View Full Version : cooler broke
ok i just got this pos and as u can see the evap is wrapped around the canister, well i tried to get it off of it to set it into the water and well it was soldered on , so i accidently put a hold in one of the lines as i was breaking it loose, its a pin hole , very small, can i just solder it and it be fixed, gas did leak out, like for 2-3 secs, is that long enough for all of it to come out or is there more in there?? and when i get it recharged whats the best gas to put in this, im not looking for something -50c or anything , somthing to keep me below 10c load
http://server3.uploadit.org/files/existz-cooler1.JPG
http://server3.uploadit.org/files/existz-cooler2.JPG
matttheniceguy
11-24-04, 06:49 PM
Hey iMod,
Welcome to the Forums
I think we need a little more information here. First of, yes, you did let the refrigerent out. You can fix it, but not by soldering. You need to braze the hole shut. Brazing is similar to soldering, but is much stronger and involvers higher temperatures.
You will have to get the system recharged. What refrigerent you get put in depends on a few things. The most inportant is what type of oil is in the compressor, as some refrigerents go with some oils, and others go with other oils.
Any informantion on the type of refrigerent that was in the system before (it should say on the compressor) would be good, as well as info on the rest of the system, and what you are trying to do with it. Water chiller? direct die?
sandman001
11-24-04, 09:29 PM
What markings are on the compressor? You'll need to get it recharged, and brazed shut as matt said above.
Also, while you are at it, you might want to get a different condensor, one like that isn't meant for high heat loads.
ill scope out the compressor tommarow, and yeah the condensor sucks, do u all have any recommendations on a condenser?? i need something small, to fit in a case. also im gonna use it as a chiller for now, maybe got DD after i get use to all this refregiation **** :)
sandman001
11-26-04, 01:50 PM
if you have any refridgeration stores around you, hit them up. They'll have a ton of different condensors.
ive got a friends dad that is HVAC got his own business and everything, ill hit him up :) but im still working on the cooler, seems theres alot of **** on the compressor, where its been setting so long, the stuff barley wants to come off , when it gets cleaned enough to read it ill be back
Aphex_Tom_9
11-26-04, 09:22 PM
heh, i hate dirty looking compressors, they dont inspire confidence...
ok i think im gonna go DD with this, buttttt im confused on the block part, dont understand how evap hose runs to block and captube stuff, can someone help me out :( still workin on compressor, should update later on tonite
matttheniceguy
11-28-04, 09:52 PM
It's all to do with the phase change system. Low pressure gas enters the compressor and is compressed to a much higher pressure and temperature. It then goes through the condensor where heat energy is removed and it condenses into a liquid. The high pressure liquid is then forced through the cap tube and into the evaporator, which is sitting on the cpu. As the liquid exits the cap tube and goes into the evaporator, the pressure drops way down, causing the liquid to boil and evaporate, which sucks up lots of energy and makes the evaporator get nice and cold. The evaporated low pressure gas then goes back to the low pressure side of the compressor and starts the cycle agan.
Here are some good links for making your own direct Die system:
Tools (http://www.vr-zone.com/index.cgi?i=713&s=1)
Guide (http://www.vr-zone.com/index.cgi?i=714&s=1)
ok i have figured out it uses R12 gas , is this a good thing or bad thing to getting it refilled?? i have understood they used this in car ac's? now when i make my evap on the DD i mill out my block and then the evap line goes in the block and the cap tube sets in the block, so i want to make it where the gas stays in there as long as possible right??
matttheniceguy
11-29-04, 05:04 PM
The refrigerent enters the evaporator (block) as a liquid throug the cap tube. It then evaproates to a gas, causing it to suck up lot's of energy. You want all this evaporation to occur inside the block so that the block will get as cold as possable. Most evap block designs look essentially like a waterblock. You want lots of surface area. You also want to put the return line on the top of the block so that liquid will not be able to get to it. The liquid will pool in the bottom of the block while it evaporates. Spiral patterns work well for this as the liquid will pool in several places, escically right ablove the core.
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