Your CH-6 should continue to see gains right up to ~3.8V or so.
That said, if I were in your situation, I would not buy a Booster.
~ A stable 220 MHz FSB isn't shabby on an nForce2 board.
~ Most nForce2 chipsets won't clear ~240 MHz with tight timings, maintaining 3D stability. With tight timings, the AGP controllers commonly tend to go AWOL around there, in my experience.
~ As such, there is a chance that you'll buy a Booster, then find that your board caps at ~225 MHz with tight timings
~ The Abit NF7-S has a VTT (A DDR voltage referenced from VDIMM - it is supposed to be exactly 1/2 of VDIMM) tracking problem; the boards typically do not track VTT properly past ~3.1V or so (VTT won't increase past ~1.55V). As such, to use your booster to its full effect (3.3V-3.5V is probably what you'll be wanting), you will need to voltmod your motherboard.
~ Brings me back to my first point... you buy the booster, voltmod the board, and then discover that your chipset won't clear ~225 MHz with tight timings
.
~ There is no guarantee that a Booster will net you any speed increase whatsoever for your ~$40.
~ With the amount of work involved in getting a booster to work properly with your NF7-S, you would save a lot of money and have a lot more fun just doing VDIMM and VTT voltmods to your board, and running an overvolted +3.3VDC rail
.
Then again, more than a few NF7-S boards scale FSB right into the mid 250s with full stability (although rarely with tight timings). It's partially luck of the draw. Your RAM definitely has
at least 240 Mhz in it however.
Speaking personally, my old NF7-S would not clear a 228 MHz FSB with 3D stability and tight timings, no matter
what I did to it. It scaled right to a ~255 MHz FSB for anything but 3D
.
Once again speaking from personal opinion here, but for VDIMM overvoltage below ~3.5V, I think that voltmods are far more economical, more educational, and more fun than buying a Booster. For ~3.5V+, a +3.3VDC rail overvolt loses it's practicality.
Just my ten cents
.