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Time to put my modding skills to the test once again (couple questions too)

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FyreDaug

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2004
Location
Saskatoon, SK
Well I was typing a big post, but IE sucks so it lost everything I was typing :bang head .

But to summarize I am working on another project for the carputer which some of you know about and have been following.

Now originally my plan was to get some steering wheel controls from the local salvage yard, but 3 weeks later I have no luck. So my next (unique) option is to use an old gamepad.

Victim: Microsoft Sidewinder Gamepad (gameport plug)

I intend to wire each button through an old keyboard of mine (Logitech internet navigator)
I plan on using the following button config (unless anyone says it wouldnt be a good idea and has any other suggestions for configuration, but note it can be changed "on the fly" anyways, so its not really a big deal.)
Picture for reference of Sidewinder
msgampd.gif

Button config on the pad is like this, the MODE button will not function like it would with the gamepad, it will be a button like the rest of them (ish..)
Code:
      z  c
   y  b
x  a

My original config idea:
Left/right: Back/Next in playlist
Up/Down: master volume control
Start: Start winamp/bring it to front (you can bring winamp to the front by running its exe)
Mode: Toggle Shuffle
Select: Start visualization
L/R: Seek (5sec) back/forward
A: Play/pause
B: Stop
C: <spacebar>
X: Playlist 1 (which is all my music sorted by name)
Y: Playlist 2 (which is all my music sorted by folder/title, so each individual cd is in the order it would be if played off the cd)
Z: Esc button

Most importantly I should explain how I'm going to do this, and its rather simple but there are a few complications.
First off I will be taking the keyboard and gamepad apart. Since a button (on anything really) is just a bridge between 2 points (thus completing a circuit) will allow windows or whatever to detect a button has been pushed, and associate the proper key to it. I am just advancing on that idea. They keyboard will be all taken apart, but hidden somewhere. There will be wires leading up to it that basically go like this (sorry about the bad picture, it was quick).
attachment.php
(the attached file)

Remember though, the gamepad will not be actually connected to anything, well except the keyboard. The keyboard USB will be plugged into the motherboard, so therefore the buttons being pressed on the gamepad will trigger the buttons on the keyboard, and nothing else.

Now for the questions
Please note that I do know that I could find these solutions on my own, however I have limited stuff available to me right now. I do not have my car, or the required peripherals with me right now so all I can do is ask. If you know the answer, please let me know!

1) Will windows support (and work 100% properly) with 2 keyboards? 1 being a wireless logitech access keyboard and the other being a usb internet navigator keyboard, pictures for reference, first one being wireless but with no mouse.
830.gif

824.gif

2) Will my iTouch software work with both keyboards? The wireless one has an f-lock button which allows keys f1-f12 to have a different function, nulling the actual F function unless the lock is turned on. The internet navigator (bottom) does not have the f-lock (some do, but not this one. My one I'm typing with right now has the f-lock but this secondary one doesnt) and it has standalone media buttons. Will the play on the 2nd work with the software installed for the first? It is the same software regardless of which keyboard it is, both are the same download off of logitech.com
3) Is there a limit to the length of wire you can use when wiring up a keyboard button? Like my explanation above of what I'm doing, as long as its bridging a contact it can be meters away and still make contact right? After all it is electronics, and a bridge is a bridge.
 

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But would I get the OSD when I hit buttons? I dont think so, I need the itouch software for that. I will check it out though. Thanks for the uber quick reply.
 
FyreDaug said:
But would I get the OSD when I hit buttons?
You could try a couple plugins and find out. Another option is to use a programmable remote.

You can't "rewire" a keyboard easily since the keys are laid out on a printed carbon membrane. There's nothing to solder onto.
 
You may be overlooking something, I can easily push the buttons with my finger, with a screw or by dropping a staple on them. All I need to do is use thin wire and maybe even hot glue it on. No need to solder, well because it wont work and I knew that already.

Maybe other KB's are layed out differently but heres 3 pics of the one I just ripped apart. The little attachment thing I pulled off because it was constantly scrolling and I didnt want to restart yet :p (I did restart and it works fine)

EDIT: And I plan to use that attachment too, I will fabricate up a longer cord/ribbon for it and mount that by my steering wheel. The scroll up/down for volume control, push it in for play/pause and the 2 buttons are seek forward and seek back. Just need to figure out how to get the software to do it. Hopefully it can, it would be a lifesaver. I may even be able to use it as a global hotkey in winamp. We'll see.
 

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Microsoft = Crack Addicts

I've come to the conclusion that microsoft gamepad builders are on crack. Just the way this gamepad is made, it doesnt make sence.

From my understanding the buttons are just like those in my photoshop little diagram there, and theres a space (clearly visible) between the "bridge" and when the button comes down it contacts them both. Which it does.

However in this gamepad ALL of the buttons are actually pressed all the time and when the button comes in contact with both of the 2 contact points of the bridge, the resistance changes slightly when it is bridged. It is still a constant connection regardless of the button pushed in or not, its just the resistance that changes when the button is tapped, or help in.

Why did they do this? Its ridiculous. So now I have a bunch more work to get this game pad to do what I want. Basically I am "sawing" the small connection on the PCB so there is no connection what so ever, even if the button is pushed, it wont bridge anything because there is another bridge open.

Right before the new bridge I made I will be soldering a new wire (which I got from a phone line by the way lol, cheapest way out) and one where the initial connection is. Bah I'll just make a new pic (attached)
 

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Sorry for triple post but I have another question.

I will be powering an LED inside the gamepad (there is a yellow one in there now, but it WILL be a blue one) which voltage line in the USB should I use? 3v or 5v? I'm sure it doesnt really matter, I still need either a 50ohm or 145ohm (depending on which voltage I use) resister and the LED. Any reason I shouldnt use a specific one? I'm leaning towards the 3V, because LED doesnt need much power, so why waste it in a resister.
 
Just letting you guys know I have actually started on this, I put it off for the longest time but it's coming along nicely, I just need some sort of clamp for the keyboard piece to make sure the wires are firmly connected to the keyboard layout, since I cant solder I need something to put pressure on it. Any ideas on what to use? I will need quite a few, so the cheapest solution here is the best, I'm even considering a couple other ideas with stuff around the house, but I dont know how well it'll work.

I'll keep up with pics on this.
 
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