View Full Version : Poor watercooling temps?
Well, everything is working, and has been for a few weeks now. I've been getting what I consider poor temperatures. my TB 1.33 @ 1.6 @ 2.15 volts is idling at 46c, and is at 51c under load. Is this normal? I've got a DD Maze2, DD cube, Mag7, and a mostly 1/2" tubing setup (have yet to switch the Maze2 barbs from 3/8"). I lapped my maze2 to a mirror finish, and put some AS between the tb and the block. I've got a 120mm YS-Tech sucking air out of the side of the case right above my GF2 and processor (hot air seems to reside there otherwise), a 120mm intake in the bottom front, and 2 120mm's on my radiator blowing air out. With the exception of reversing the radiator fans to suck air in, I'm at a loss for ideas. Could it be that my temp probe is misreading, or are these just the temps I should be getting? If this is normal, I think I may go for a pelt.
Warlord2
09-18-01, 08:01 PM
I dont think those are that bad of temps myself......
we need more info on your setup to get you an ansere to your
"Could it be that my temp probe is misreading, or are these just the temps I should be getting?" question
is your maze2 warm?
can you give us a reading about how warm your water is after the DD cube?
you could also try reseating maze2 or tighten the bolts a little more for better contact
dimmreaper
09-18-01, 08:21 PM
High-end Tbirds runn hot hot hot, especial with that much Vcore. But still your temps seem a bit high. You don't by chance have an ASUS motherboard do you? ASUS board report the temps higher than most other boards do. You might want to try lapping the CPU die if you've got big brass ones . . . .
Nope, mine are.. wooden i guess. Sorry, I didn't give all of my specs. I've got a epox 8K7A motherboard.. Ambient reads 26. The probe in the 8K7A's slug doesn't seem to touch my cpu die like my Abit KT7's did. Is this a problem? I'm thinking about ordering a compu-nurse.
After reading your setup this might sound stupid but wont heart! Are you using some Arctic silver, if not maybe that should help you a bit. and just like Dimmreaper said your voltage its pretty high so i guess you could spect those temps or a bit lower:mad:
What are your ambient and case temps? How are you measuring the CPU temps? Is one fan pushing and the other pulling air through the Cube? Does your Cube pull fresh air from outside the case or air from inside the case? What is the plumbing order of components in your watercooling?
Originally posted by Colin
What are your ambient and case temps? How are you measuring the CPU temps? Is one fan pushing and the other pulling air through the Cube? Does your Cube pull fresh air from outside the case or air from inside the case? What is the plumbing order of components in your watercooling?
To measure the temps, I'm just using the onboard sensors. The ambient ranges from 27c to 30c depending on room temperature. The 2 fans on the cube are pushing and pulling from inside to outside (could this be a major factor?). The plumbing order is pump->radiator->block->reservoir->pump
!-=sky=-!
09-19-01, 08:49 AM
the watercooling part i cant answer you because i have no knowledge of but
after you switch to watercooling the onboard probe wont be accurate because will be a lot less airflow going around the cpu therfore making the sensor make false reading resulting in a higher cpu temp
what you should do is buy a digital probe(something like compunurse or simliar)
hope that helped
Originally posted by dwango
Nope, mine are.. wooden i guess. Sorry, I didn't give all of my specs. I've got a epox 8K7A motherboard.. Ambient reads 26. The probe in the 8K7A's slug doesn't seem to touch my cpu die like my Abit KT7's did. Is this a problem? I'm thinking about ordering a compu-nurse.
Try raising that "slug" up for it to touch the back of the CPU & try to put a dab of ASII on it. This should get you a more consistent reading.
Originally posted by sonny
Try raising that "slug" up for it to touch the back of the CPU & try to put a dab of ASII on it. This should get you a more consistent reading.
I can't. On my Abit KT7, the legs on the sensor were long enough that it could bend up and make a good connection with the cpu. The legs on this one are short and if I bend them the sensor will only be further away from the CPU.
The 5C swing from idle to load has me puzzled. When I ran the same setup it was 17C. Perhaps a newer BIOS in your motherboard is not using the idle commands. I can tell you that I got the best temps with pump/block/radiator/reservoir.
Pushing an pulling is the way to run fans on the Cube. The second fan is worth about 3C at full load If your Cube is pulling air from inside your case, the performance will be limited to the temperature of the air inside the case. With good case ventilation, the temps in your case should be about 1C over ambient. Anything more than this will have a direct linier relationship to your radiators perfromance.
If you have one 120 intake at the bottom of the case, one 120 exhaust over your video card, the PSU exhaust fans and the two 120s exhausting air through the radiator, you will not have enough intake air to balance the exhaust. Your Cube could be starving for air. It may be worth reversing the 120 to blow on your video card and possibly add another intake fan.
Some of the Maze 2 blocks had the barbs seated so far in the block that they hamper the flow. It's possible that reseating the barbs may help your situation.
Hope this helps.
Originally posted by dwango
I can't. On my Abit KT7, the legs on the sensor were long enough that it could bend up and make a good connection with the cpu. The legs on this one are short and if I bend them the sensor will only be further away from the CPU.
I just noticed this after my last post. What motherboard are you using now? The thermistor measuring the air temp in the socket is going to compress temperature differences more than the KT7 series. This would help explain the 5C difference between full load and idle.
I'm using an ePox 8K7A+. In response to your first post, I used to have the 120mm side fan blowing in. I noticed that alot of hot air was resident above and around the video card/CPU, so i reversed the fan and actually dropped a few degrees.
This would mean your radiator may be starving for air. You may want to take the side off your case and see what happens to your CPU temps.
Vfrjim1
09-19-01, 12:03 PM
Email Dangerden, dano@dangerden.com , cost me $2 shipped for the 1/2 fittings for my Maze2, should help flow out.
Jim
I took the side off the case, and the temperature rose about 3 degrees. Also, I just emailed dano about those barbs. I'll see what he says. I'm going to order some quality silicone hose from somewhere also, because this nylon stuff from Lowes seems to kink alot.
mechsiah
09-19-01, 01:54 PM
I recommend 5/8th outer diameter hoses. I had the same kinking problem and it almost killed me. Nice thick hoses with that white mesh (don't know name).
As far as your cool, download Motherboard Monitor for a more accurate temp via sensor. Also, make sure that water block is nice and snug. If you've got the springs in properly and you do it evenly, you can really tighten it down.
Lastly, of after your changes you are down to say, 41C idle, you are not doing too bad. That V is pretty cranked.
mechsiah
09-19-01, 01:56 PM
Oh, one more thing- What are your temps when you're not OC'd?
with voltage at 1.85 i drop 10-12 degrees, so around 38-40
HotDogg
09-19-01, 03:47 PM
I'm not sure you should be too concerned you've got that CPU pretty stoked. Post an update after you get the new barbs.
Don't forget that the pump is a heat source so you want water to go direcly from the radiator output to your waterblock if you have a closed system.
How big is your radiator? If your fans don't completely cover it you might consider shrouding between the fans and radiator to get maximum air movement through the fins.
Originally posted by HotDogg
I'm not sure you should be too concerned you've got that CPU pretty stoked. Post an update after you get the new barbs.
Don't forget that the pump is a heat source so you want water to go direcly from the radiator output to your waterblock if you have a closed system.
How big is your radiator? If your fans don't completely cover it you might consider shrouding between the fans and radiator to get maximum air movement through the fins.
I've got a dangerden cooling cube:
http://www.dangerden.com/test/images/cooling_cube/boxster4.gif
i've got a 120mm on the front and back, they completely cover it.
Vfrjim1
09-19-01, 10:09 PM
I got some nice quality PVC tubing from a local marine supply, but they are online also, www.westmarine.com, here is a link to the hoses they carry, I bought the series 150 1/2" ID stuff, http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/CategoryDisplay?cgmenbr=201&cgrfnbr=550, $.79/foot, no kinking whatsoever.
Jim
mechsiah
09-21-01, 01:09 AM
38-40 without the volts... Hmm... That's a bit high for H2O cooling, but still acceptable.
I wouldn't let it bother you too much. I think you should get more air through the cube (if you could get it from outside the case, all the better).
Keep us posted- good luck.
Yes, I'm going to try reversing the two 120's on the radiator and see how that plays out.
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