i need more advice

[Conaway]

so i've been getting alot of help from people on the fourms with picking out parts for my water cooling system. i need a little help deciding on some other parts too.

here's what i have decided on so far and why:
cpu block - http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=29_44&products_id=116
why - decent price and i want to be able to use it with my current athlon XP and an A64 i plan to buy later.

gpu block - http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=150&cat=0&page=1
why - if you read my other question i asked here, http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=377184 you'll see why i want a gpu block that is ati and nvidia supported.

radiator - what do you guys think about black ice radiators?
black ice pro-
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=3&cat=13&page=1
black ice extreme-
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=1&cat=13&page=1
i have been considering these two radiators, although i have been reading this forum page http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=229013 where in the radiator section it says you want a radiator with higher max head as opposed to one with higher flow. does anyone know of a good radiator with a decent volumetric flow, instead of one that just pushes water through really quickly?

the last thing i haven't decided on is a pump i like. suggestions would be nice. i am thinking about this one: http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=36&cat=23&page=1

lastly do any of you think that a fillport is necessary??

[inkfx]

I suggest you switch blocks, I think you could probably get better performance out of a Swiftech 6002, which are about $40-45.

[alinosa]

-i wouldn't get any block that only has thin plastic on the top... so that counts out the koolance. the swifty is an excellent choice, since all you need to change is the hold-down and you have a new-for-A64 block.
-The GPU block seems like a good choice. People here have them and get good results.
-i have the mcp650/D4 pump and love it. If you don't like or can't stand a mild high pitched whine, then you'll probably hate it. (it's on par with the fan from a 6800 on med to high)
-the radiator... i had a BIX and loved it, I have now a BIX3 and love it even more... i'd love it a whole lot more if it wasn't friggin' $120.00. For a fraction of the cost of a BIX or BIP rad, you can get a very clean looking heatercore and shroud that will perform as well as or better than a BIX or (especially) the BIP. If you're set on a BIX, you'll pretty much be satisfied with it.
-fillport isn't "necessary" but it will convenient. if you don't want to use a reservior, then all you need to do is cap your T-line with a brass plug that you can get from lowe's for like 40 cents.

and finally, i think there's a mix up in your original post about head vs flow rate... you have the idea right, but it applies more to pumps instead of radiators. i think it's pressure drop in radiators.

so, other than your cpu block your list looks really good. now buy it, build it, and post some pics.

good luck

[iceage]

I second the Swiftech recommendation. I'm using two of them on a dual xeon system and they're great. Good copper blocks. I also like the RBX block from danger den. Using it on my Prescott system. Good block. $53 at danger den.

The D4 pump is good but i've also heard good things about the Aquaextreme 50Z too. I use AC pumps as my rad is external, so my experience in DC pumps is thin.

[Conaway]

What would be some pros and cons of AC and DC pumps? Why would I want one or the other?

[Conaway]

-i wouldn't get any block that only has thin plastic on the top... so that counts out the koolance. the swifty is an excellent choice, since all you need to change is the hold-down and you have a new-for-A64 block.

ok, so you've convinced me not to ge the koolance block i guess for obvious reasons. copper base, plastic top, not a good mix.

from what i can tell it appears that all the swiftech blocks are essenitally the same just with different mounting hardware. so i could get this block http://www.jab-tech.com/customer/product.php?productid=2448&partner=froogle
and this mounting bracket http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=62 also here http://xoxide.com/koolancead.html and i should be ok, right?
just a reminder i picked that block b/c i have an athlon xp currently which i will upgrade to a 64.

EDIT: i found my answer - please feel free to comment anyway
Compatibility and upgradeability: one size fits all

* The 2.5" x 2.5" form factor enables the same block to be used with all current microprocessors in the Desktop and Server markets, including upcoming products expected to be released by major OEM's within the next 12 months.
* The inlet and outlet are ridged to provide superior sealing with hose clamp fittings.
* In many cases, the same block can be reused with different classes of processors, by simply swapping retainer plates, thus reducing the cost of ownership.

[bobmanfoo]

A/C pumps need to be plugged into a regular outlet, like the ones in your wall, D/C pumps use power from your psu molex

that koolance mounting bracket won't work with the mcw6000, swiftnets.com has the right mounting brackets in their online store

btw mcw6000 is for 3/8" ID tubing, mcw6002 is for 1/2" tubing

if you are getting the swiftech block you can use the one for athlon XPs for a64 later on, but can't do it the other way around since AXPs needs a stepped base

[Conaway]

edited, next post

[bobmanfoo]

http://swiftnets.com/store/category.asp?CatID=2
www.swiftnets.com

and take your time reading up on WCing, don't rush into buying anything yet as you will have you own personal preferences of what products to get once you get more familiar with WCing, since you seem new to this i wouldn't spend less than a week choosing what you want and dwelling on it

[Conaway]

A/C pumps need to be plugged into a regular outlet, like the ones in your wall, D/C pumps use power from your psu molex

that koolance mounting bracket won't work with the mcw6000, swiftnets.com has the right mounting brackets in their online store

btw mcw6000 is for 3/8" ID tubing, mcw6002 is for 1/2" tubing

if you are getting the swiftech block you can use the one for athlon XPs for a64 later on, but can't do it the other way around since AXPs needs a stepped base

ya i know i can use that block with an athlonxp first then an A64, that's what i plan. i found the mounting braket on their website. thanks for your help! :attn:

[bobmanfoo]

np, time for bed for me... isn't it about 4am over there? lol

[Conaway]

http://swiftnets.com/store/category.asp?CatID=2
www.swiftnets.com

and take your time reading up on WCing, don't rush into buying anything yet as you will have you own personal preferences of what products to get once you get more familiar with WCing, since you seem new to this i wouldn't spend less than a week choosing what you want and dwelling on it

i am actually on my 5th straight day of research, i also did some research last summer, but lost interest. yes i am new to watercooling, however i know alot more now. i appreciate the help. i'll put a link in my next post with what i plan on buying. i think i've narrowed everything down.

[Conaway]

well, technically with daylight saving now, it's 5am...i ended up taking a nap from about 930-12, so i am kind of awake now. what a time to take a nap, huh?

[alinosa]

the factor that convinced me to change to a DC powered pump was the power cord... an AC power cord is thick and ugly. It's also hard to route inside your case, not to mention it, or your case needs to be modified so you can run the plug outside your case or piggy-backed to your psu. A DC powered pump is just more convenient to use, provided you have a psu with a beefy 12V rail. No mods necessary, just route it, and plug it in.

[Conaway]

i've got a 480w thermaltake, what do you mean by "rail"?

my next question to anyone...how much water typically cycles through a system? i am getting this coolant http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=77 which treats 80oz of water, is that enough?

i plan on putting this uv-dye in the water to react with my black light
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=80

also, for this tubing, it says "coils are marked at 3 foot intervals for easy measuring" http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=58
does that mean each coil is $2.35 per 3ft?

do i need to put clamps everywhere i have a tube connecting to something, or just at the resevoir and pump? how many do people typically use?

what order should i be placing everything in?

resevoir->pump->water blocks->radiator->resevior
is this right?

lastly, should i buy brass fittings to replace any of the plastic ones that comes with my parts? is it worth it?

[alinosa]

a rail is the individual "circuit" that supports a given voltage: a 12V rating, 5V rating, and 3.3V rating. on your psu there's a sticker that gives the ratings for your unit. For example, my ocz powerstream has a 35A 12V rail.

@tubing, the "coils marked" is just writing on the tubing that makes it easier for long lengths to be measured. the $2.35 is per foot, most people typically order 10FT and use ~7... this gives you some oops room and sometimes a retailer will give a discount for 10 ft or more.

the clamps are a good idea, but on my setup there's connections that i'm comfortable with leaving no clamps on. the tubing is holding on tight enough without it.

the order is not TOO important... most people shoot for using the least amount of tubing possible. i recommend running pump>rad>cpu block>gpu block>reservior/t-line>back to pump. this setup offers the shortest route for the coolest water from the radiator to your cpu block. the main thing is to avoid kinking the hose, and avoid really sharp turns if possible. this will maximize your flow rate. the difference between brass and plastic (as long as the dimensions and shape do not change) are cosmetic. If you want brass, use brass, if you like the plastic, keep the plastic. the brass fittings seem to be a little more compact, so this might help when you've got a tight space...

[chunkeymunkey25]

That tubing is Tygon, which is $2.35/foot

The small thing of Zerex is enough for a standard loop, although antifreeze can also work very well, as Zerex doesnt really improve temps too much.

Your 480 watt TT psu only gives 18@ on the 12V line, which is barely enough for a modern system period, much less able to give good power to a high power 12V pump. Youd be stretching things a little using a D/C pump with that psu, you would be better off getting another psu to power the pump, get an A/C for less $, or get a better psu. which is one of the best investments you can make.

[Perseus]

the factor that convinced me to change to a DC powered pump was the power cord... an AC power cord is thick and ugly. It's also hard to route inside your case, not to mention it, or your case needs to be modified so you can run the plug outside your case or piggy-backed to your psu. A DC powered pump is just more convenient to use, provided you have a psu with a beefy 12V rail. No mods necessary, just route it, and plug it in.

I prefer DC pumps as well, but a PCI relay can make a good AC pump a lot more attractive in terms of ease-of-use and functionality.

[Conaway]

good enough, thanks. i'll post more questions if/when they arise.

[MVC]

the factor that convinced me to change to a DC powered pump was the power cord... an AC power cord is thick and ugly. It's also hard to route inside your case, not to mention it, or your case needs to be modified so you can run the plug outside your case or piggy-backed to your psu. A DC powered pump is just more convenient to use, provided you have a psu with a beefy 12V rail. No mods necessary, just route it, and plug it in.

Here's a thread where I posted pics of my modified OCZ PowerStream 600 http://www.ocforums.com/showpost.php?p=3511485&postcount=11. I'm powering an Iwaki MD-20RZ using the main on/off switch on the PSU. Cleanly adding an AC pump really isn't all that difficult. And, if done right, it doesn't look bad at all :)

[HungLo]

the factor that convinced me to change to a DC powered pump was the power cord... an AC power cord is thick and ugly. It's also hard to route inside your case, not to mention it, or your case needs to be modified so you can run the plug outside your case or piggy-backed to your psu. A DC powered pump is just more convenient to use, provided you have a psu with a beefy 12V rail. No mods necessary, just route it, and plug it in.
AC power cord is thick and perhaps ugly.... but it's not like there aren't any thick ugly powercords coming from behind the 'puter.
One could just shave the flared plastic off the plug... and feed it out thru a PCI slot, just another AC cord out back! :)

[millhouse]

If you got an AC pump, you could also try to put sleeving and/or heatshrink over it so that it matches the rest of your case if you have any designated color(s). Hey... Anything is possible

Good luck!! :cool: