• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

1/8" wall Tubing and Worm Drive clamps

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

TheMainFrame

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
On the clamps the slots that allow the screw to make the clamp smaller...

Anyone else have the hose start sqeezing out those slots? Am i tighting the clamps too much? When i take the clamps off there are permanant ribs on the end from the slots.. and theve only been on for 24 hours :)

Is there such thing as clamping them 2 tight? Or is tight just more water proof?

Granted im not going to tighter them till they crush the barb :p
 
Yeah, I get permanent ribs on mine too. If you clamp them too tight you cut potentially cut the tubing, but I've never done that. I get my wormdrive clamps as tight as I can without really cranking it. Just a nice firm twist and you should be good.

I'm having fun watching this progress. :)
 
Depending on the softness of the tubing, yeah you may get some "ribbing". The softer brands will take the extra "pinch" better than the harder types of tubing. If you have the harder tubing (vinyl, masterkleer, etc) don't over tighten, just get them nice and snug. If you over tighten you may begin to cut into the tubing.
 
This is why I have been using the 5076K14 "type 430 worm drive clamps" from Mcmaster.com . They cost the same as clamps in the hardware store but are smooth-lined so they don't cut into the tubing. You can tighten the snot out of these and they work great.
 
Or you can go to autozone or another auto parts store and get fuel injection hose clamps. They have no "ribbing" and therefore won't cut into your hoses.
 
Or you can just avoid them altogether. When I installed new Storm to replace a maze3 decided I couldnt be bothered anymore.
 
calvin said:
Or you can just avoid them altogether. When I installed new Storm to replace a maze3 decided I couldnt be bothered anymore.

I am pretty sure Cathar would recommend using clamps with his Storm blocks, even in one of the first reviews out at Procooling you can clearly see they are using clamps on the G-5

g5_mounted.jpg

Unless your using push-on fittings, your asking for trouble not using hose clamps
 
There are only one or two instances in my setup where I don't use clamps - otherwise I use them exclusively. The first is on my Y, where I have 3/8" tubing over ribbed 1/2" barbs, and the second is on my white water...again, 3/8" tubing over 1/2" barbs. I've done that because I don't have room for more clamps. Otherwise, I would use them. I plan to get rid of both this summer anyway.
 
There are only one or two instances in my setup where I don't use clamps - otherwise I use them exclusively. The first is on my Y, where I have 3/8" tubing over ribbed 1/2" barbs, and the second is on my white water...again, 3/8" tubing over 1/2" barbs. I've done that because I don't have room for more clamps. Otherwise, I would use them. I plan to get rid of both this summer anyway.

Thanks for confirming clamps arent required in all instances. I think you have to look at each situation and decide. With 3/8 or 7/16 over 1/2 barbs the fit is snug to the point clamps appear optional. However, 1/2 tube over 1/2 barbs I think clamps are a good idea.
 
Or use use zipties.

My whole system is secured with zipties, 2 on each connection, and it hasn't leaked yet. Alot of people use the zipties cause they look cleaner and fit easier in tight places. But if you feel better running metal clamps get the fuel injection ones.
 
Back