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Setup and Bleeding a T-Line?

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Motoxpro32s

Registered
Joined
Jul 5, 2005
I just got my WC Setup and I was wonder what you guys did to setup yours. Canyou take me through the steps please? Like what you took out, leak testing, what pc components you had in when u installed it and stuff like that. And also what do I do to bleed a t-line? Do I need to have the computer running? Any thoughts and help would be greatly appriciated.
 
Welcome, if you haven't been already...

When I built my wc, I assembled the parts inside an empty case, and leak tested for a rediculous amount of time (days). After it was all set and ready to go, I put my computer hardware in.

For bleeding a t-line, the computer itself does not need to be running, only the watercooler. Leaving the pump running will eventually bleed the system, although it could take as long as 24 hours or more. Patience is the tool to bleeding a t-line system.

EDIT: also, once the wc is running, tilting or shaking the case can help get trapped air out of the components, especially the radiator.
 
do you keep water in the system while you are putting in your mobo psu vga ect?
 
Yes if you dont want to refill and re-bleed with your components in place.


This is how i am going to do it:

Place all components in, with blocks / pump ect. Measure and cut tubing to fit on perfectly. Then ill put everythign together, jump the power supply and bleed it with everything attached. Except my computer wont be on, just my power supply / watercooling
 
Yes, I did. I assmembled the wc inside the empty case, leak tested, and then installed all the computer hardware leaving the entire wc system intact.

You should know, that this isn't necessarily the 'right' way to do it (not that it's wrong) but everyone most likely does it a little differently than the rest. Go with whatever process is easiest and most comfortable with you, and you can never be too careful.
 
NO! Use distilled water. Tap water has too many minerals and stuff for PC watercooling. Make sure you add some kind of anticorrosive (i.e 15% antifreeze) and some kind of biocide like iodine or (pet section) algaecide to make sure nothing grows.

I like to assemble everything in the case, then figure out routing and add the watercooling stuff, and then just run the pump only with a spare PSU that I keep on hand, overnight. I use Mcmaster smooth worm drive metal clamps on every connection tightened down a lot. That way I am not concerned at all about leaks where I have clamps. If something was to leak anyway, it won't hurt anything as long as the computer itself is not on. I also make sure to wiggle things around a bit while the pump is running just to be sure nothing leaks. My system mostly bleeds itself out overnight.
 
Thanks, Where can I get the water from? like home depot or somthing? Also should I fill my t-line all the was to teh very brim or leave some air inbetween the water and the cap? Thanks for all the help, im new and I want to make sure I have everything :)
 
You can use basic grocery store distilled water, it costs roughly $1 per gallon, and is readily available in the water isle at the store.

Coolant mixture is of preference, with me personally seeing 15% antifreeze as too much. That much antifreeze will cost you degrees, as antifreeze does not have the thermal capacity that water has. I actually think any antifreeze is too much, I use water wetter only. Again, this is all personal preference, you should try different coolant solutions and see what works best for you. At any rate, if you decide to go with antifreeze, use a minimum of 5%. Algecide is def a good idea, so you dont get any algea growth and such. The water wetter I refer to is available at auto stores under the brand name Redline, if you are interested in trying it out. Be warned, that water wetter is likely to cloud your tubing and turn the coolant a weird color, but these arent big deals if you plan to use a dye in your loop. Also, water wetter stinks pretty bad. Not a big deal on a closed-loop system.

I would leave room for air in the t-line, it does not need to be filled to the top.
 
citronym said:
You can use basic grocery store distilled water, it costs roughly $1 per gallon, and is readily available in the water isle at the store.

Coolant mixture is of preference, with me personally seeing 15% antifreeze as too much. That much antifreeze will cost you degrees, as antifreeze does not have the thermal capacity that water has. I actually think any antifreeze is too much, I use water wetter only. Again, this is all personal preference, you should try different coolant solutions and see what works best for you. At any rate, if you decide to go with antifreeze, use a minimum of 5%. Algecide is def a good idea, so you dont get any algea growth and such. The water wetter I refer to is available at auto stores under the brand name Redline, if you are interested in trying it out. Be warned, that water wetter is likely to cloud your tubing and turn the coolant a weird color, but these arent big deals if you plan to use a dye in your loop. Also, water wetter stinks pretty bad. Not a big deal on a closed-loop system.

I would leave room for air in the t-line, it does not need to be filled to the top.

I got mine for like $.52/gal :rolleyes: anyway, some biocide is always a good idea. Most people say anti-freeze is enough, however I've seen stories here where people have had growth long term in a loop with just anti-freeze and distilled water. Becuase of this I have a personal recomendation of adding Iodine to the loop as well. http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=372356 Gives a general idea how much to add. Not to mention its cheap, doesn't smell, or color the tubing (can't see the color over my yellow anit-freeze)
 
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