omg high temps wont stop!!

hung · Jun 6, 2005

ive been watercooling for months now, just recently when i added a maze 4 cpu block to my setup i noticed everything going wrong. tonight i managed to add a second setup, heres what i got atm...
first kit
dual 120mm heatercore
mcp650 dc pump
maze 4 cpu block
T line

second kit
single 120mm heatercore
via aqua 1300 ac pump
maze 4 chipset
maze 4 gfx
T line

its idling 33 right now
but when i run sis sandra burn in wizard, the cpu hits 53, i have no idea what is going on, im out of ideas and am i about to throw this stupid water kit away. im using swiftech's hydrx coolant, 2 oz treats 1 liter of distilled water.
the cpu water block has some marks on the bottom, my heatercore is painted black, so that might be a problem with heat, and i dont even no if my pump is flowing correctly
any suggestions would be great

outhouse · Jun 6, 2005

for #1 your cpu block is not the best. but you have a problem with 1 waterflow or 2 airflow

1 waterflow, lapp the waterblock if theres any marks at all, make sure your using a good tim as5 is best, make sure tubing is not pulling the block off the cpu.

is cold air coming in too the rad or are you pulling warm air?

we need more info on your system to point to a problem

citronym · Jun 6, 2005

i would say a 20 degree difference between idle and load could possibly indicate a poor mate between the cpu and wb. a properly fitted water system should not fluctuate more than 10 degrees between idle and load, imo.

$0.02

hung · Jun 6, 2005

icic

i dont no if its any of my hardware components but heres what i got
p4 2.6c ht
stick of some name brand ddr333 512mb
gigabyte 8ik1100 rev 2.0
leadtek fx5900xt
need any more info?

the rad is getting air pushed through it, if its cold or hot, i dont no, its on the floor and my ambient temp is around 68F.
what i dont understand is that, before, i had a koolance cpu300 v13 water block, with the same swiftech coolant, same heatercore, same fans, with the crappy via aqua 1300 pump, and i was getting 40 load lol, now with a different and better block and pump, i have crappier temps

+ how do i do if my waterblock is getting full contact with the cpu? because if i keep tightening it the motherboard will start to bend, so of course its getting full contact then right?

the block is the one with the nylon accessories, not the metal accessories

maybe you guys could recommend me a block that would go EXTREMELY GREAT with my current pump and heatercore

johnsher · Jun 6, 2005

do you have enough airflow around your cpu? Try putting a fan on it and see what happens.

citronym · Jun 6, 2005

tightening is not the solution! you risk damage to your components. pull the block off, check your thermal interface material application. proper contact thru thermal paste is crucial. if u reseat it and are confident that its on there properly, it certainly doesnt need to be cranked down.

i say reseat it and go from there

hung · Jun 6, 2005

lol i think i do, i dont have my side panel on

thorilan · Jun 6, 2005

first thing is first. try remounting

MVC · Jun 6, 2005

Yeah, a big difference between idle and load generally means a bad mount. Reseat the block and let us know how it works.

hung · Jun 6, 2005

yeah i seriously think i need to remount it, but i need someone with experience on the maze 4 or some type of block that uses those foot long screws that go into the mobo. cause to my eyes it looks mounted correctly lol, should i just keep tightening it still it starts to bend the mobo a bit?

citronym · Jun 6, 2005

The_WRATH said:
yeah i seriously think i need to remount it, but i need someone with experience on the maze 4 or some type of block that uses those foot long screws that go into the mobo. cause to my eyes it looks mounted correctly lol, should i just keep tightening it still it starts to bend the mobo a bit?

definatly not, it doesnt need to be extremely tight. I am also using long nylon mobo bolts on my wb. it might look like its on there properly, but even the smallest minute imperfection in the seat can have negative effects. if it is mounted properly it honestly only needs to be tight enough to hold the wb on the cpu firmly, imo

sunrunner20 · Jun 6, 2005

I would think no, you should not see the mobo bending. But, we can't help you with mounting without CPU info. AMD or intel and which modle...

sicloan · Jun 6, 2005

The_WRATH said:
icic

i dont no if its any of my hardware components but heres what i got
p4 2.6c ht
stick of some name brand ddr333 512mb
gigabyte 8ik1100 rev 2.0
leadtek fx5900xt
need any more info?

theres his specs, he posted earlier

hung · Jun 6, 2005

yeah, im thinking about going to the store and getting metal screws and replacing the nylon ones because im afraid that it might be bending or something out of the ordinary, but i believe you that even the slighest tilt on the wb will keep it from working correctly.

and citronym, what temps do you seem to be getting with the block on load and did you ever lap the block or does yours have some small marks

gungeek · Jun 6, 2005

If the tubing going to the pump inlet is still collapsed from suction per the other thread, that is your major problem. It is hard to transfer heat with water if the water can't flow very well (if at all, that inlet tube is FLATTENED).

hung · Jun 6, 2005

lol got cha
thx for the pm too bro, fixing the prob

citronym · Jun 6, 2005

wrath, hope your getting things sorted out
personally, with a new mobo (AN7) im getting 28º idle and 32º loaded. thats at 1.81v (2400+ @ 2300)

I did infact lap my block, it had tarnished quite a bit since the last time it was used. Im also using AS5, and i think that helped as well, what tim are u using? my wb does have marks, but the area that meets the cpu is perfect.

hung · Jun 7, 2005

lol lucky mofo
how come i aint getting those same temps! argh!
yeah im using as5, no probs there lol, but i have a few marks on the surface, what grit did you lap it to?

citronym · Jun 7, 2005

i used 600 grit to start, and shined it up with 1600. if you use more different densities like 600 1000 1400 1600 it will be faster. i had to spend a lot of time on each grit.

my system is also in front of a window a/c, and the rad is sandwiched between 2 120 fans blowing air from the a/c. 100% distilled also helps, but is only safe if u have all copper. im using a few capfuls of water wetter, too. with 10% antifreeze i was almost 5 degrees higher.

hit me up on aim if u want

omg high temps wont stop!!

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