Is this ok?

Just routing my tubing, but I can't seem to run my gpu back to my pump w/ out kinking (tried other routing methods, but this is the one that doesn't kink, but does have a slight oval shape to it...so is that going to be ok?

here are some pictures, but you can't really tell that it's slightly bent (no kinks, but not perfectly round)

thanks for any suggestions

anyone?

Looks Good to me. Have you ever tried taping your tubes to avoid kinking?

apologize for my ignorance, but what u mean taping? like actual scotch tape?

That looks ok, looks like the tube flattened a bit, but still should be the same ineer area, since it doesn't appear to have kinked at all.

a common method for preventing kinks is tying zip ties around the tubing where the kink occurs, this prevents it from flattening.

looks good to me.

whats the wall thickness of that tubing?

and where are the hose clamps>? lol

i'm still a water cooling novice, but it seems to look like it doesn't have any kind of kink in it. also, just by knowing some basic fluid physics it doesn't seem that it would cause you any kind of prob. as long as your pump is consistent in it's flow rate and the pressure doesn't vary too dramatically you should be getting the same amount of pressure on the other side of the bend as you would before the bend. i'm no expert, but that's my take.

Actually, the tubing being flattened does cause the water to flow more slowly than when it is round. I asked the same question once, and I think the reply is best quoted, and not summed up.

Diggrr said:

t's somewhat like looking at an onion slice, with the centermost rings being fast waterflow, and the outermost rings slower flow as they must interact with the static tubing walls. The layer of water against the tube walls is hardly moving due to friction between the tube wall and the viscous fluid (even air acts as a viscous fluid).
Adding together the flowrates of the "rings" gives you your net flowrate.

When you flatten a tube, and the boundary layers are allowed to come into contact, they produce turbulence against each other, and the flow is choked severely. The center rings are gone, leaving the more turbulent (and slower)boundary rings, and your net flowrate much lower than before.

Click to expand...

I hope this helps you out.

thanks for the suggestions everyone, I'm goin to see if it affects my temps, and maybe use some zip ties to strengthen the walls..

the tubing i'm using is silcone tubing from mcmasters.com 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD

and I'm using brass fittings for the tubing, very snug and will not tear your tubing (btw if you need the part numbers let me know and i'll post it and dont use the brass fittings till after you test fit, b/c they're pain in the *** to take off haha)

yang88she said:

the tubing i'm using is silcone tubing from mcmasters.com 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD

Click to expand...

if its the thick tubing i wouldnt worry about it, i had that same thickness but in tygon and i bet i had a sharper curve and didnt have an issues, my tubing actually pressed against the acrlic window, so imho you'll all set to go.

yang88she said:

thanks for the suggestions everyone, I'm goin to see if it affects my temps, and maybe use some zip ties to strengthen the walls..

the tubing i'm using is silcone tubing from mcmasters.com 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD

and I'm using brass fittings for the tubing, very snug and will not tear your tubing (btw if you need the part numbers let me know and i'll post it and dont use the brass fittings till after you test fit, b/c they're pain in the *** to take off haha)

Click to expand...

I would still say use hose clamps. I had 1/2" clearflex60 on a 1/2" brass barb come off after a LAN party once. After all isn't your system worth $2 or $3 more.

Is I gonna be under pressure or suction? If it's under suction a stainless steel
spring will stop it from collapsing. They do this in cars to prevent rad hoses
from collapsing.

ZachM said:

Actually, the tubing being flattened does cause the water to flow more slowly than when it is round. I asked the same question once, and I think the reply is best quoted, and not summed up.

Diggrr said:

t's somewhat like looking at an onion slice, with the centermost rings being fast waterflow, and the outermost rings slower flow as they must interact with the static tubing walls. The layer of water against the tube walls is hardly moving due to friction between the tube wall and the viscous fluid (even air acts as a viscous fluid).
Adding together the flowrates of the "rings" gives you your net flowrate.

When you flatten a tube, and the boundary layers are allowed to come into contact, they produce turbulence against each other, and the flow is choked severely. The center rings are gone, leaving the more turbulent (and slower)boundary rings, and your net flowrate much lower than before.

Click to expand...

I hope this helps you out.

Click to expand...

Ok, i will make my point and that will be it. that's wrong. why? b/c if a fluid is rounding a bend the fluid on the outside of the curve must travel twice as fast as the fluid on the inside of the bend to maintain the same speed, or in this case, the speed due to the pumps pressure. it's just like spinning a ball on a string, centripital force, but with fluids. also, he is right about the fluid being viscious and the tubing as well, but if it weren't then this would be a 100% effcient system. it is not 100% efficient, no system is, it is impossible. saying that the material is slowing down the water is a valid point, but it's not going to be noticable. we're using these products, not designing them. stop worrying about minor details so much. i am no expert, but i can say with great assurance that the flattening out of the tube will not effect the speed of the water to make a noticable difference.

if what you have works like it should, i don't see a prob. good job on the wc system. i'll be starting mine soon as well.

I was blowing out my case and doing some general dusting a couple of days ago (hadn't done anything to it for a few weeks) and noticed that a tube had formed a SEVERE kink on the hose going from my Cpu to chipset. I'm talking that the hose was like half or less of what it should be (1/2" 1/8" walled Tygon 3603). I had changed the hose from clearflex 60 to tygon about a month ago because the clearflex was flattening out a little due to the tight bend. Surprisingly, fixing it only changed the CPU temp about 2c according to MBM5. I wouldn't worry about a little flattening out- just make sure it doesn't kink later like mine did!