Are These temps about right for water?

[lbbo2002]

I have:

Danger Den DD12V-D4
Black Ice Pro III PC Radiator
5 ¼ drive bay reservoir
½ inch tubing
TDX Water Block

Cooling a P4 3.4@4.1 running 1.5v. I have ambient temps about 24C. My temps are 44C no load and 51C under load. How do these compare? They seem high to me but its still 10 lower than under just air just wondering.

[citronym]

Well the temps could be high, but high compared to what?

I'd say, comparing to your previous cooling (which is the only legit thing to compare it to at all) its doing pretty good. 10º drop is pretty decent.

With that rad, I might have expected lower temps, but you never know. Check out SewerBeings sticky http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=396244

[lbbo2002]

With 3 Deltas@123CFM on the RAD I expected a little better performance. I do not have any kinks but I will have to look at some of the other suggestions in that sticky. Its possible the TDX isn't mounted correctly or I still have air or something.

Its my first water cooling project so I guess I was a little surprised not to just see a 10-14C over ambient rise :shrug:

Thanks for the suggestion.

[citronym]

Same thing happened to me when I first threw my water together. I replaced the mobo and found that the old one was reporting wickedly high temps.

I would def reseat that block tho, those things are a pain sometimes. Lets us know what happens.

Is there any pics?

[MmCheeto]

you think if he updated the bois if there was one avalable it might make it a little more acurate? I hear most mobos in general dont report very acurate temps fromt eh start so im not sure if an update would help at all. Anyone though of a temperature probe for the water? One could be install fairly easy on the output of the cpu block. That might be a way to get a better idea of the temp in the block :shrug:

[SewerBeing]

First off: do not be so quick to blame the temp sensor since you have absoutely 0 evidence for that case. Next up is your tubing kinking (as in tight turns were its collapsing in on it self)? Did you bleed it properly (as in get all the air out)? Also where is the rad in the case and how is it blowing the air?

[lbbo2002]

MB is a Abit Max 3 latest BOIS and I have 6 months plus data with 3.2E and 3.4E on air to compare the water system against.

I will post pics. Its pretty Ghetto as I stuck all this in a mid tower and had to be creative in mounting the RAD.

Definitely go to re-seat the water block.

[nikhsub1]

Abit's actually read the ON DIE thermistor (unlike Asus) and read higher than most boards. The temp is much closer to reality than other boards (like Asus). Would be helpful to know the water temps too. Stick a thermometer in the res.

[Slammin]

P4-3.4@4.1 and 1.5vcore? That sounds like way too much vcore, but anywho.

I also have a Max3 and my idle is usually around 47-48 with max topping out at 53c. This is my second max3 mobo and the old one read the same. On air (SP-94), my max was around 65c. This is with a P4-3.0@3.9 1.46vcore.

With water, same chip is now 4.1 with 1.43 vcore, so I disregard the temps for the most part since I can OC higher but with less vcore and lower max temp.

[L33M]

See Intel Rig in sig, note that I'm running a BIX2 and also water cooling the vid card in series with the CPU...

ambient = 22C
case temp = 28C
cpu idle = 32-33C
cpu load, double Prime = 52C
cpu load, typical gaming = mid to high 40Cs

Rad is mounted inside the case but draws from outside.

Sig says I'm running 1.55 vcore, but that was during burn-in, have now backed off to 1.475 (or something close to that).

[RangerXLT8]

When I firsst set up my WC, I installed the TDX backwards in the loop so the water was flowing through the block the wrong direction. Someone on this forum pointed my mistake out to me and when I reversed the block I saw a decent drop in temps. Will get a pic up in a moment.

[lbbo2002]

I got to get a picture up but at the moment don't have one so use your imagination :)

Mid Tower with 1 120mm intake fan, 2 92mm exit, 92mm blow hole, 3 x 120 mm on RAD at the bottom front of the case with the fans sucking, RAD on mounted on the outside of the front side of the case.

Res > Punp > Block > RAD > Res is my loop.

The block showed good contact from the spread of the AC5, just a very light coat of the stuff and its looked good from the imprint. So that leaves maybe its on backwards. So if RangerXLT8 you could post a pic that would help as I followed the PDF off DD site.

As for air I have a very small bubble from the singe 5 1/4 bay res I have but the air stays in the res and doesn’t move thought lines that I can see. Any tips on get it all out of a singe 5 1/4 res? Other than submersing it I can see how.

[Jas]

You actually want a VERY small air gap in your res, thats exactly what it is for, to remove any gasses from the coolant.

[L33M]

As for air I have a very small bubble from the singe 5 1/4 bay res I have but the air stays in the res and doesn’t move thought lines that I can see. Any tips on get it all out of a singe 5 1/4 res?If you have the HTPE res (white translucent plastic) it is impossible to get all the air out. I've tried everything. And Jas is probably right, it's good to have a little air gap in there. However, this res can be pretty noisy with too much air in it.

I would suggest you run your system for awhile, several days at least, with the reservoir cap loose or off, to allow the system to bleed properly. It takes quite awhile of running to allow all of the entrapped gases to be released. Make sure you have a towel or something over the res opening to catch any splashing.

[Jas]

The bay Res has allot of surface area for the gasses to escape form the coolant. As long as you don't see air being sucked into the outlet tube, you should be golden.

[lbbo2002]

OK I got a few pics of my system. Do I have the Water Block on correctly?

http://xs37.xs.to/pics/05283/waterblock.jpg (http://xs.to)

Edit the images

[JudgeDredd]

Yes, you have the flow going in the right direction on the waterblock. You did the tubing real weird though. If you had the water leaving the waterblock go directly to the resevoir, and then to the radiator, and finally to the pump, you would cut down on your tubing a lot and probably increase your flowrate. From what it sounds like, you have a an awsome radiator with great airflow and a great waterblock with good mounting contact. The only thing I can think of is low flowrate.

Another way I would do it is, after the pump, go directly to the radiator, then to the block, and finally to the resevoir. You might also try lowering the resevoir down to the bottom bay to cut down head loss a little.

I wouldn't tear it down yet though, wait for some other opinions.

EDIT: You also posted the same picture twice.

[lbbo2002]

Pic 2

http://xs37.xs.to/pics/05283/Water1.jpg (http://xs.to)

[Jas]

The Res should feed the pump. You can hurt your flow rates and get some pretty nasty oscilations in a bay res if you don't feed the outlet to the pump.

I would check yrou tubbing, looks liek you have some extra length in your tubing so you can put the side panel on. I'm wondering if maybe one or more of your tubs are kgetting a kink in them when you put the panel on?

[lbbo2002]

Jas it is possible that when closed it kinks. I have left the case "extended" off the side to try that theory out. No change with 2-3 hours of running. Temp of the water is 33C based on temp reading from the Res so I think its time to take it apart and check out the flow rate piece by piece. From how much water is jetting into the RES it seems to be moving peaty good.

I think I will recheck again the mounting of the water block that its making good contact as that or kink (low flow somewhere) is hampering the performance.

Thanks everyone for contributing. I will check the flows at different areas and work from there, if as I suspect, the waterblock is on OK. At least I put it on right :)

[SewerBeing]

33C sounds a little high but what is your room temperature so that we can be sure?

that looks like it would kink if you close it though. Also I would relocate the rad because right now you are killing its airflow

[lbbo2002]

SewerBeing the room temp is 27C there abouts give or take a few with the other machines I have running it goes up or down a little.

Relocating the Res to the lowest bay would be possible... what's the best why to drain the system? Never thought about that until now :shrug:

[SewerBeing]

the res is fine where it is I'm talking about moving the rad not the res. And with 27C room temp 33C on water is quite fine. To drain it I simply take off tubing one at a time, let the water flow out and remove it from the loop. Its very easy to do and rather controlled since you arn't using anything else except the tubing. However it can be messy so have a towel and bucket ready.

[Jas]

Without a fill or drain line, what I have done is to get a decent sized bucket, and place one component in the bucket as the lowest point in your loop, pump, res, doesn't really matter (although some pumps you may not want to get soaking wet). Then disconnect one tube, and let the coolant flow out. Let it drain till nothing else comes out. then just carefully remove the other components, and or tubing (you will probably still have some coolant in your rad, and water block, so just be extra careful when disconnecting those.

[Slammin]

I find it helpful to use AA batteries to plug up the already drained lines too, since it really hard to tell where the next 'splash' might come from.

[lbbo2002]

Thanks for the suggestions I will get a chance tonight to disassemble and then compare the results those above.

[alinosa]

just some extra info on temps (to get a broader base): on stock cooling (yuck) idle was high 40's and load was just plain scary at 60+. With the components in sig, idle at 30/31 and full load (dual prime) is 40/41 1.425 volts on cpu (262x16).