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Cylindrical Reservoir?

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perfectturmoil

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2004
Location
Hillbillyville
Hey guys.. I am planning my watercooling setup.. and I want to have a Cylindrical Reservoir in my system (for looks and ease).

Where can I find one of these damned things? There must be somewhere that I am not looking.. I don't want a bay reservoir.. I would rather a T line than one of those.

The only ones I have seen are very cheap looking.. VERY cheap looking..

any suggestions?
 
Your best bet is probably to build your own. For the cylinder, check out page 3315 at McMaster-Carr. Also, I've seen several different "styles" of cylindrical reservoirs--with dividers, with tubes, will fill-ports, with side inlets, with bottom inlets/outlets, those that make a vortex and those that don't--which type did you want?
 
Actually this can be made just as easy as pvc and look a little better if you use Acrylic 4" tube or whatever diamiter you wish. There are a few links to plastic supply all you realy need is a small sheet of extruded or cast acrylic and a half tube of the size you want wether 2 , 3 or , 4". Use the recomended bonding agent and throw a led on it for effect. Whalah you have a clear tube rez for under 30 dollers in omst cases.

I recomend Acrylite GP acrylic and Weld #4 witch is a cohesive (fuses both ends) cement for any joints used with a cappillary method.

As for just buying one made...
http://www.frozencpu.com/scan/se=Water Cooling/se=Reservoirs/mp=menu_search.html
 
MmCheeto, have you ever used Weld-On #16? I was wondering if the "thicker" agent worked as well as the thinner one. I don't have a band saw so getting "perfect" cuts on the tubing is difficult at best and I would like to know how much the thicker agent will make up for flaws in the cutting/sanding when attaching the end pieces.
 
Yes I have . Weld #16 is actually an adhesive cement that will fill gaps and cracks but its a much weaker joint. Where as a viscous weldon #4 is a cohesive and actualy breaks down the acrylic and joins it in a fused like seam. As long as you have a flat smooth serface on both ends you wish to glue the weld#4 works the best. Sence its really fast drying you can mix 1part Weld#5 to 3 parts weld#4 to slow the cureing and allow you to work with it a little longer. :cool:
 
MVC said:
I don't have a band saw so getting "perfect" cuts on the tubing is difficult at best.

Actualy if you have a table saw this can work as well. With a table saw you can use a blade that has 90 tooth count or more witch will give you a very clean cut. As for fixing the flaws. Just think of the edges as un laped blocks. Sand them just like you would a CPU block only on a larget scale.

Also If you unsure about your edjes I would recomend using weldon #4 for the seam and go back with weldon #16 to fill any voids and ansure a good seam. I have had to do this to fill major gaps and works very well in combo just dont mix the two together. Wait till the #4 cures for a day and then use the #16 :)
 
Thanks. I guess I'll have to work on my finishing of the edges--I don't need a weaker joint inside my computer! So much for an easy "fix."
 
MmCheeto said:
Also If you unsure about your edjes I would recomend using weldon #4 for the seam and go back with weldon #16 to fill any voids and ansure a good seam. I have had to do this to fill major gaps and works very well in combo just dont mix the two together. Wait till the #4 cures for a day and then use the #16 :)
This is an excellent suggestion! Get the best bond I can with the #4 and then "patch" the rest with #16. I like this :D.

Just so you know, I live in an apartment in New York so I don't really have room for a table saw :) but, I can get a good base cut with a clamped jig saw and then get the edges flat with a bench sander (my largest tool, but I can stash it under the kitchen table when it isn't in use).

This is very do-able. Vortex, here I come :D. Thank you very much!
 
lol glad to be of some help my friend :santa:

If you decide to get the acrylic from any retailor or supply place they normally will cut the pices for you as a curtosy. If they want to charge you then I would siriously consider paying up for a good clean cut, Then all you have to do is sand your heart out lol. Anyways have fun and show us some pics when you have something :)
 
Well.... here's my current system right after installing the G5 last weekend. I've just got a few ideas on a new reservoir, so.... :D
 

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I got the case as a stock V2100 from Newegg. Everything not stock I did.

But, the door is getting on my nerves so I'm planning on moving the whole thing into a V2000 and after building this one I've "discovered" a few changes I'd like to make. But, I'm not in a big hurry so I'd like to experiment a bit with cylindrical reservoirs and build in a vortex. Since I plan to take the radiator external I'll have plenty of room, so....

Glad you like it, it is a fun toy :D Now if I can keep my older daughter from running off with it when she's here in August....
 
Very nice setup indeed! Love the wire harnessing for the harddrives :thup:

BTW, to get a nice cut on a piece of large tubing, I use a piece of masking tape sticky side out around the tube, stretched as tight as it will go. This makes a square line around the tube that's easy to follow with a marker for your cut line. Then I just cut it slowly with a hacksaw.
I then take a full sheet of 100 grit sandpaper and tape it onto a board, and lap the cut end smooth. Follow up with some 400 or 600 grit wet/dry on a cuttingboard in the kitchen sink for some very smooth ends.
Then capillary type cement is no bother at all.
 
Thanks Diggrr. I'll try it. Doing square edges isn't too difficult, but this'll be my first foray into cylinders so any help and/or advice is very appreciated. I’m sure I’ll still kill the first few pieces I work with, but that's how I learn :)
 
Use PVC for learning curve pieces. Much cheaper, and "works" much the same.
 
Diggrr said:
Use PVC for learning curve pieces. Much cheaper, and "works" much the same.
I found four somewhat used but servicable 2.5" by 10" acrylic tubes on ebay for $5.00. I figure these'll be my practice peices while I learn. I just haven't gotten around to actually doing the learning yet... If I could wish for anything, it would be more TIME!
 
I wish I would have known about the #16 this past weekend. I spent hours trying to make a box shaped res out of acrylic sheet with a table saw only to find that it was about impossible to get really straight cuts. I used #4, used clear silicone adhesive on the edges to seal the gaps, and got it watertight, but it looks lousy. Anyone have a link as to where you can get the #16 weld-on? I had a hard time finding the #4 back when I ordered it.
 
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