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How to modify '77 B-ville Heater Core for 1/2" tubing?

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joot

Registered
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
I just bought a 1977 Pontiac Bonaville Heater Core for my upcomming water cooling project. I heard this is one of the "best" heater core to use as it is only ~$20.00 at Autozone. Anyway, how would I go about modifying it to be use with 1/2" tygon tubing? The heater core factory inlet is 5/8" and outlet is 3/4". What parts do I need to make/modify it to fit a 1/2" tubing? Please help a newbie...
 
Thanks for the links. I just didn't know that there are so much involved in making this heater core "work". This is not the sort of thing a newbie should get into....
 
joot said:
Thanks for the links. I just didn't know that there are so much involved in making this heater core "work". This is not the sort of thing a newbie should get into....
I dont think that because a little bit of work is involved that it qualifies as a job unsuitable for n00bs. There is only one way of that I know to learn to build new things, and thats by trying. It really isnt anything really difficult, and theres tons and tons of knowledge and help here all the time.

Dont be affraid to try anything to make your computer a little more cool.

$0.02
 
well you can either make it really hard on yourself and solder on new barbs, or you can just cut off the excess copper tubing and slip your tubing over it. your choice.
 
crimedog said:
well you can either make it really hard on yourself and solder on new barbs, or you can just cut off the excess copper tubing and slip your tubing over it. your choice.
The second option is exactly what I did, other than using a copper pipe cutter for the tubes (and a hack saw, the cutter couldn’t' make it close enough) I cleaned it out w/ soapy water to make sure no remaining chemicals would mess with my loop. I'm happy I did the soapy water, the core had funky smelling air come out when you blew into it, normal smelling air post soapy water.
 
Remember, this particular heater core has a 5/8" inlet and a 3/4" outlet. I will be using 1/2" tygon tubing as my Swiftec *6002 waterblock is for that dimension. I don't see how I will manage to slip the 1/2" tubing over a 5/8" and 3/4" orifice...!?!... :bang head
 
1/2" will go over 5/8 pretty easily, although getting it over 3/4" is more challenging. Heat the tubing up and use a little dishwashing soap on the ends of the hoses to help them slip on.

Another trick I have used successfully is to put tubing in tubing. You can get a short piece of 3/4"ID tubing from Lowe's or whatever to make your size changes. For instance, 3/4" ID tubing can be put over the barb, and then 1/2"ID 3/4"OD can be inserted into the 3/4"ID that is over the barb and glued into the 3/4" ID using PVC cement, and a clamp can be put on the joint for good measure. Once the PVC cement dries (which takes like 2 minutes) it won't leak and forms a permanent bond. Does that make sense?
 
Thanks for all the great and helpful ideas.....will give it a try... :)
 
I used the tubing inside tubing on mine. PVC glue, and hose clamp since the 3/8 tubing I used is really stiff I could get it really tight. Works great.
 
Yeah, I put my ClearFlex 60 in some really hot water for about 20-30 seconds, and after about 5-10 minutes got the tubing on both 3/4" barbs.
 
sunrunner20 said:
The second option is exactly what I did, other than using a copper pipe cutter for the tubes (and a hack saw, the cutter couldn’t' make it close enough) I cleaned it out w/ soapy water to make sure no remaining chemicals would mess with my loop. I'm happy I did the soapy water, the core had funky smelling air come out when you blew into it, normal smelling air post soapy water.


you definitely need to clean them out with something as they always have some type of funk or chemicals in them -- nothing you would want in a cooling loop.
 
joot said:
Remember, this particular heater core has a 5/8" inlet and a 3/4" outlet. I will be using 1/2" tygon tubing as my Swiftec *6002 waterblock is for that dimension. I don't see how I will manage to slip the 1/2" tubing over a 5/8" and 3/4" orifice...!?!... :bang head


The 2-302 HC? You get a '77 Bville with Ac core?

The ends of the copper tubing are flanged. What you want to do is cut the copper tubes. Right after the bend sin them so you have a nice strait copper tube comming of the HCs top tanks. Then your tubing should slip on nice and easily.

A hack saw, dremel or tube cutter will work. Hack saw is the easiest method (probably cheapest tool too).

Get some steel wool as well. Give the HC a good work over with the steel wool, it will remove the grime and tarnich on the outside, shine it up a bit.
 
whitebloodcell, seems like I remember a thread regarding this from someone in the UK saying that heatercores are very expensive there, but premade rads like the thermochill types are not. I'd have to look and see if I can find the thread.
 
I hadnt noticed thst before, thanks! Thermochill Rads are really cheap over here...for UK anyway. What you reckon, I can get a Weapon 302 core for £63 (damn shipping) or a Thermochill HE120.3 for £56! I might have to go with that. Now just need to find a place to mount it...
 
I have a mid-sized case and really don't have room for my BIXIII inside of my case, so I mounted it on the back.

desktop.jpg


I used this same idea earlier when I had a dual heatercore. The only problem is that the hot air from the PS would hit the rad, so to solve that, I took some sheet metal and made a thing to redirect the air up. I also took sheet metal and made a barrier between the rad the the cabling so that the cabling does not interfere with the rad.

BIXback.jpg


Just an idea if you don't have one of those great Lian-Li type cases, or don't have room height-wise to mount it on the top or bottom. It also makes it really easy to blow out. I would have mounted it onto the top or the bottom of the case, but if I did so, it would not fit height-wise in my desk.
 
so using the stock barbs on the heater core are sufficient? is there any restrictions with the stock tubes, or measurable gains by modding it for the barbs? other then the ease of putting the tubing on?
 
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