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Could someone with a whitewater and ic7 take some pics

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Actually from reading the install guide here on the forums, im not the only one who had this problem. Edward2 had the same problem, there is a mosfet right where the plate goes that grounds out and makes the board die. He solved it by putting electrical tape on the bottom of the plate. Abit didnt follow the exclusion zone.
 
Looking for shorts after putting those plates on is standard. If you shorted something, don't blame it on Abit or D-tek. NEVER assume!
 
sunrunner20 said:
Looking for shorts after putting those plates on is standard. If you shorted something, don't blame it on Abit or D-tek. NEVER assume!
Abit didnt follow the exculsion zone. It wasnt me that put a mosfet where one isnt supposed to be. And Dtek claiming my retailer switched out the parts was bull****. It was my fault yes and I take the blame for it.
 
I’m not pointing the blame at any one person. To me everybody is equally at fault, Abit for apparently not fallowing some sort of keep out zone, D-tek for not testing for compatibility properly, and the user for not checking for shorts. Everybody makes a mistake sometime. Its is unfortunate when a chain of them can fry a system. I was pointing out your error in the hopes of your watching out for shorts better in the future. I've made my fair share of mistakes.
Nothing personal, ok? :)
 
I didnt take it personally. It was my first attempt at watercooling and I screwed it up. That was 5 months ago and Ive just now decided to try again so I was looking for suggestions on how to keep from doing it again.
 
Ok, when first putting together the system you need to put it together out of the system and run it for 24 hours, then install it in your system and test it in your system for 24 hours. When testing it in your system, you need to make sure to have NO power flowing inside the system, unplug the PSU and then turn the computer on. That is to remove the majority of the remaining power in the PSU. To run the fans on the water cooling setup use an old power supply.
Next, when installing things like the back plate for new heatsink/waterblock always check for shorts. You should also check for shorts whenever you place something metal on/near the motherboard or any other computer component.
The hoses on the water cooling setup should also be held on with some sort of clamp, most people use standard hose clamps. Others use some sort of wire tie (I don't recommend using those) or some other type of hose clamp.

The main thing about water cooling, and any other computer activity is
research and double check everything.
 
I did all of that. I ran it for almost a week outside the comp because of paranoia. The only problem I had was the whitewater mounting plate. I used hose clamps are everything else. The plate just shorted out across that mosfet. Im going to try some electrical tape on the bottom of the plate.
 
Personally, I would find some sort of rubber pad like they should have on the bottem of the metal plate. But, some electrical tape should work fine.
 
the way the plate goes on there is almost no clearance between it and the motherboard. Any higher and there wouldnt be contact. Although the foam that used to come in motherboard boxs might be a good idea.
 
The type of rubber pad I was speaking of is like a 6x6" square that you cut to size(I used to have some, don't know where to buy them) and is <1mm thick.
 
I honestly don't know how well some foam will work. You could probably try putting it on there and use pressure from your hands (be very careful how you do this) to see how well it survives the compression.
 
Yeah the compression was something I was just thinking of. It doesnt hold up all that well. Im going to try that slim rubber pad idea. I think the hobby store nearby has some for RC cars. They use it to dampen vibration for the servo electronics
 
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