Black Ice Radiators

The Black Ice Xtreme II in perticular..

Can you safely get bolts to go threw the rad?

I know its got the mounts and im currenty using screws that screw into the mount holes tightly..

But would it be possible to get a bolt all the way threw the rad out the other side?

And how would one do that with miniumum damage?

yes, you can do it through the fins, just use screwdriver to make a path for the screw but do it carefully

ok cool...

I know what size bolts i need.. i beileve there gonna be #6 at home depot.. but where can i get them in long lenghts?

Like maybe.. 8 inches long

aslos if i break a fin is that bad? i guess what im asking is the fins are dissapating heat.. there isent water running threw where ill be bending right?

use 6/32 allthread and nuts. you can cut the allthread to size. avoid breaking the fins. the fins are sort so Just use a jwlers screwdriver.

make sure you flush out that rad. those black ice rads are always full of little metal flakes

Krashnicki said:

use 6/32 allthread and nuts. you can cut the allthread to size. avoid breaking the fins. the fins are sort so Just use a jwlers screwdriver.

make sure you flush out that rad. those black ice rads are always full of little metal flakes

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I can cut them to size? what size do they come in?

Can these be purchased at home depots?

yes they are threaded rods. kinda like bolts without a head. they come in various diamaters and will be sold probably in a 2 ft length. you can jut cut it with a hacksaw. they can be purchased at any hardware store

Also before you cut it, screw a nut on it. Then after you cut the rod, unscrew the nut and this will fix any damaged threads on the rod.

Krashnicki said:

yes they are threaded rods. kinda like bolts without a head. they come in various diamaters and will be sold probably in a 2 ft length. you can jut cut it with a hacksaw. they can be purchased at any hardware store

Also before you cut it, screw a nut on it. Then after you cut the rod, unscrew the nut and this will fix any damaged threads on the rod.

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rockin... thats some sweet info you just gave me and you prob just made my rad setup even cooler... literly LoL

I got my rad mounted on top of my computer near the back and was thinking of putting 2 more fans on it so i had to pull and 2 push.. the current fans are 120x38 panaflo's and i wanna get 2 more of the same fans

So do you think that having the 4 fans all mod to 7 volts will be more effecient then having the 2 at 12v?

Would having all 4 mod to 7v be better then the 2 at 12v with a good shroud?

*edit* got a link in my sig if you want a pic of my mounted radiator

hard to say without testing maybe someone else has tried it. What I would do eliminate the 4 fan push pull config and run with two of these http://svc.com/fba12g12u.html. Each fan pulls a 115cfm which is hugh. but be warned they are 1.5 inches thick if you are cramped on space. Two of these would probably pull more air then the four fans running at 7v and would be just as quite depending on what fans you go with. But that is just my opinion

when you use allthread rods make sure that you double nut both ends of the rod so it won't come loose !

learning curve said:

when you use allthread rods make sure that you double nut both ends of the rod so it won't come loose !

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either that or threadlock

Krashnicki said:

hard to say without testing maybe someone else has tried it. What I would do eliminate the 4 fan push pull config and run with two of these http://svc.com/fba12g12u.html. Each fan pulls a 115cfm which is hugh. but be warned they are 1.5 inches thick if you are cramped on space. Two of these would probably pull more air then the four fans running at 7v and would be just as quite depending on what fans you go with. But that is just my opinion

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umm.... thats exactly the 2 fans i currently have mounted on the rad now.... i was contemplating 4 of them at 7v...

WOW that is alot of air flow. I dont know if all of that is necessary but I could be wrong. Just remeber that you cannot cool the fluid below ambiant room temp without some type of peltier. If I am wrong by saying that four of these fans are overkill someone please correct me. You may spend money and see very limited if any results and 4 of these fans at 7v will probably be louder than 2 at 12v. Is your cpu running hot or something? Why do you feel the need for more air flow?

Krashnicki said:

WOW that is alot of air flow. I dont know if all of that is necessary but I could be wrong. Just remeber that you cannot cool the fluid below ambiant room temp without some type of peltier. If I am wrong by saying that four of these fans are overkill someone please correct me. You may spend money and see very limited if any results and 4 of these fans at 7v will probably be louder than 2 at 12v. Is your cpu running hot or something? Why do you feel the need for more air flow?

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No need.. cant be too cool

CPU is a 640 3.2 @ 4.0 - 250 x 16 - 1.425v

Temps are give or take 1C about..

26C idle and 34C load

what would the temp affect be if i added my 6600GT to the loop?

** sorry checked those temps.. looked funny and i was way off lol**

26C idle and 34C load... ambient temp is a constant 21c-22C gotta love central air

corrected them above aswell

42C load is pretty good in my opinion. I am a amd guy but from what I hear prescotts run hotter then hell especially when overclocked. your system should be able to handle the addition of your gpu with no problem. The sign of a good watercooling step is not only how cool your cpu stays at load but how rapidly it cools down when the load is removed and I would bet your system would cool down very quickly. But hten again what te hell go for the 2 extra fans and let me know how it works out. what is the worst that could happen? it will only cost $20 for the two fans so if you want to expieriment go for it. Here is a link for undervolting a fan that is very informative. http://www.silentpcreview.com/article6-page1.html

her is a excert from the article you should pay attention to if you have not done this before

Caution! There are people, who will say "You can't feed current back into your power-supply" and they are right!

If you plug something between the 12V and 5V lead, you have to be absolutely sure, that no current is fed back into the PSU. Which means, that you need to have other loads on that 5V lead, which suck out more current than you feed to that lead from the 12V lead.

For example: Your fan uses 100mA at 7V. You take 100mA from the 12V lead and feed them into the 5V lead. If you have a different fan (or whatsoever), that sucks out 200mA from the 5V lead and feeds them to ground, you're fine. 100mA are sucked out of the 5V lead, 100mA come from the 12V lead and 200mA go to ground.

Since usual fans only use 1...3W, you are usually perfectly safe with using the 7V trick there. There a lots of devices in typical computers, which draw much more power out. Peltiers or things with power consumptions running up to dozens of watts, require careful calculation of what goes out of the 5V lead and what's going in there from the 12V lead.

I'd suggest using #4 instead of #6 threaded rod. #4 is plenty strong and it's much easier to make a hole for a #4 than a #6. Use something smooth with a blunt, rounded tip to bend the fins to make a tunnel through the fins; don't use the threaded rod to make the tunnel, it'll catch on every fin. #4 is also easier to cut. Another rod/bolt cutting option is the pliers designed to strip wire and crimp solderless terminals. Generally, they have several threaded holes close to the pivot pin for cutting different diameter threaded bolts up to #10. A hacksaw or dremel with cutting disk works also, but thread the nut on first as previously mentioned. The pliers are more precise though.

gungeek said:

I'd suggest using #4 instead of #6 threaded rod. #4 is plenty strong and it's much easier to make a hole for a #4 than a #6. Use something smooth with a blunt, rounded tip to bend the fins to make a tunnel through the fins; don't use the threaded rod to make the tunnel, it'll catch on every fin. #4 is also easier to cut. Another rod/bolt cutting option is the pliers designed to strip wire and crimp solderless terminals. Generally, they have several threaded holes close to the pivot pin for cutting different diameter threaded bolts up to #10. A hacksaw or dremel with cutting disk works also, but thread the nut on first as previously mentioned. The pliers are more precise though.

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Ya as long as its strong enough where i cant bend it like a twig then 4 will work as well... if its eisier and safer im all for it..

Thanks for the suggestion

Granted this is just subjective experience, but i went from 2 Delta WFB1212M fans at 12 volts on a dual heatercore to 6 of them on a BIXIII at 5 volts and they are MUCH quieter. It is about the volume of a whisper.

TheMainFrame said:

Ya as long as its strong enough where i cant bend it like a twig then 4 will work as well... if its eisier and safer im all for it..

Thanks for the suggestion

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If you are using it for mounting you don't need sheer strength very much (bending it like a twig) all you mainly need is tension, which all these bolts have more than enough for holding a radiator and a few fans.

sunrunner20 said:

If you are using it for mounting you don't need sheer strength very much (bending it like a twig) all you mainly need is tension, which all these bolts have more than enough for holding a radiator and a few fans.

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Roger that...

I like the idea of it.. not to mention if i get the other 2 panaflo fans it would be nice to have a bolt that would go from the case.. threw the spacers... threw the Fans... threw the rad... then threw the second set of fans... and top it off with some nuts to sandwich that stuff all together

And a clarification, 4-40 is not the standard used by most companies, machine standard seems to be 6-32(however I doubt that will go through a rad w/o lots o fin bending)
And, by sheer I mean this kind
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| <--- Force going perpendicular to the length of the all thread.
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| is the all thread
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