my revisioned hc and shroud

hung · Jun 11, 2005

i touched up on my heatercore and shroud a bit, its kinda old, i built it from sheet metal which was like 5 dollars and i had a large cunch left over as well. the hc is some random one i got on ebay lol, if someone can identify it that would be sweet, the fans are 80cfm, some no name jdm ones, at 30dbs or so. the edges have door moldings i got from some auto store. i jb welded the fittings on there, cut the originals off of course. and covered it with shrink wrap, after i took pictures 1-3, the radiator fell on the floor and broke a fitting LOL, so in the pic 4, there is the fitting getting jb welded again, stupid thing...

now i need your guys opinion on which way i should be facing the fans, the shroud and hc will go in the bottom right corner of my chieftec case, the fittings will be in the air, not on the bottom of the case.

?should the fans be on the left side or the right side of the hc?
?should the fans be pushing or pulling?

honhon · Jun 11, 2005

i would vote and will probably have other votes to have the shroud on the barb side of the heater core with them in a suck connection sucking air through the heatercore and exhausting it out the barb side.

citronym · Jun 11, 2005

everyone definately seems to prefer pulling as opposed to pushing. better flow and less noise. as far as which direction, is there one direction over the other that might provide slightly cooler air or less resistance?

is the hc gonna lay flat on the bottom of the case? if so, be sure theres plenty of room underneath the case to allow air flow (cant remember if i saw a pic of your case or not)

Fighter2a · Jun 11, 2005

It looks really good.

hung · Jun 11, 2005

lol thx, yeah its gonna be stand up, sorry, um...the majority of post in my other thread about which way i should have the fans is that the fans should be on the side with the barbs, and it should be pulling the air through the back of the hc, and into the case and get sucked out by my back 80mm fans, ill have a pic if the finished setup in a while,

crimedog · Jun 11, 2005

doesn't matter which side you have the shroud on, put it on which side works better for your setup...

i'd have em pulling air through rad

hung · Jun 11, 2005

heres what i got so far, lol trying to work the system out so that i wont have any kinks
gonna have it...
pump->hc->swif 6002->gfx->T line->pump

any recommendations?

oh, got the fans pushing air through the bottom front cause thats the only way i can have it, cause of my unique shroud design. hope it doesnt cause my temp probs.

citronym · Jun 11, 2005

The_WRATH said:
oh, got the fans pushing air through the bottom front cause thats the only way i can have it, cause of my unique shroud design. hope it doesnt cause my temp probs.

i think at worst, it will be barely noticably louder, and at most cost 1 or 2 degrees (MOST). it inst really a bid deal imo

btw looking very nice

hung · Jun 11, 2005

thx for the input

gungeek · Jun 11, 2005

I think you'll be happy with the cooling results. You have a good layout and good components. Just makes sure the tubing doesn't pull, twist, or push on the blocks. Tubing pressure on the rad, T, and pump is not a problem.

hung · Jun 12, 2005

gungeek said:
makes sure the tubing doesn't pull, twist, or push on the blocks. Tubing pressure on the rad, T, and pump is not a problem.

whoa, thats new, ill keep that in mind gungeek

citronym · Jun 12, 2005

well just think of it this way wrath. the connection between the cpu and the waterblock is very sensitive. im sure u have heard of people cracking the die on thier cpu. this is from improper handling of an attatchable cooling device. the corners of the contact surface on the cpu get cracked and crumbled off. sometimes the cpu still works, sometimes not. now, it would take one hell of a cramped hose to break a cpu die, but thats an extreme example. typically, when a hose has pressure when attatched to the cpu, it simply pushes the waterblock in one direction and causes the mate between the cpu and the waterblock to be uneven. by making sure that there are no hose cramps around the cpu, u are eliminating one cause of an unacceptable performance from your wc setup, should something be wrong when u fire it up (god forbid). again, the hose really has to be forced to be put into a situation like that, just make sure the hoses going to and from the cpu are in a natural curve.

hope i helped, if it doesnt make sense its not my fault, its the beers fault.

hung · Jun 12, 2005

beer brings out the best

nono, makes perfect sense, maybe this isnt what your talking about, but is that why people lap their cpus? cause....im starting to ponder...the reason why i wasnt getting REASONABLE temps with a maze4 cpu block is because...it wasnt properly connected with the cpu, i looked underneath the block and it BARELY had any indications of as5. and when you look at it, the block looks as if it is making the FULLEST contact with the cpu. cause usually when you take off a hs or block, theres like an outline of the thermal paste that you used correct? well, maybe its my cpu, is there a chance it could be uneven, does that even make sense lol

if it doesnt make sense, then its the fruit punch's fault
lol

citronym · Jun 12, 2005

lol. good stuff

actually. lapping a block does this:
typically with heatsinks and waterblock (although less and less with modern wb's) when they were machined, they were not very flat. when u lap them with fine sandpaper, u might notice that when u start sanding, and only the outsides of the block are being sanded, and the inside of the flat surface seems untouched. this is a good example of an untrue mating surface. when u lap it enough, the whole surface seems equally lapped, and then u know the cooling device is perfectly flat. if it isnt flat, obviously, the cooling device isnt sitting flush on the cpu.

now, again, im beered, but from reading your description it sounds to me like u in fact DO have a GREAT mating surface between the cpu and die. if there is no indication of as5 where the cpu was touching the water block, in my mind that is because the wb squeezed it all out (because it was touching). if u can see a collection of as5 anywhere where the wb was touching, that is an area that wasnt making good contact. remember, as5 is to fill in MICROSCOPIC spaces in which u wouldnt notice much as5 when u pulled it apart.

honhon · Jun 12, 2005

its gonna be alittle tight in that case. i know when i water cooled my p4 in my antec soho server case i had no shroud on my system and it was getting alitte tight after i put everything together, but i think my delta's are unusually thicker which contributed to it, each delta can push/pull 130CFM byitself so thats 260CFM together.

on the rig in my sig i am going to get thinner 25mm 120mm fans to be alittle quieter and because i do plan to use a shroud this next time around, somewhat for looks but also for performance because ill be using a single 120mm heater core.

citronym · Jun 12, 2005

aww come on, crammin wc into small cases is fun. check out my sig

honhon · Jun 12, 2005

yes it is fun, i will be water cooling my sviking case and its kinda tight with only air cooling, but i removed the 3.5 bays and put my hdd in one of the 5.25 with the 30$ antec hdd cooler and i did that for more air flow from the front fan and b/c i knew i would be water cooling again, but only the cpu this time, i can just get a 30$ 2nd PCI slot GPU cooler and get about the same results, OR get that new thermalright cooler mentioned in the general cooling section thats posting just as good results as water cooling.

hung · Jun 13, 2005

is it now?.hmm..lol

alright heres some updated pics
hey, is there anything wrong with running elbows in your system lol, cause i have one for the inlet of my hc to my pump cause i didnt want to deal with kinks, so i just used an elbow, easiest way to avoid kinks

citronym · Jun 13, 2005

those elbows def are gonna create resistance, they hold up the flow quite a bit. but if thats the easiest way u can do it, try it out. u have a decent pump, so it might not effect the temps that much. but what do i know...

gungeek · Jun 13, 2005

It won't make much practical difference using a pin-fin type block such as the mcw-600x series. They don't require high flow rates to perform well unlike older impingement or maze type blocks. That is where the high-flow-is-everything, 1/2ID-tubing-is-required religon got started. Other factors are more important now.

my revisioned hc and shroud

Member

Attachments

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Attachments

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Attachments

Member

Member

Similar threads