alternative to JB weld?

[MadSkillzMan]

hey guys, for the longest time i was under the impression that JB weld, was literally like a solder you could use on a weak torch. I see now i was wrong.

I did a search on lowes and home depot.com, with no luck, is there any alternative? or is it there and theyre just retarded?

this is great because i am still doing ghettocomps copper cap blocks.

also, anyone know how it conducts heat? as in placing copper parts in the bottom of the cap. i can probably solder that no problem, im just wondering.

thanks in advance

EDIT: ill freak if you tell me bondo would work, i have a whole bucket out in the garage

[Borisw37]

I am a bit confused here, what are you trying to do exactly?
What do you need to glue together (attach, solder, join, etc...) ?

[MadSkillzMan]

ah, sorry about that.

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=328540&highlight=copper+cap

im not too knowledgable about bondo, alls i know is my gfs dad goes wild with it on his car

[Borisw37]

ok, now I understand what you are trying to do, but still a bit confused about what your questions / problems are.
The guy states that:
"The silver Solder, I got from Home Depot, cost me somewhere around $8.00 for a roll, some silver, no lead. I forget what the percentages were. I origionally used it for some plumbing projects at home."
He does mention using JB weld to assemble it, but I am not sure where exactly he used it. I would suggest useing solder, torch, and flux to make long-lasting, waterproof joints of solder parts.

[MadSkillzMan]

he used it between the copper cap, and the brass cap. i can see why youd do that, as the flux hardly adheares to the brass, thanks

[Craptacualr]

Yeah, plenty of torch heat with flux and solder will work on the brass. Takes a little more patience with the torch than copper ;)

[ghettocomp]

The insides (vanes)of that CopperCap waterblock were soldered in, the Brass top was carefully glued with the JBWeld. of course the Barbs were soldered on before anything else and adjusted (inside) so the center barb was just a little over 1/8" from the bottom, and the barb on the side was nearly flush with the brass top.

[MadSkillzMan]

alright, soldering copper will be easy, i knwo that.

yea im just gonna make the trip out to ace's hardware. ugh this is so aggervating, i wanted this done by jan 18th (when xmas break was over) i stopped cause i thought i needed to WELD, durrrr stupid me.

[LabRat23]

JB Weld is about as conductive as plastic. It also might degrade if kept wet. Use solder. Solder is proven to work well on copper and underwater.

[{PMS}fishy]

A. Bondo is a body filler, and not a glue.
B. JB Weld is the worlds greatest 2 part expoy.
C. If you want metal to stick to metal, it needs to be soldered, welded or brazed.

[MadSkillzMan]

what kinda temps do i need to braze brass? this is copper cap to brass cap.

damn i was going to get the guts to JB weld alluminum sheets around an old heatsink, and essentially make it a WB with help of more jb weld and silicone.

[Craptacualr]

If you use a propane torch and turn the flame up and point it properly for a little longer than you'd have to for copper then it'll braze. at the tip of the "inner flame" of a propane torch you get temps from 600-800F and that's traditionally enough to solder brass. with copper, you can get away with surface temps of around 400F which is why its easier with a propane torch. plenty of patience though and you can be all set with just a regular propane torch. using flux greatly speeds up the process

[Hoot]

Forget brazing, especially with a propane torch. I've tried with several different swirl torches, even MAPP gas, but with thick components, it's hard to get a reliable bond. Simple soldering with a torch is the easiest approach and done properly, will outlast your love for the block and/or processor family it is designed for. Practice on some scrap if you have any. It does not take much practice to get the feel for how much heat is enough and how to wet the copper and brass with the solder. As far as the two metals go, I find they solder equally easily and I've been doing it for 35 years and in the past 3 years, at least a dozen DIY water blocks. I do however prefer to use rosin cored solder. It's a little trickier to get right on large objects, but doesn't result in corrosion if not thoroughly cleaned off. For beginners, I'd recommend acid core, not solid core and brush-on acid flux though. Boil the block in water when you're done to make sure you have all the acid flux out from inside the cap where you can't reach it with a brush to clean it. I reitterate, practice on some scrap first and good luck.

Hoot

[MadSkillzMan]

hmm i really didnt know you could do copper to brass

[Electron Chaser]

hmm i really didnt know you could do copper to brass


Brass is a zinc alloy with a high content of, yes you guessed it copper. A little flux and solder and it will be almost like a family reunion. LOL

[Hoot]

I mistated that brazing was almost impossible with large copper parts and either a simple Propane or MAPP gas swirl torch. That is not correct. I was thinking of high silver content (>70%) brazing material. Common brazing (silver soldering) materials having roughly 50% Silver, like Silfos can braze at considerably lower temperatures than high silver content brazing material. Sorry for the misinformation.

Hoot