Ready to Kill this MB

So after wasting all day on this POS, I still can't get it to work. No matter where I have the jumpers set the MB thinks the CPUs are 3.2s and thats just not going to work with 1.3v

Sometimes the MB runs for less than a second and powers down, sometimes it runs for 10 and then powers down. If I hold insert, I can get into BIOS, and then it powers down. I had it stable in the BIOS at one point, and it was running quite cool 22c so I was happy with that.

Some one please tell me where the jumpers go, I have read the MB manual so many times, and tried so many different things. I just don't get it.

Also, anyone that has modded 1.6LVs to 1.6v please tell me exactly what needs to be done. 12h to get nothing accomplished is unacceptable. So are the hold times at ASUS.

Any insight would be great, because Im about to trash this MB.

Ok, U-wire B2-B3, C2-C3, and D2-D3 each socket to get 1.6vcore. the jumpers try setting them on 2-4 and 1-3 for autodetect, or just try 1 jumper on 3-5. One of those settings should work.

also I'm sure you checked the CMOS jumper.

Don't plug anything else into the motherboard besides the RAM, vidcard, and 1 cpu. none of the usb headers either.

double-check the motherboard to case connectors (it shows a different number of pins in the book than the motherboard actually has, make sure you count from the right hand side following the pic on pg 2-33 of the user manual. the last two pins on the left connect vertically for the hdd LED)

Albigger said:

Ok, U-wire B2-B3, C2-C3, and D2-D3 each socket to get 1.6vcore. the jumpers try setting them on 2-4 and 1-3 for autodetect, or just try 1 jumper on 3-5. One of those settings should work.

also I'm sure you checked the CMOS jumper.

Don't plug anything else into the motherboard besides the RAM, vidcard, and 1 cpu. none of the usb headers either.

double-check the motherboard to case connectors (it shows a different number of pins in the book than the motherboard actually has, make sure you count from the right hand side following the pic on pg 2-33 of the user manual. the last two pins on the left connect vertically for the hdd LED)

Click to expand...

I had it running with 1 and then with 2 cpus. I thought that C3 needed to be insulated, am I wrong in that assumption? I also heard that it only needs to be done for CPU 1 is that true, or does it need to be done for both? Also do fans need to be plugged into the CPU fan headers? They are now, but I won't have any connected when its in my case.

Is there anyway to get 1.65v out of these CPUs?

I wish this MB had an LCD readout like my Abit does. Damn how I hate the beeps.

Am I the only one that thinks this is the worst manual ever?

I guess booting at 200 is not a bad thing, after the wire trick, Im just so frustrated with this thing.

Thanks.

Anyways, thanks for the tips. Please get back to me on the

Ok, you COULD insulate the C3 pin, but I haven't tried and U-wiring seemed so easy that it was proven to work if instead of insulating, you short C2-C3 instead.

As far as I know, you must do this for each CPU socket. I believe the board will run with different vcore's, but I don't see why'd you'd want to.

The only way to get more than 1.6V is to do a vcore mod, which I understand is some very difficult soldering. And I believe it after looking at the chips you must solder.

What kind of beep codes are you getting? Are you having ANY luck yet with getting past the BIOS?

I think the manual is OK, not great but not the worst. Any it still shows booting at 200?

Furthermore if you did somehow not insulate pin C3 all the way (not sure how hard it is , like I said I didn't even try it) then the chart atthis page indicates you would be trying to run 1.800 vcore, which the board doesn't provide more than 1.6. whenever I tried for more than 1.6 (i tried 1.65 and 1.675) it wouldn't even boot. maybe that's what you are experiencing?

When you were in bios what vcore did it say?


If at all possible if you are not too stressed etc.... I would redo the pin modes to B2-B3, C2-C3, and D2-D3 if you think that there's any chance that might have screwed it up. Or try just without any mods to boot at the default 1.3 vocre.

Im running the stock vcore. Im done with it tonight. Ill mess with it tomorrow when I get home.

{PMS}fishy said:

Im running the stock vcore. Im done with it tonight. Ill mess with it tomorrow when I get home.

Click to expand...

Dont bother. It sounds to me like you were scammed by an ewiz employee since alot of your information and accessories are missing. My advice is to scrap the mobo, RMA and either get your money back. Or get a replacement

Sentential said:

Dont bother. It sounds to me like you were scammed by an ewiz employee since alot of your information and accessories are missing. My advice is to scrap the mobo, RMA and either get your money back. Or get a replacement

Click to expand...

Woah - yeah if you have missing stuff then send it back. I ordered from ewiz and everthing came sealed in a package with the motherboard. the box looked slightly abused on the corners, but it worked fine.


Hope you get it working. Sometimes the best thing to do is to walk away for a while.

{PMS}fishy: Are we talking PC-DL? If so it sounds like your getting 200fsb with 16multi. If so you need to go back to both jumpers on the pins closest to the cpu's or the upper two pins if mounted in the case. The jumpers run verticaly if you don't have a manual. Then your going to need to do the v-core if you want to get the big overclock, I just u-wired B2-B3, C2-C3, D2-D3, NO INSULATION and I've got 1.6 v-core. Then I took the jumper farthest from the cpu's off, hold the delete key when booting and enjoy. My 1.6lv's are running at 2739mhz 24/7 doing seti.

skab said:

{PMS}fishy: Are we talking PC-DL? If so it sounds like your getting 200fsb with 16multi. If so you need to go back to both jumpers on the pins closest to the cpu's or the upper two pins if mounted in the case. The jumpers run verticaly if you don't have a manual. Then your going to need to do the v-core if you want to get the big overclock, I just u-wired B2-B3, C2-C3, D2-D3, NO INSULATION and I've got 1.6 v-core. Then I took the jumper farthest from the cpu's off, hold the delete key when booting and enjoy. My 1.6lv's are running at 2739mhz 24/7 doing seti.

Click to expand...

I THINK he is using the NCCH-DL, in which case the vcore mod is the same (I agree, don't insulate just u-wire), but on the NCCH the jumpers RUN HORIZONTALLY in a normally mounted case. I guess the manual isn't quite clear on that part.

Albigger said:

I THINK he is using the NCCH-DL, in which case the vcore mod is the same (I agree, don't insulate just u-wire), but on the NCCH the jumpers RUN HORIZONTALLY in a normally mounted case. I guess the manual isn't quite clear on that part.

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I can confirm that fishy is indeed using the NCCH-DL. I'm 100% sure.

{PMS}fishy said:

Im running the stock vcore. Im done with it tonight. Ill mess with it tomorrow when I get home.

Click to expand...

I suggest that you load a pipe with some good smelling herb and smoke it or get some good wine and drink it(don't drive:~)... give the computer a rest and maybe watch a movie... get something to eat... sleep a little and give the answer a chance to catch up with you... that's mine general advice for your modding problems...

As far as the NCCH-DL manual and jumpers and front panel, I've cursed this mobo a little also... I really wanted to USe the front panel LED for LAN activity... but I didn't get how to hook it all up, I even had split single female connectors and moved them around a little bit... I did settle for 2 IDE activity LEDs going on the front panel though... I plan to revisit that one someday later... the manual is about average to me, but they're all a little foreign to me... sometimes they make me laugh, as the translations make the wording funny :~)...

ANyway... not much help here for your technical problems... but I'm watching everything I can get on this motherboard now... OverClockers has already saved me a lotta grief with info that wasn't commonly known right off the bat(like the PCI-E/PCI-X thing:~)... not to mention your own help with my RAM problems...

OverClockers rocks...

PS... and the Overclockers.com Boinc SETI team rocks also(10th place world and moving up fast:~)... btw, Gemini did 37 work units today and despite all the problems and perils we're back on track to our goal(already 93rd place on the team:~)... perhaps the PAT kicked in and we're gonna really make some time now...

http://www.setisynergy.com/stats/teams.php?team=30199&project=sah

I pin modded them, and I still cant get this thing to boot. There are no jumpers on the MB now. I have tried every combo I can think of, it will only boot at 166 and 200, I have yet to see 100 or 133.

Sometimes it goes on and then off, other times will go on for 10 secs and shut off, and sometimes it will be up, and I will see it post, and then it goes off.

Im totally stuck here, Im about to give up on this set up all together.

Its kind of running. I can change things in the BIOS, and it will save them, but won't come back to life. Does not like warm reboots. Starting to realize that this is the only video card its going to get, and they are starting to play nice.

Im still pretty sure that this MB was used/returned.

Anyone with an NCCH-DL, when you got it, was the edge still on the PCB, or was that missing? Mine was missing.

This is what Im talking about.



Also neither ewiz or asus wants to take responsibilty for this being a bad MB, I refuse to pay return shipping, who should I make eat this one?

Did you buy from eWiz with some form of payment you can reverse? I'd call up my CC company and let them take of it.

Ken

That's a good suggetion Ken.


Mine came from ewiz and the edge in that photo was NOT on my motherboard either.

EDIT: And oh yeah - none of the three BIOS versions I have tried will let me warm reboot, they all require a cold boot from changing things in the BIOS. I think this part is a well known problem at least.

Maybe you should try the older tried and true PC-DL. I've had four of them, including one Newegg refurb and they've all been perfect. No stability or rebooting problems of any kind.

BTW, regarding pin C3 on those LVs, I just lop them off. I've setup 3 LV rigs, two with C1s and my current one with D1s and the Vcore mod always works when you lop off C3.

DaveB said:

Maybe you should try the older tried and true PC-DL. I've had four of them, including one Newegg refurb and they've all been perfect. No stability or rebooting problems of any kind.

BTW, regarding pin C3 on those LVs, I just lop them off. I've setup 3 LV rigs, two with C1s and my current one with D1s and the Vcore mod always works when you lop off C3.

Click to expand...

Well, C2-C3 worked.

All of a sudden the MB just started to work. I have no idea what I did, or what happened, or why it works not, and didn't before. Im going to keep a close eye on it, if it flakes again, it goes back. For now, it can stay.

By the way, running at 3.2ghz right now. Priming, Ill see how it goes.

{PMS}fishy said:

Well, C2-C3 worked.

All of a sudden the MB just started to work. I have no idea what I did, or what happened, or why it works not, and didn't before. Im going to keep a close eye on it, if it flakes again, it goes back. For now, it can stay.

By the way, running at 3.2ghz right now. Priming, Ill see how it goes.

Click to expand...

NICE! I hope you have no further problems and can truly enjoy the power of your new system.

I hope so too. I tried to jump up to 16x210 and it failed Prime right away.

Temps look great at 36/37 load. I wish I could give these more voltage.

Seeing how they were pulls, I take it they are pretty well broken in, but Ill see if I can't squeze more out of these.