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diy waterblocks with silver clay

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lithker

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2004
i recently seen a show on pbs about making ur own jewelry with a clay like substance that turns to silver after firing. she used a rubber stamp to make am imprint on it for a pendant. the end result for the completed piece is pure silver(99.9%). this got me to thinking how easy it would be to make a waterblock this way. any opinions?
 
sounds like a good idea.

and silver is more heat conductive that copper... if i'm not mistaken, so it would conduct heat better than your typical copper waterblock.
 
you might have to make the block in halves, then weld it just to work with it, but yeah i agree i think this idea has merit!
 
Thats very interesting....

What is this "clay liek compound" and where can we get some?!?!?!?

EDIT a quick google turned up http://www.silver-clay.com/

And a quick check of their site turns up some interesting notes:

Thsi stuff doesn't look to be horribly expensive, although the big down side is a kiln is needed to fire the clay. Also, there is a shrinkage that happens, so i am wagering it would pose some potential issues with nailing down the right dimensions.
 
They do have "paper" stuff too. That would probally work good to put on the bottom of a waterblock/heatsink, then lap it.
 
Wow, a 30% loss in size.

Firing it at over 800 degree too.

Sorry, my oven doesn't go that high.

Hmm, wonder if using a torch would work?
 
If you know anybody in art school or in highschool most of the time they will toss stuff in the kiln when there is room.. so go patrol the High school Parking lots =P hehe
 
yea, kilns are expensive, but they arent hard to find one for use. this topic is interesting, ill be looking forward to where it goes from here
 
Dang! Talk about micro-channels...impressing some .001 shim stock to make your channels!
Shrinkage often means warping, but lapping would cure that.

Now you've gone and done it...:rolleyes:
 
WarriorII said:
Wow, a 30% loss in size.

Firing it at over 800 degree too.

Sorry, my oven doesn't go that high.

Hmm, wonder if using a torch would work?


Doubtfull, If it behaves just like real clay it would crack into tiny bits. You might beable to build a minature kiln out of fireblock and some sort of an array of propane flames. However, You would be better off finding a kiln you can use. This stuff still is rather expensive, considering how much silver weighs (~104G/milileter)
 
Diggrr said:
Dang! Talk about micro-channels...impressing some .001 shim stock to make your channels!
Shrinkage often means warping, but lapping would cure that.

Now you've gone and done it...:rolleyes:

Just a heads up. I've had some experience with PMC and it is still somewhat porous when it has been fired. I would leak test the finished product for several days to make sure you aren't slowly loosing coolant through it.
 
This is very interesting,

I can go to the mall and use a kiln in the arts and crafts shop they have set up for the kids. I am already going crazy with the possibilities!
 
speaking of kilns, i was in art class last year of my high school career, it was pottery class. dont laugh, it was an easy A and i got to play with mud for 45mins, so ill take it.

but what i am bringing this up for is maybe you can check with your son/daughters school to see if they can fire it for you (fire = heat and cure it in the kiln)

OR you can just call the school and ask for the art department if they have a klin and can fire your block when they are putting some artwork in the kilns?

:EDIT:

personally i would probably be able to do option #2 because my girlfriend has a fredinly relationship with most of the teachers at her old high school, darn smarty pants and suck up. :rolleyes:
 
i have a middle school down the street which has let me use their kiln to fire things before, maybe you could mosey over to your local middle school (high school isn't as nice about it, so my suggestion would be the middle school, but mileage may vary i'm sure) and ask them.

might be worth a shot for those who may want to try it. also, my art teacher in the middle school has a lot of tricks up her sleeve for things with regard to the size and proportion changes made when firing clay, maybe your local art teacher would be helpful in this area as well?

if i get the chance to try and chat with mine again, i'll be sure to let you know (if she even still works there, lol). it's been like 4 years since i've been to my old middle school. i'll be sure to ask her about what you could do to atleast predict/modify the specific size of it after firing.
 
My wife works at the high school, but school's out for the summer...*sigh*
 
torin3 said:
Just a heads up. I've had some experience with PMC and it is still somewhat porous when it has been fired. I would leak test the finished product for several days to make sure you aren't slowly loosing coolant through it.

I have a concern about the density of this product after firing it. I am not worried about it leaking, but I would think the silver molecules would be further apart than normal machined silver. That would lessen the capacity for heat transfer through the metal, totally ruining the advantage of using silver in the first place.
 
ZachM said:
I have a concern about the density of this product after firing it. I am not worried about it leaking, but I would think the silver molecules would be further apart than normal machined silver. That would lessen the capacity for heat transfer through the metal, totally ruining the advantage of using silver in the first place.

:bang head Sorry, not thinking too clearly tonight. Putting together new computer. Yes indeed, the small voids you will get will indeed insulate. I'm not sure how much it will affect the transfer of heat, but it will have some effect.
 
It said that the product would shrink about 8-12% of its original size so it might be safe to assume that the clay will collasp on its self filling in the void where the burn off material was.

Bryan D.

PS- Very interesting stuff
 
You could buy a ingot of silver and take it to one of those people that make jewelery at the flea market, have them cast the piece for a few bucks
or cast it youself (on the stove)using a sand or plaster mold.preheat the plaster so it wont crack from the heat(yes I learned the hard way)I used this method to cast parts, rubber and metal on my old car.
 
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