A few questions

I have a 3000+ winchester overclocked to 2.1ghz and using cool-n-quiet, a 6800GT and a Thermaltake V5000A case and would like to make it both cooler and quieter than my current air cooled setup. I've decided to get the brass TDX, Maze4, MCP655 and MCT-5 and to build a shroud on top of the case to mount two Black Ice Pros or one Pro2 with two ~40cfm 120mm fans pushing air.

Now on to the questions...

Would it be better to have one double fan radiator or two smaller radiators with one before the cpu and the other between the cpu and video card? Then the water would be cooled before each of the blocks instead of passing the warm water from the cpu to video card. Is there a disadvantage to this because I haven't seen anyone doing it?


Since both radiators are on top, would it be better to put the water blocks in parallel (I know series is better than parallel) than to have tubing going down to cpu, back up to second radiator and back down to video card?


How effective would a fanless radiator be? Could one or both of the fans be turned off when the cpu and video card are idle?

I will be making my own reservoir from an 8oz bottle I found. What is the best placement for the fittings? Both at bottom or outlet at bottom and inlet just below top of fluid? I would only be filling it about half way.

Can MCT-5 be dyed blue? If so, where can I find some non-conductive non-UV blue dye?

Is there any place online that sells 7/16" Tygon tubing by the foot?

I'm also looking for an unrestrictive fitting where one side is screwed into the water block and the other side barbed for tubing but the fitting itself can be closed and then disconnected without leaking on either side. Does such a fitting exist? The quick-disconnects don't appear to close. Would be nice if I could disconnect the loop from my cpu and video card without draining it or removing the water blocks.

WELCOME TO THE FORUMS!

www.mcmaster.com should sell the tubing by the foot.

On to your setup question I would go with 1 double 120 mm radiator because its less restrictive than 2 120mm rads. The way you setup your loop should be so that you use the least amount of tubing otherwise it does not matter. To your reservoir question I recommend you do not build one but instead get a T-line (T fitting and cap) because it will be less likely to leak. If you have not ordered your components yet I recommend you get a Swiftech Storm (or MCW6002) and a Black Ice Extreme II (or a 1977 Pontiac Bonneville (with a/c) heatercore (for which you will need a shroud and 2 120mm fans directions on how to mod it are in the sticky section)).

I use the dual Rad setup in my system. However, it would be recomended to go with a single larger rad.

As for self sealing barbs. I know things liek that exist for compressed air system (I used to be into paintball and used to build custom Autocockers, anyhoo). I have seen some connectors that offer quick disconnections, but the ones I have seen were for external systems, and were remale ends to except tubing on each side. I've only seen these on manufatured external systems, but I'm sure you could track soem down.

That being said, I personally think its more hassle than needed. Disconnecting your loop for draining/maintenance isn't that tough. A really easy way to do this is to buld a "double T line" system. In a nut shell you have yuor main T line for your filling and bleeding. But you have a second one sealed elsewhere in your loop. This enables yotu to open one T line up, and then the other and get a fast and easy drain on the system.

I've taken to building systems lately using this aproach but with Two Y lines, looping the tubing into the pump, giving me a fill line at teh top, and a drain line at the bottom. I was going to attach a pic but the forums apparently don't want me too.

@ SewerBeing

www.mcmaster.com sells just about every other size of tubing but 7/16" is not one of them.

I was going to get a Storm but decided against it after reading about the jets getting clogged with metal and I heard the MCW6002 can't be opened to clean it out.


I went with the Black Ice Pro because I'm running my fans at low speed and thinner radiators cool better at low speeds than the thicker ones such as the Extreme.


@ Jas

I don't think schrader valves would work too well in a low pressure water system. A disconnectable fitting with a ball valve on both sides of the joint would work and not restrict water flow but it would probably be ~4" long.

I will probably use that "double T line" system but keep my reservoir.

Go with Mcmaster part #5233K44 for tubing, its good stuff.

I also have always been using a double T idea to have a drain line at the bottom the the loop with a ball valve on it. This sure makes draining and flushing easy. You really don't need a t-line to bleed bubbles out and a reservoir also.

There normally is not that much of a temp difference between components run in series from each other. A single rad involves less tubing making it easier to route tubing and usually does not slow down flow/pressure as much as two rads, hence you end up with a little better cooling.

Brand: you can open the Storm and clean it though and it is a very rare occurance and mainly happens on the Cathar Storm G5 however the Swiftech Storm is based on the G4 model which has not really had these clogging issues. Also to clean the block you can run vinegar through it for 5-6min then clean it, and repeat until clean.

Acurax: thats the tubing I was talking about

I just purchased my parts and went with the Storm, Black Ice Pro III (two fans only), 1/2" Tygon and a double T setup.

Where would be the best place in the loop to put the fill tube?



Between cpu and gpu? gpu and pump? pump and rad? rad and cpu?

Put the t-line (fillport) before the pump. If you use an oversized T fitting (say 3/4") to slow the water's velocity it will act as a mini-reservoir and substantially improve the time it takes to bleed the system--with the water moving slower through the larger pipe the air bubbles will have more time to go up the t-line. And, the 1/2 ID, 3/4" OD Tygon will stretch over a 3/4" OD barb with a little bit of effort.

And, the 1/2 ID, 3/4" OD Tygon will stretch over a 3/4" OD barb with a little bit of effort

Click to expand...

I'm doing good to get it over 5/8" barbs! I use 5/8" barbs for everything. If you can't get the hose over a 3/4" t, try a 5/8" t instead. I get mine from ACE.

Putting the t-line before the pump's inlet helps keep from running the pump dry while filling.

voigts said:

I'm doing good to get it over 5/8" barbs! I use 5/8" barbs for everything. If you can't get the hose over a 3/4" t, try a 5/8" t instead. I get mine from ACE.

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Are you using Tygon? My 7/16" ID 11/16" OD 1/8" wall Tygon had no problems going over the 5/8" barbs on my Iwaki. The larger 1/2" tubing should be able to make the stretch to 3/4", but maybe not. I should still have some 3/4" barbs at home--I'll have to try it after work and see if I'm mis-remembering testing this a while back.

Edit: corrected tubing dimensions.

I use both Tygon and Clearflex60. I can get it over 5/8" with dishsoap and heat, and it might go over 3/4", but as much trouble as it is to get 1/2" over 5/8" fittings, I for one don't want to try getting it over 3/4".

I just bought a couple 5/8" T fittings but my clamps won't fit over them. Do I need to find clamps for them or will they not leak due to the oversized barbs?

They probably won't leak being stretched over 5/8" barbs, but I would go to an ACE hardware or something and get a couple of clamps just to play it safe (I happen to be a metal clamp man myself). I feel better with something clamped down so that I know it can't leak.

Agreed. I want something besides friction holding the tubing in place. But, if you don't want to buy more metal clamps, you can use zip-ties to hold the tubing in place; just tighten them with a pair of needle-nose pliers and they won't go anywhere. FWIW, the worm-drive clamps for 3/4" OD tubing I bought from McMaster-Carr worked well on the 11/16" OD I'm currently using for most of my tubing as well as the 7/8" OD tubing I've got going from the reservoir to the pump. I didn't realize there was such a big difference in "standard" clamps.

That MVC is exactly why I keep recommending those smooth lined worm drive clamps from mcmaster (5076K13). I bought some a while ago and they are fantastic.

I'm pretty sure those are the same ones I've got--I don't feel like going through receipts to find the model number of the ones I bought to verify it. They are great!

voigts said:

That MVC is exactly why I keep recommending those smooth lined worm drive clamps from mcmaster (5076K13). I bought some a while ago and they are fantastic.

Click to expand...

Ill have to get some of them for my self.