Crazy Jayhawk
09-09-01, 01:37 AM
If you're using a rheostat to control fan speed like I am, you know that it becomes quite warm when turned down. Some of you may never experience this problem, but this is an overcomplicated solution, my trademark. :)
Basically, this involves affixing an HSF to the back of the rheostat. A resistor is added to the HSF live wire because the fan by itself will probably be almost unaffected by the resistance change in the rheostat. I'm not sure how many ohms you'd need.
How does it work? Simple. When you turn the dial, the two outer terminals change in opposite directions. Turn the fanbus voltage all the way up and you won't need much cooling for the rheostat. The HSF will almost stop with the proper resistor installed.
Turn the rheostat way down and you'll need to dissipate all that heat. When the fanbus is turned way down, the HSF is turned up, and vice versa.
This might work and it might not. And to prevent the rheostat terminals from contacting the case, there's a simple solution. Get heat shrink tubing large enough to fit over the terminals and you can effectively insulate them from the case metal.
Basically, this involves affixing an HSF to the back of the rheostat. A resistor is added to the HSF live wire because the fan by itself will probably be almost unaffected by the resistance change in the rheostat. I'm not sure how many ohms you'd need.
How does it work? Simple. When you turn the dial, the two outer terminals change in opposite directions. Turn the fanbus voltage all the way up and you won't need much cooling for the rheostat. The HSF will almost stop with the proper resistor installed.
Turn the rheostat way down and you'll need to dissipate all that heat. When the fanbus is turned way down, the HSF is turned up, and vice versa.
This might work and it might not. And to prevent the rheostat terminals from contacting the case, there's a simple solution. Get heat shrink tubing large enough to fit over the terminals and you can effectively insulate them from the case metal.