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Jbroad572
12-02-04, 09:19 PM
Ok, here is my rig:
http://broadways5th.com/scgi-bin/The%20Black%20Avenger/wc%20case.JPG
http://broadways5th.com/scgi-bin/The%20Black%20Avenger/wc%20case2.JPG
http://broadways5th.com/scgi-bin/The%20Black%20Avenger/wc2.JPG
http://broadways5th.com/scgi-bin/The%20Black%20Avenger/gpu%20wc.JPG
http://broadways5th.com/scgi-bin/The%20Black%20Avenger/lower%20window.JPG

Right now at stock settings I'm idling at 35-37c. Before with stock hsf I was right at 38-40 idle. Didn't get to test it under load on hsf though. Under load at stock settings my temps go to 40-41c under load. I tried overclocking last week and my temps went up dramtically. I pumped my voltage up to 1.65 and overclocked my cpu to about 2585mhz, ran Prime95 and my temps were at 60c and above. I read that's not good so I shut it down. It's sad that I saw people on air getting lower temps (50's under load) with the same setup. My PWMIC temp is 41c and my system temp is 37c at the moment (according to Smart Gaurdian). That doesn't sound too good, does it? I hear a little whine out of my setup and the sound can go up or down. It sounds kind of like when you feel a small bottle with water. As the water rises to the top the sounds goes higher and higher. It will do that and then drop.
My loop is pump>cpu>gpu>rad>t-line> pump.

I used just a smidget of AS5 on the cpu. The 6800gt temps are pretty solid and stay at about 46c it's oc'ed to 431/1.17.

Any ideas or suggestions? I'm using distilled water, VW antifreeze and deep blue dye (so they say :))

sunrunner20
12-02-04, 09:31 PM
Have you tried reseating the CPU waterblock?

greenman100
12-02-04, 09:39 PM
I'd like tp see how you mounted the block, and how much AS5 you used

Jbroad572
12-02-04, 09:47 PM
I'd like tp see how you mounted the block, and how much AS5 you used
What do you mean, how I mounted it? I followed the directions, except I couldn't get it on with the plastic washers, so I left those off. Should I take off the block again? What's the best way to go about that if I have to do it again? I used about the size of a rice grain and then twisted the block side to side. Does that mean I need to drain the system :)? Forgive the noob questions, but just trying to figure it all out.

Jbroad572
12-03-04, 02:49 AM
Ok, guess I don't need to drain the system to remount the cpu block, but when I redo it what exactly do I need to look for to make sure it's done correctly?

jackrungh
12-03-04, 03:14 AM
I used about the size of a rice grain and then twisted the block side to side.


:bang head

Am I hearing you correctly? You used a twisting motion on the block to smooth out the AS5 ON THE CORE?

Put the rice grain on the core and use a credit card to spread an even, thin layer across its entire surface. The only motion the block should enjoy is a careful lowering down and fastening upon the core. Many people utilized the rice grain method with the force of the block smoothing it out. I personally like the assurance of a pre-covered core, buyt no one i know who uses the force of the block twists it or rocks it to smooth it out. If you did that you may have spread the paste out of essential contact areas and done yourself a disservice.

Good luck.

Bugsmasher
12-03-04, 08:26 AM
It looks to me like the both the GPU block/CPU block tubing run as well as the CPU block/Pump tubing run are both most probably exerting a downards torque on your CPU block. As Sun said I would probably reseat the CPU block as well as come up with some sort of bracing for the tubes temporarily. Its possible that the block is somewhat out of true to the pressure of the tubing.

BTW your system looks good ;)

By bracing I would simply utilize the 'shelf' at the bottom of the m-board area and place something on it to hold the lead from the GPU 'up'. This is only temporary but after a lil testing you will be able to tell if the stress exerted by the tubing may be the culprit.

eduncan911
12-03-04, 09:54 AM
:bang head

Put the rice grain on the core and use a credit card to spread an even, thin layer across its entire surface. The only motion the block should enjoy is a careful lowering down and fastening upon the core. Many people utilized the rice grain method with the force of the block smoothing it out. I personally like the assurance of a pre-covered core, buyt no one i know who uses the force of the block twists it or rocks it to smooth it out. If you did that you may have spread the paste out of essential contact areas and done yourself a disservice.

Good luck.This is EXACTLY what I did (from common sense). :D

Actually I used an old Insurance card, which is the same as acredit card. But I put on about the amount of two or three grains of rice. Yep, I had extra on the card when I was done but I was sure I covered the entire core completely.

I'd start with it in the center and use the card to pull it to one side. Then use the excess on the card to apply in the same motion (from one side to another) until I covered as much as I could from that direction. Then I'd switch directions by 90 degrees and work on that. Repeating the 90 degree work around until the entire core was covered with just enough to cover the entire core.

The thickness? Fairly thin! But very smooth when I am done, completely covering the entire core. No grooves or pockets. As smooth as a baby's butt. :D

It also helps that the LGA775 socket no longer requires that 40 to 50lbs of force like all previous sockets from the Heatsink & Fan for the chip for hte socket (hence, no "Squeezing" motion any longer for the compound!). The LGA775 socket now has that special clamp-like socket. So now the waterblock/heatsink sits easily on the CPU. No more forcing or heafty huge clips! But you have to take measures now to spread the compound manually.

philippmike
12-03-04, 10:04 AM
Are those temps with the case open?

philippmike
12-03-04, 10:44 AM
My suggestions...

Make sure all the bubbles are out of the radiator. It is best to elevate the T above the radiator as bubbles travle to the highest point in the tubing.

I looks like you have no fans blowing out the bottom (under the PS) but by the pics, I cant tell for sure. Having the heater core that close to the PS could be causing it to heat up.

Also are the fans on the radiator 35 or 38mm deap? A deaper 38mm fan can help as they generally produce more air pressure.

Again...just my thoughts...disreguard at your leasure

Ancient_1
12-03-04, 01:08 PM
As far as I can tell he did the AS the right way for his CPU. When he removes his block to reseat it he will be able to tell if it was making good contact with the CPU (if it has a nice even thin flat round area of as5 on both the CPU and WB.
Application Instructions for Premium Silver Thermal Compound (http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm)
I do think that it very well could be the contact of the WB and CPU since there is such a raise in temps from idle > load > OC load. He could put at high load and check the temp of the water (if it goes to over 60° that quickly he should be able to feel warmth in the water by just touch) and know the problem is elsewhere. My water is a lil warm from having 3 blocks and less than ideal rad setup (runs 10~12°F over ambient) but barely feels warm, if it were another 10° warmer it would deffiinantly feel warm and would be noticable to the touch.

ls7corvete
12-03-04, 01:34 PM
Hehe, what did I tell you about those Idle temps being meaningless ;)

Try things with the side of the case off, that will tell you if its because of your mounting or the lack of airflow in the bottom portion of the case.

BTW you dont need to drain and refill to remount, if your carefull.

Jbroad572
12-03-04, 02:16 PM
Yea, you told me that :) It's just that when I pushed my cpu to what others were on air my temps were worse. So, just want to make sure I am getting the best results I can before I start trying to update my WC setup. I took off the panel already and the idle temps are 1-3 degrees lower (changing every second). Will try to remount later on.

sunrunner20
12-03-04, 04:52 PM
Your heater core still might be recirculation air. I noticed that your heater core is blowing air out that window, but where is it drawing air in from?

Jbroad572
12-03-04, 05:02 PM
Your heater core still might be recirculation air. I noticed that your heater core is blowing air out that window, but where is it drawing air in from?
There is a 120mm fan in front pulling air in and also, atm both side panels of the case have been removed

ls7corvete
12-03-04, 08:48 PM
Look at the bright side, you got an OC outa your cpu and your setup still has room for improvement :D

kjeeks3337
12-06-04, 10:14 PM
I have same board the temps on those boards r off by 10 c + dnt trust them even with bios upgrade

Jbroad572
12-09-04, 06:39 PM
Ok, finally got around to reseating my cpu and the idle temps dropped to 30-33c (watching after a few mins 30-31c). When I looked at my cpu and waterblock the as5 looked as though it were burnt or something, definitely not on evenly. I cleaned it all off, put about a half of a grain of rice (bb size) placed my waterblock on, twisted slightly about a degree or 2 each side, once. Last time I twisted far more than that. This time I read the instructions :p. After that I screwed everything back in.

While doing this, I spilled water on my mobo, I panicked, then I thought about all the threads I had read of others who had done this, so I cleaned it up with a papertowel, then went back over it with alcohol and all is good for now. I will test out load temps later on.

I am still at stock speed though, no overclocking as of yet.