• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

"Heat Stamp of a Watercooled Computer" - A School Art Project That I did

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

felinusz

Senior Overclocking Magus
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Taiwan
"Heat Stamp of a Watercooled Computer" - A School Art Project That I did

In thought that you guys might apreciate seeing this work that I did.

I'm posting this here, because it's more related to watercooling then anything else :)

This is an art project I did using Adobe Illustrator, for my High School Art class.

Comments are appreciated :)

felinuszcomputerheatspotRGB.jpg



Here's the image link, the image doesn't seem to always load properly: http://www.socketmouth.com/images/felinuszcomputerheatspotRGB.jpg

This is a hand-drawn photo trace/interpretation, of my own computer.

EDIT: To get the pictures to load in this thread, refresh the browser window after everything has loaded the first time.
 
Last edited:
Here is the original photo.

felinuszcomputeroriginalRGB.jpg



Here's the image link, the image doesn't seem to always load properly: http://www.socketmouth.com/images/felinuszcomputeroriginalRGB.jpg

My big gloss black watercooled monster in all its glory :)

I may as well list my cooling specs.

Loop # 1 (CPU cooling loop): Cascade Waterblock, Swiftech MCP600 Waterpump, Two Black Ice Extreme Radiators in Series, Four 120mm AOC Evercool Aluminums on the Radiators, and a T-Line.

Loop # 2 (GPU cooling loop): Maze 4-1 Waterblock, 172W/24V peltier on 22V, , Iwaki MD6-Z Waterpump, Chevette Heatercore Radiator, One Panaflo M1A on the Radiator, and a T-Line.
 
Last edited:
It's probably because they're CMYK JPEGs. I'll change them to RGB and try again.
 
Thanks :).

It's kinda peculiar, and "sparse" at glance, but it's supposed to be building on the design concepts pioneered by the Bauhaus school in Germany :).
 
pwnt by pat

Nice pic, messy comp I hope you clean up when you get my board all set up.

That's one thing that I'm not happy about in how the picture turned out; the computer is actually quite cleanly wired and such, with *everything* sleeved, and routed tightly along the case panels. It looks really random, messy, and disorganized in the picture unfortunately, the depth perception is thrown off. The airflow from the front fans is pretty much straight through the case; no wiring gets in the way (lots of hidden wire clamps).

That big jumble of wires in the middle is all actually clamped to the back panel of the case :)

Your board'll give everything an even more lovely and unified red color :) :D (when it gets here).


...3 HC's and 2 pumps for 2 blocks? wow...

Two loops is the watercooling way of the future, seriously :santa2:. Having isolated water for your two different blocks is great, the GPU and CPU temperatures don't affect each other at all, as they each have their own water base. This is particularly effective when you have a peltier on one of the blocks, because you can dump all that heat into the water without killing your other block's water temperatures.


It looks like ... something Darth Vader would use.

Thanks :p.


wow, that's awesome, haha, where did you get those shrouds for the heatercores you have in the front?

They're made by a company called 'Coolingworks'. Pretty nice shrouds, they glow under UV too.
 
Dual loops has the reassurance that each loop will not be affected by the other heatsource, IE more stable temps.

My board still isn't there? I swear it was garenteed 3-5 days. Maybe customs problems?

Oh, and I like the red with blue coolsleeves. It's different in a good way. Is that tec on the gpu? I didn't see at first but then I saw how you have the Iwaki on the gpu loop and what appears to be a huge neoprene foam block on the back of the video card but no foam around the gpu block.
 
Nope, no drawing pad. I used only a crummy Microsoft Optical Mouse, and my rock-steady hands ;). I really need to get a pad though, I think I'm developing Carpel Tunnel Syndrome in my wrists.


Senater_Cache

hey felinuz....why not plumb the iwaki into the cpu loop? what type of iwaki is it...cant imgine it weaker than a mcp600

It's an Iwaki MD-6Z. A bit weaker than the MCP600 pressure-wise, but more than adequate for a single GPU waterblock that doesn't really need much pressure to perform well. I'm considering sticking a beefier pump in there to replace it, to see if improved pressure makes a signifigant difference.


pwnt by pat

My board still isn't there? I swear it was garenteed 3-5 days. Maybe customs problems?

Oh, and I like the red with blue coolsleeves. It's different in a good way. Is that tec on the gpu? I didn't see at first but then I saw how you have the Iwaki on the gpu loop and what appears to be a huge neoprene foam block on the back of the video card but no foam around the gpu block.

Probably customs, computer parts have taken their time at the border many times before, I'm not worried :).

The waterblock itself doesn't need to be insulated; only the coldplate, and the area around the waterblock-card contact (where the coldplate is touching the GPU core) need insulation; as these areas get below ambient temperatures, which causes condensation. The waterblock itself is actually quite hot to the touch because of all the heat being dumped off of the overvolted GPU core and peltier; no condensation worries at all ;).


Senater_Cache

interesting...what made you deceide to go dual loop instaed of a series of pumps??

pwnt by pat

Dual loops has the reassurance that each loop will not be affected by the other heatsource, IE more stable temps.

You nailed it about the dual loops - having two loops means your waterblocks aren't sharing water, and as such, aren't sharing heat. So my GPU doesn't cause my CPU to heat up in any way, and vice-versa.


Thanks for all the comments guys :)
 
My Processor currently loads at 43 Degrees celcius (the maximum that I've seen at this speed), at 225 X 12 2700 MHz, 1.925V, with an ambient temperature that stays around 25 degrees celcius.

This is according to my NF7-S's very questionable temperature probe, which changes by a good ten degrees celcius up or down with a different BIOS, and which reads by as much as 5 degrees differently up or down after every reboot :rolleyes:.

I really don't know what my CPU temperatures are actually like, because this board's temperature probe is just terrible. My load temperature could actually be +/- 10 degrees of what the probe says, for all I know :(.


My GPU loads at a fairly consistant 20 degrees celcius below ambient, with the peltier on 22V. This according to my Enermax temperature probe, which has proven be quite accurate, in all the testing I've done with it.
 
Back