Need tips on cooling this rig down with air only!!!

[TUK101]

Hey, I need some tips on getting the temps down in my case while sticking with air cooling. I have a Goldengate 40 hsf on top of my Celeron 800 processor. It isnt always stabile at 133@1066 OC. I have mounted a 4 in. fan to the side of my case blowing out, and another 4in. fan on the top blowing down. I also have a 4 in. fan at the front of the case blowing toward the back. I have all the slot covers off the back of the case to help draw cool air in as well. Would getting a larger fan on the top of the case help? And does that ducting that I keep seeing advertised on these forums work? All that I need to do here is drop another couple of degrees to maintain stability while OC'ed. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I really dont want to go with evaperative cooling here.:D

[VashTheStampede]

Assuming the main goal here is just CPU cooling and stability. I haven't heard the Goldengate mentioned much of anymore. I would suggest one of the following HSFs:

Thermalright SK-6

Swiftech MC462-A Rev1 (If you got the cash)

Alaska Silver Mountain

Gladiator

Vantec CCK-6035D

Also suggest putting some, or some more, Artic Silver 2 (AS2) on the current heatsink and see if it makes a difference.

As for the 4in. (120mm fans), I would suggest picking up some form of ducting, from the intake to your heatsink. Automotive ducting or PVC pipe.. anything really that will keep the air directed at one area.

~RT~

[dimmreaper]

Your air-flow doesn't sound too balanced to me.

The rules of the game:

1. Always have nearly as much intake as exhaust, and vise-versa! Don't forget to count your PSU fan as an exhaust!

2. Heat rises, so put exhaust fans higher in the case, and intake fans lower in the case.

3. The more air-flow going through the case, the better(well until chassis temperature equals ambient room temperature anyway).

follow these three rules and you will rarely go wrong . . . .

[cool_hand_joe13]

For one thing top fans should never blow down they are used to exhaust hot air, change that fan to blow out. Second side fans don't blow out change that one to suck in and blow cool air onto the cpu. Front and rear fans cut the sceening away on your pc to get more air flow. Find the size of your fans and purchase a hole saw from a hardware store or Home Depot,ues this tool to cut the pc sreening. After that your temps should decrease a bit.If you really want to get crazy install 1 or 2 small dc blowers,slot coolers,and baycoolers. After that you are on your way .NO MORE TEMP PROBLEMS ..............

[MeJa]

Nice job putting the case fans in, now its time to turn the around and have them blow air the oposite ways as you have them now ;)
And how are your temperatures anyway?:mad:

[TUK101]

Originally posted by MeJa
Nice job putting the case fans in, now its time to turn the around and have them blow air the oposite ways as you have them now ;)
And how are your temperatures anyway?:mad:
Depending on room temps, generally in the 30C range. Sometimes when the room is warm, I get into the low 40Crange, and that is when the lockups start. If I am able to stay below 40C, I never have a lockup problem. So therefore this is why I made the post. BTW, I turned the fans around, like you said, and it has made a difference.:eek: :D

[Ice Czar]

Ducting a clean airflow to the hsf is well worth it. The most effective mod I know (for air cooling). And it costs little to nothing to do.

[TUK101]

Originally posted by Ice Czar
Ducting a clean airflow to the hsf is well worth it. The most effective mod I know (for air cooling). And it costs little to nothing to do. Cool, I ordered a 120 mm fan with a filter for it. Figured that I would want a filter over the fan that I used to blow air onto the heatsink, (wouldnt want to get it all plugged up with dust). ;)

[VashTheStampede]

Though remember, filters kill CFM. Especially filters of the foam mesh variety, which are used in BayCoolers and some case fans.

~RT~

[Ice Czar]

Im building a watercooling and experimental bong setup, but my temp aircooled solution employs a duct to the CPU.

Specs:
1.2 Athlon 1.74vcore stock clock
Old CoolMaster heatsink
Standard Thermal Grease (TIM)
4" diameter by 4" wide squirrel cage blower, on a A\C monopole motor, with a short square crossection duct to the heatsink (5")
(the opening in the blower case is square) The blower case shields the A\C motor, got this at a garage sale for $2 have no idea what its cfm is.

Its fed a mixture of room air and Air Conditioned Air.

Temps
Ambient 16C (ranges with the AC as it tries to keep the room at 60F it cycles on and off, I actually lack a sensor that is able to track the constantly shifting ambient, it averages to 16C with various bimetal thermometers)
CPU (currently half load) 22C
System 22C

Load can add an additional 2>4 degrees (four briefly\spikes under Prime95 beta)

The lowest underload (during a coldsnap) 20C
The highest 34C, Its wierd, sometimes the CPU temp will drop a degree below the system temp as well when the AC kicks in, the air is slammed into the heatsink and is then washed across the system sensor.

A typical AC induced cycle runs like this
CPU\SYS
21\22
22\22
23\22
23\23
24\23
25\23
then that AC kicks back in and it reverses, completes a "cycle" approx every 3 minutes. (Ive GOT to isolate that AC sensor :rolleyes: )

Id highly recommend blowers over axial fans, they deliver a cleaner less turbulent airflow and typically a high volume of air, as well as being MUCH quiter, its a RUSH of air not an annoying WHINE.

PS the AC also employs a squirrel cage (with a shroud from the condensor) its approx 6"dia by 3.5" wide cage and spins on a shared spindel that powers an axial fan (12"dia) on the otherside of the isulation that cools the radiator.

[Amedeo602]

Originally posted by RedneckTech
Assuming the main goal here is just CPU cooling and stability. I haven't heard the Goldengate mentioned much of anymore. I would suggest one of the following HSFs:

Thermalright SK-6

Swiftech MC462-A Rev1 (If you got the cash)

Alaska Silver Mountain

Gladiator

Vantec CCK-6035D

Also suggest putting some, or some more, Artic Silver 2 (AS2) on the current heatsink and see if it makes a difference.

As for the 4in. (120mm fans), I would suggest picking up some form of ducting, from the intake to your heatsink. Automotive ducting or PVC pipe.. anything really that will keep the air directed at one area.

~RT~

aren't the gladiator and the goldengate the same thing only with a different name???

[Balkoth]

I would suggest a Thermoengine HSF.

The most prominent seem to be:

a) the V60-4210
b) the V60-4225

The 4210 has a YSTech fan which gives around 15 CFM airflow @ between 3700 - 3800 rpm.

The 4225 has a Delta fan which gives roughly 35 CFM @ about 6500 rpm.

I recently upgraded from a rubbish old "stock" HSF to a 4225 and the temp. dropped around 15`C!!

If you want a quieter environment to work/play, then go for the 4210, cos the 4225 is pretty loud, although it gives SERIOUS cooling! :D

Make sure you use at least some form of thermal compound on your HSF, doesnt NEED to be Arctic Silver / ASII. Some old fashioned thermal paste does the job well enough for me. :)