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Silverstone Temjin SST-TJ05 water cooling

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freshy98

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2001
Location
Den Haag, The Netherlands
Silverstone Temjin SST-TJ05 water cooling (not 56K friendly)

Originally I had a thread for asking if anyone could tell me te space in the bottom front for mounting a fan/heatercore combo.
I got the information from a reviewer over at The Adrenaline Vault.
He has send me several nice pictures showing exactly what I needed to know, plus he measured things for me. Great guy, this Patrick D. Cox!!!

Today my own case will be shipped so on monday I can finally work on it myself.
Since I haven't seen people do watercooling in this case I will post pictures during the course of building up the case.

Hardware included will be the SST-TJ05 ;) CuttingEdge Bayres. 1 x 5¼ Clear Plexi version (I hate all those CCFL lighting in cases) and two SilverStone FP-53 (when they are shipped to the dealer which could take a while).

Also, the D-TEC Customs GPU waterblock will go, along with the heatsinks (Tweakmonster BGA heatsinks). The heatsinks will go on the mosfets.
I bought a Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer 3 to cool my ATI Radeon 9800XT.

Since the SS FP-53 are not available atm for me, I will use simple mounting brackets for the two hard drives. The third hard drive will be above the floppy drive. The NEC 2500A will be in the lower 5¼ bay, the two hard drives above it and the bay res will be in the top 5¼ bay. There won't be room to expand anymore, but I don't need the extra space anyway.
I don't need a fan controller anymore since it's in the TJ05 (thermal controller) and front USB/Firewire is on the side.

The Case en FP53 will be in silver, the NEC 2500A is black atm, but I am searching for either a silver replacement brezel, or painting it. Though I am, unsure that will be a good idea since it might be hard to get it nice and even silver.

Links: SST-TJ05 , SST-FP53 , CuttingEdge Bayres. 1 x 5¼ Clear , Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer 3
 
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The case came in today. WOW what a beautifull case it is!

Here are some pictures of the case getting stripped down to pieces.

IMG_0302_640.jpg

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Well, decided to go with a D-TEK Pro-Core JR120.
Reason for this change is that the normal Pro-Core is too big for the case :-(
I could ofcourse cut out a lot of the case, but I doubt if the stability of the case will stay. Also, I can now put my third hard drive in the lower 3.5" bay as planned.

The project will be more or less on hold for a couple of days till the new heatercore plus shourds arrive from Denmark (VCore).

Here is a picture of an even more stripped down case :)

IMG_0309_640.jpg
 
Finally cut some parts out of the case yesterday, and checked how the heatercore fits, etc. So, here are some new pictures.

IMG_0310_640.jpg

IMG_0312_640.jpg

The Artic Coolor on the video card is too big so I had to cut of some fins of the heatsink from the southbridge.
It still doesn't fit perfectly, but the card can go in now with a bit of force ;D
IMG_0313_640.jpg

The tube most far away will go to the output of the pump, and the front tube will go to the Cascade.
The BayRes will be installed in the second lowest 5.25" bay, thus minimizing the tubing needed.
I will install some sounds dempening stuff in the bottom.
IMG_0315_640.jpg

The hole ain't exactly a perfect cut, but it works :)
 
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Excellent. Didn't think you could fit a heater core in there. The lower intake did look to have some potential though. I look forward to more pictures.
 
The JR-120 fits when you cut a piece from the side like I did (shows in the picture) but the bigger Pro-Core doesn't without cutting too much.
It would render the case too instable I think.

The reviewer from Avault.com shows me extra pictures and measured space for before I bought my own case. That sure helped.

Didn't work on the case last night, but tonight I will continue after I cleaned the Cascade from algen. Still have no idea how they came in. All my Tygon I used in the Yeong Yang is green from the inside :(
Think I will let the system run with demi-water and some algen killer stuff for a day or 2 first. makes a nice leak test too :)
 
Placed some neopreen stuff in the bottom and a bit of the side in the case.
See the two pictures below:
IMG_0317_640.jpg

I also attached the tubes to check how it would fit.
This will be the finall setup when I have the new Tygon in.
IMG_0318_640.jpg

The picture below shows the algen in my Tygon tubes.
Trying to get some new tubes for it. Anyone know if algen killer stuff would get these tubes clean again?
IMG_0321_640.jpg
 
Lol, gonna sound nuts but....get a shotgun cleaning rod from a local sporting goods store. There are some pretty cheap ones with basically either a brush or rag on the end. It will clean those tubes right up with a little cleaner. Flush well and Viola!

Nice part is down the road if you try different additives you will probably do it again. Its less expensive than replacing the tubing regularly as well.
 
Bugsmasher said:
Lol, gonna sound nuts but....get a shotgun cleaning rod from a local sporting goods store. There are some pretty cheap ones with basically either a brush or rag on the end. It will clean those tubes right up with a little cleaner. Flush well and Viola!

Nice part is down the road if you try different additives you will probably do it again. Its less expensive than replacing the tubing regularly as well.

That's a nice idea. I was thinking of something similair but didn't know what to use.
Problem is that we don't have many sporting goods store that have weapons.
I don't know one in Holland at all. Anyways, the idea is good and I will look around. On the other hand, I need a new piece of about 45cm and one or 18cm. The 18cm part I have (filled with algies) and the 45cm I need new tubing, and since Tygon is sold by the meter I can do new completly for those two.

The only combination I used was 15% Glycol and 85% demi water. all copper parts so I don't know why I got algies anyway.
Think I will throw in some anti-algies stuff in too this time.
 
Nice project!

The demineralised water is not the same as distilled water, you should get the latter for the next round. It's available at any drugstore("drogist"). Also properly sealing your loop helps to battle algae.
 
It isn't? I allways thought it was! hmm, guess I will need to pay the "Da" a visit then ;-)

You mean sealing as in tightening the clams good enough or something else?

btw: what DTEK heatercore do you have? I have a spare Pro-Core (the bigger one) since I exchanged it with the JR120
 
freshy98 said:
It isn't? I allways thought it was! hmm, guess I will need to pay the "Da" a visit then ;-)

You mean sealing as in tightening the clams good enough or something else?

btw: what DTEK heatercore do you have? I have a spare Pro-Core (the bigger one) since I exchanged it with the JR120

Sealing the system from the outside- not just the clams, but also your reservoir or T-line cap; where you fill it up. These spots can be left open without the system leaking, but might introduce dirt into the system.

I have the Pro core; the Chevette heatercore. It did require some work to make it fit in my case! ;)
 
ah, that kind of sealing. I have that. completly sealed. I tend to move my case sometimes so it's saver then.

I just got two liters of destilled water from the Da.

Need another Pro-Core for serial/parallel setup? ;-)
 
freshy98 said:
ah, that kind of sealing. I have that. completly sealed. I tend to move my case sometimes so it's saver then.

I just got two liters of destilled water from the Da.

Need another Pro-Core for serial/parallel setup? ;-)

Sure, send it to me and I'll pay for the shipping costs. ;)
 
hehe should have mentioned a price for the heatercore plus shrouds.
30 Euro (ex shipping) and it's yours.

btw: didn't we live close to each other? I believe you were in Delft?
 
Haha, that Coolermaster case of mine won't hold another heatercore even with the most extensive mods! I won't be needing a second core in the near future. :)
 
How heavy is that case? Looks like a dual thermochill or BI would fit nicely in the top without interferring with the psu.
 
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