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durf
07-19-05, 11:04 AM
I just bought a new Dual Core P4 3ghz CPU. My comp room is a warm room during the 100 degree summers so heat has always been an issue for me. I've decided to try water cooling to fix the overheating issue I have with my new pc. I'm trying to find a setup that comes with everything vs. me putting it all together piece by piece. Is there a water cool unit everyone recommends to use? The DTek Flowmaster is the only thing I’ve found that I’ve heard somewhat mentioned in previous forums.

Thanks

SewerBeing
07-19-05, 11:08 AM
Water cooling will help you however, have you considered simply remounting the stock cooling with Arctic Silver 5 which should help your temps and save you a lot of money. However if you really want water cooling please tell us what your budget is and do you want absolute performance or quiet?

Jas
07-19-05, 11:10 AM
Generally speaking, is just as easy to "piece it together" yourself, and generally not any more expensive . In fact you can even save money.

I personally woudl recomend you spend some time reading the forums, predominately the stickies, and get an idea of what it is you are wanting to achieve, and within what price range.

Once you have an idea of how much money you want to spend, and what all you wish to accomplish (quietness, pure cooling power, biggest bang for the buck, etc) we can begin to recomend, or point you in the direction of components that would fit your needs.

ls7corvete
07-19-05, 11:13 AM
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=397566

I second a re-mounting. You should not see overheating with stock heatsink if you are not overclocking. You should be able to fix that easy enough.

durf
07-19-05, 11:15 AM
Tried the Artic Silver and had no luck with that. My budget is about 150-200 max. Need to save some money for a new case since my case only has the dual 80mm fans in the back. As far performance or quietness a mixture of both is good. I'm not really looking to overclock as of right now just trying to keep it cool period.

Jas
07-19-05, 11:23 AM
Well, most cases will require at least some modding to fit in decent water cooling. Unfortunately most radiators are meant for 120mm fans. You can get 80mm radiators, although to be honest, you can get about as good of performance fomr a top end air solution as you can with a smaller 80mm solution.

SewerBeing
07-19-05, 11:31 AM
given your budget you can probably do this:

CPU: MCW6002 (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcw6002.asp)
Pump: MCP350 (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp350.asp)
Radiator: 1977 Pontiac Bonneville (sticky on modding it is in the sticky section) + shroud + 2x120mm fans
Tubing: 7/16" ID with 3/32" Wall can be had at www.mcmaster.com

The pump and the bock can be had at most major online cooling retailers such as: www.frozencpu.com and others.

Jas
07-19-05, 11:43 AM
I'd second sewers recomendation. However, I would suggest going with 1/2" ID tubbing if you opt to not put barbs on the heater core. The 7/16" will be a royal pain to slip over the tubes (not impossible to do, but would be easier with 1/2")

Otherwise, thats a definate winner.

SewerBeing
07-19-05, 11:51 AM
Jas if you heat the tubing it becomes easier to work with. Also I don't see why it wouldn't it in the end, it would just be a little harder to get it over the pipe.

Stewie
07-19-05, 11:53 AM
Although the setup mentioned above is going to need some sort of coupling for the MCP350 since it's made for 3/8" ID and 7/16" > 3/8".

SewerBeing
07-19-05, 12:00 PM
Stewie if he wants to go the easy way he can probably just use hose clamps and it would work. However the safest way is to get a coupling and use 3/8" tubing.

Jas
07-19-05, 12:01 PM
Jas if you heat the tubing it becomes easier to work with. Also I don't see why it wouldn't it in the end, it would just be a little harder to get it over the pipe.

Yeah, the Hot water trick will help. He;s gonan want soem soft tubing if he goes that route. You know, some silicone based 50 duromter stuff migh tnot be too bad gettin gover th etubes at 7/16" ID.

durf
07-19-05, 12:33 PM
According to Intel I need to return my CPU because they think it's defective. I shouldn't be having the issues I'm having. I tried using the http://www.circotech.com/cooler-master-r-120-aquagate-mini-liquid-cooling-system-r-120.html this and it overheated to the point the back of my case was getting hot.

Jas
07-19-05, 12:38 PM
Well, that cooling solution doesn't look great. But I doubt it woudl performe any worse that a stock cooler. Then again, coudl be wrong.

Why exactly does intel think its defective?

durf
07-19-05, 12:49 PM
After boot I’m sitting at 64-65c which isn’t a big deal. Give it less than a min. and I’m sitting at 70c and climbing if I choose to leave it on. I haven’t let it stay on after 72c for fear of frying something. Tried an all copper heat sink and that didn’t work that’s when I tried that cool master setup, all with the same results. The Cool Master setup stayed below 67c the longest but once the backside of the case started to heat up from the radiator it was all over.

Jas
07-19-05, 12:52 PM
hrmm, now you used thermal paste and all that goodness right?

durf
07-19-05, 12:57 PM
Yea the Artic Silver stuff. Intel's first responce was to get a new case because I didn't have the new Thermal Tunnel the recommend.

Jas
07-19-05, 01:00 PM
Ok.

First, whats teh airflow in yoru case look liek, as in how many case fans do you have, what sizes, and where are they.

Second, have you tried reseating the heat sink?

SewerBeing
07-19-05, 01:01 PM
Are you sure that the heatsink if mounted properly? I know you've tried a lot of different solutions but can you move the heatsink/waterblock after you mounted it? Is the AS5 spreading properly?

durf
07-19-05, 01:05 PM
I’ve reseated the heat sink numerous times between all the switching of stuff I’ve done, each time cleaning and applying compound.

The case has 1 120mm fan front bottom, and a total of 4 80mm fans, 1 top, 1 side, and 2 on the back.

See the frustration I'm facing.

citronym
07-19-05, 01:12 PM
I know its all frustrating but I have to second SewerBeing and wonder what the paste looks like when you pull of block off. Does it appear to be getting close contact? Is it pushed out around the edges of the die?

durf
07-19-05, 01:14 PM
It covers the surface of the CPU some of it falling off the sides in some areas.

Jas
07-19-05, 01:23 PM
How are you applying the paste? Spreading it, or the tiny blob in the middle?

durf
07-19-05, 01:24 PM
Blob in the middle and letting the heat sink spread in once it's snapped in place.

Stewie
07-19-05, 01:26 PM
Your best luck would be to add a small amount to the CPU die, and then use some sort of straight edge (or toothpick) to spread the compound so there's a very thin layer coating the entire die. You don't want it too think because your performace will suffer.

SewerBeing
07-19-05, 01:27 PM
ok it sounds like you are doing it properly. I really think that there is something wrong with the cpu because that should not happen.

Stewie: it should not suffer to that point though his problems are not as or mounting related from what he has been telling us

Jas
07-19-05, 01:28 PM
Ok, well I'm assumign you are following the AS5 instructions.

Perhaps the heat sink is warped? If you have a mirror, take a sharpie, and using a ruler make some grid lines on the base of the heat sink. set it on its side on top of the mirror, and look in th emorrir at is and see if the grid lines look warped. If they are, then the base of your heat sink is out of whack and may need a serious lapping.

durf
07-19-05, 01:33 PM
I wouldn't think that warping is an issue because I've used an all copper sink and that mini Cool Master unit. Granted the all copper unit I'm not sure was too much of an upgrade from the stock one. I will be taking the CPU and sink back to Fry's tonight to switch out for a new one per Intel's recommendation, but will my current case be enough to keep it cool?

Jas
07-19-05, 01:36 PM
It definately sound sleik yuo have adequate case cooling. Yeah RMa that cpu. If the new one you get does the same thing, then you may have a voltage issue on your motherboard. But hopefully its just a bad CPU.

GOOD LUCK!

durf
07-19-05, 01:43 PM
I hope that's it cause I've been going at this a week now and it's driving me nuts. You think I should still go with that DTek Overflow unit as my main cooler since my comp. room stays warm during the summers?

SewerBeing
07-19-05, 01:44 PM
durf I would get the new cpu and see what it does. I do not think new water cooling would be needed.

Stewie
07-19-05, 01:45 PM
ok it sounds like you are doing it properly. I really think that there is something wrong with the cpu because that should not happen.

Stewie: it should not suffer to that point though his problems are not as or mounting related from what he has been telling us

Indeed, but I've installed my fair share CPU + HS (I do it almost daily on both servers and workstations), and I've found that proper application can often make a large difference in temps. (I've seen upwards of 5C before).

I was simply making the suggestion as it could be one of the things adding to an already bad situation. Dropping a few *C by simply reapplying thermal compound is nothing to scoff at.

SewerBeing
07-19-05, 01:49 PM
Indeed, but I've installed my fair share CPU + HS (I do it almost daily on both servers and workstations), and I've found that proper application can often make a large difference in temps. (I've seen upwards of 5C before).

I was simply making the suggestion as it could be one of the things adding to an already bad situation. Dropping a few *C by simply reapplying thermal compound is nothing to scoff at.

5C with his temps would still get him 55C+ at boot which is still insanely high and should not be happening.

Jas
07-19-05, 01:56 PM
durf I would get the new cpu and see what it does. I do not think new water cooling would be needed.

Agree 100%. assuming it is your cpu there are plenty of aircooling soultions out there that will suit your needs.

durf
07-19-05, 03:09 PM
Thanks guys I will let you know how it turns out within the next day or so.

durf
07-19-05, 11:41 PM
Well the fix was resetting CMOS, not really sure why it worked but it did. Now the CPU runs anywhere between 62-64c under no load. I put a load on it I have to pop the case open and place a fan on it to keep it below 69c. I still need to drop it by a couple degrees without popping the case open and placing a fan on it.