Rad is the highest point in system

Ok guys I just got my new Swiftech 6002 and I have decided to wait till after the big LAN this weekend to install just incase. There is a 99.9% chance nothing will happen/break but if it was going to happen it would happen now to take me out of the LAN...Murphy's Law. Anyhow, I started thinking about the rest of my cooling setup. I have a BIX double micro or whatever. The rad that accepts 2 80mm fans mounted to the rear of my case. Its good but temps can always get better .

I am thinking about getting a double 120mm and mounting it in the top of my case. But it will then be the tallest point in my water setup and I use a T-Line. I DON'T want a res so what do I do? I found this http://www.jab-tech.com/customer/product.php?productid=2411&cat=165&page=1. I know I could build one myself but is this the basic solution to the problem mentioned above?

Tline will be fine.

Water can't get out if air can't get in.

I just hope you don't have any leaks in your system

I say get it. I love the F&B kits. They are easy to make too. Yeah this will solve your problem. Go to the swiftech site and download the PDF that details how to set it up. There are a lot of pics in it to help you get it right.

You should be able to bleed your system without spending $30 on that F&B kit. If you are going to use that, you may as well use a res. You may have to turn your system on end while bleeding to get the air out, but a lot of people mount rads this way.

My rad is the highest point in my system and all I have is a t-line. Works fine don't see why you would need something like that.

The T-line doesn't need to be the highest point in the loop.I had mine @ the bottom of my loop.

i recommend a T line, they are the easiest to install, and when i had a res, it was too much trouble if i had to take it out and stuff, oh this is just a suggestion, but maybe you should look into getting a heatercore if you havent already

ah thats what I was looking for...the T-line does not have to be at the top...then isn't bleeding out the air a pain? Then about that heatercore issue. I noticed that there is several different dual 120mm rads out there but I can't find a review on all of them nor can I find BTU ratings on all of them...which is the best?!

Well the BIP cools less then the BIX but the BIP is thinner so you can use quieter fans. With my setup it kind of is a pain to bleed the system but it's not that big of a deal all I did was leaving it running overnight and eventually all the air was gone.

thezfunk said:

ah thats what I was looking for...the T-line does not have to be at the top...then isn't bleeding out the air a pain?

Click to expand...

Somewhat, it just takes longer. Does an extra hour or two really matter that much though?

Then about that heatercore issue. I noticed that there is several different dual 120mm rads out there but I can't find a review on all of them nor can I find BTU ratings on all of them...which is the best?!

Click to expand...

Some rules of thumb:

• Bigger is better
• Thicker can be better - but needs strong fan(s) to go with its thickness.
• Same as with density (fins per inch, FPI)
• More airflow will lower temps better than more water flow.

The most commonly used 120mm*2 type heatercores are the 2-302('77 b'ville with A/C) and a 2-342 (don't know care modle) The 2-302 is dual pass while the 2-342 is single. There is a excel file somewhere that lists all the different heatercores and their specs.

And what Phextwin says is true execpt on one minor point:

More airflow will lower temps better than more water flow.

Click to expand...

I will disagree with that because if you take it to an extreem and use a weak pump on a loop with 2 2-342's(4 80CFM fans), two Nv-68's, and a Storm G5. You'll get better temps changing your pump to something much stronger like a MCP655 than you would uping the fans to something like 100CFM beasts.

sunrunner20 said:

The most commonly used 120mm*2 type heatercores are the 2-302('77 b'ville with A/C) and a 2-342 (don't know care modle) The 2-302 is dual pass while the 2-342 is single. There is a excel file somewhere that lists all the different heatercores and their specs.

And what Phextwin says is true execpt on one minor point:

I will disagree with that because if you take it to an extreem and use a weak pump on a loop with 2 2-342's(4 80CFM fans), two Nv-68's, and a Storm G5. You'll get better temps changing your pump to something much stronger like a MCP655 than you would uping the fans to something like 100CFM beasts.

Click to expand...

i agree with above, more water flow is better than anything else in the water cool loop.

sunrunner20 said:

I will disagree with that because if you take it to an extreem and use a weak pump on a loop with 2 2-342's(4 80CFM fans), two Nv-68's, and a Storm G5. You'll get better temps changing your pump to something much stronger like a MCP655 than you would uping the fans to something like 100CFM beasts.

Click to expand...

No offence, but thats a pretty silly hypothetical setup there. Besides, there are rules of thumb anyway, meaning they do not always apply.

I should have worded it better, my apologies. All i was trying to say is that you dont need a pair of D5's to get excellent temps.

http://thermal-management-testing.com/Thermo14.gif
http://thermal-management-testing.com/Thermo15.gif

Look at the graphs and see for yourself