lian-li pc-v2000 which I am going to partially gut out removing the first set of hard drive racks and the to make room for a 120mm radiator and pump.
This is where I start to start to second guess myself, because the size and configuration of the case it I want to also add a duel 80mm radiator in the rear of the case but am uncertain if this would cause too much load/back pressure in the system to make a worth while endeavor.

The cooling block configs I am lean towards are either:
Danger Den RBX
Danger Den NV-68
Danger Den Z-chip block ( but am really on the fence about this as most of the data seem to suggest that a good passive system works. Any thoughts?)

Or:
Danger Den TDX
Danger Den NV-68
And using a Y to split the line just before intake and rejoining after out take.

Radiators:
Black Ice Pro 120mm
Black Ice dual 80mm
One or both depending on what mines greater than myself have to say


Reservoir:
Dual 5.25

Pump:
DD12V-D4 or MCP650
I know why not I 120v with a relay switch
1.) Unless I misread, higher heat and more noise
2.) They scar the hell out of me, that and I have only seen three and none inspire my confidence.

In truth the only things I am really committed to in this setup is the case and the Danger Den NV-68, past that I am wide open to suggestions.

I am attaching a stock pic of the case to give a visual as to how I see the lay out so far the circled red areas are things I plan to remove.

I welcome any and all input of every level of this case and its contents


Asus P4C-800e deluxe
Intel 3.2c Ghz
Corsair 2 x CMX512-3200LLPT 2-3-2-6
PNG 6800-GT 256Mb
Maxtor 2X SATA 160gb Raid 1
Maxtor 2x SATA 200gb (storage)
Lite-on Dvdrw SOHW-812S
Lite-on cdrw LTR-52246S
Lite-on dvd rom XJ-HD 166S
Enermax EG 651P-VE
Thermaltake Xaser III V2000A 7x 80mm fans (soon in a dumpster near you)
Watercooled but don’t want to get laughed @ because it’s a plug and play cooler

lol I hope i haven't missed thing.

Thanks again

I wouldnt bother with a chipset block. It's not really needed and only adds restriction to your loop.
Dont split your loop into a GPU and CPU part with a Y, the most restricive block could end up with very little flow.
You'll probably want to get a dual 120mm rad (or heatercore) instead of a Black Ice Pro 120mm or Black Ice dual 80mm. That p4 and 6800 put out quite a bit of heat, so i dont think a single 120 would be enough.

DD12V-D4 or MCP650

Click to expand...

Thats the same pump

You don’t think that both Radiators that would be enough cooling area?

I'm all ears to this forum! LIke you I also want to get (better) watercooling set up but for under $200. How much are these components costing yah?

Well cost isnt really something im stressing on but im looking at around 5 or 6 hundred when all is said and done.
Thats with the case which is around 200 and change @ the computer fair

Tech_Pen said:

You don’t think that both Radiators that would be enough cooling area?

Click to expand...

I suppose a 120mm and a dual 80mm should be enough, together it's almost the size of a dual 120. It just depends on how cool/quiet you want your system to be.

DarkJester said:

I suppose a 120mm and a dual 80mm should be enough, together it's almost the size of a dual 120. It just depends on how cool/quiet you want your system to be.

Click to expand...

Cool... as cool as possable given the space i have to work with and Quite will adding another radiator increase my noise ???

Keep in mind that the airflow through the rad is what removes the heat from the system. A single 120mm (Chevette type) rad with a standard 70cfm fan will perform as well or better than a double 80mm with standard 30cfm fans. Now of course you can play with the noisier 80mm fans and increase airflow....but the same goes for the 120s as well.

I would sincerely consider going with at least a pair of '86 Chevette HCs while dropping the dual 80. It looks like that case has a 120mm fan mounted in front and back. If so it would be a nice dual 120 rad box without much if any modification.

Don't waste your money on a Black Ice radiator. Either get 2 86 Chevette heatercores (each can fit 1 120mm fan) or a single 77' Bonneville heatercore (can fit 2 120mm fans). They're both under $20 and they're just as good as a Black Ice radiators (that are horribly overpriced).

Get the MCP-650 since it's quieter than the Danger Den version of the D4, a TDX (though a Swiftech MCW6002 would be better), and run the waterblocks in series, so go from your CPU block to your GPU block and back to the pump. Get rid of the reservoir if you want optimal flow (and as a result, optimal temperatures).

You could definitely fit a 77 Bonneville (dual 120mm heatercore) in the front if you cut a hole for it to use as an intake. That's quite a large case. Hell, if you wanted to you could get an 86 Chevette heatercore for the back as an exhaust and still put a 77 Bonneville up front for a 2x120mm intake and really cool things off. The MCP650 is plenty powerful and could definitely handle it, provided you get rid of that useless reservoir and put in a t-line instead.

Alacritan I see you point with the cost but how much of a pain in the butt is it to re-tool the HC to accept 1/2" line and make it mountable ?

I always got the impression a reservoir added more stability to the system... is this wrong?

I'm just curious aside from ease of mounting why do you favor the Swiftech MCW6002?

I always got the impression a reservoir added more stability to the system... is this wrong?

Click to expand...

How would it?

Tech_Pen said:

I'm just curious aside from ease of mounting why do you favor the Swiftech MCW6002?

Click to expand...

Because it preforms very well, and its construction, is very solid, and wont be prone to leaking.

Tech_Pen said:

I always got the impression a reservoir added more stability to the system... is this wrong?

Click to expand...

A reservoir will give you more coolant volume. This means it will take longer for your coolant to heat up and cool down. My reservoir is purely for cosmetic reasons. You'll get better flow rates without one.

pwnt by pat said:

How would it?

Click to expand...

socket7 beat me to it... more water to hold heat.

If i were to go with a close looped cooling system how offen will be filling it?

The current plug and play system I have holds about a quart+ or - a few ounces and need water every couple months... how much will that be shortened?

Tech_Pen said:

If i were to go with a close looped cooling system how offen will be filling it?

The current plug and play system I have holds about a quart+ or - a few ounces and need water every couple months... how much will that be shortened?

Click to expand...

With a properly sealed loop it should be numerous months as well.

1:A reservoir will give you more coolant volume. This means it will take longer for your coolant to heat up and cool down.
2:My reservoir is purely for cosmetic reasons.
3:You'll get better flow rates without one.

Click to expand...

1: While there is more coolant volume, this hardly makes a difference. The water temperature in a loop hardly changes temperature at all, a couple c at most. This temperature is easily returned to normal by the radiator. The fact that there's a res makes absolutely no difference in water temperature unless it's misplaced in the loop.

2: That is a respectable statement.

3: This is not necessarily true - it all depends on how the loop is set up. If you design a res to submerse your pump in, obviously with a completely unrestricted inlet, the pump will perform far better than one with just a tee. If you modify a res to have a 1inch id outlet to the pump then it will also have less restriction on the pump inlet. If you have small id tubing going from the res to pump or have any radiators/blocks inbetween the res in the pump, not only are you choking the inlet and causing efficency to drop as well as possible cavatiation(s) and head loss, all killing pump effeciency.

The current plug and play system I have holds about a quart+ or - a few ounces and need water every couple months... how much will that be shortened?

Click to expand...

A sealed unit should never lose water. If yours does then you have a leak.