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View Full Version : Is the 12v output of computers PSU's equal to 12v output of a car's battery?


Sanscor
07-21-05, 03:39 PM
Whats up people?

Although my question may be stupid to some of you, my ignorance makes
me ask this....
The reason of it its because i have some things that are used in car equipment as: 12" neon lights and some strobic lights (the ones that produces a flash) and i was wondering if i could use them to mod my pc.

If anyone helps me, i'll be very happy.

PD: i'll appreciate to know which cables do i have to conect to have a 12v current.

Thanks in advance!

Sanscor,
Asuncion-Paraguay

sunrunner20
07-21-05, 07:27 PM
12v is 12v. But I would check to see if it works with an old junky PSU.

Grimdeath
07-21-05, 08:14 PM
Your 12v rail can't supply anything near the amperage your battery can source. Check the power requirements of what you want to connect to what your supply can source on that rail.

four4875
07-21-05, 09:26 PM
a car's "12V" supply is usually around 14V in reality, and can get higher, to around like 18V. the stuff designed to run on a car will usually run fine on the comp's PSU. be careful with high draw items, like amps. I killed my precious antec 400 watt psu with my rockford amp, a bit of a mistake. ive had a 15 inch black light running from a matx psu for almost 2 years now, before that it was in a car. headliner got mangled, cused the light to fall and break off the mounting tabs.

but as lng as the current is safe (no more than an amp i'd say) connect to a yellow wire for the +12 and a black for the negative, and you'll have 12V. lights might not be quite as bright tho, from the lower voltage.

larva
07-21-05, 09:36 PM
a car's "12V" supply is usually around 14V in reality, and can get higher, to around like 18V. That's not really a factor, as electrical devices sold for cars are designed for a nominal 12V. They must be able to withstand 14, but are designed for a 12V source.

JCLW
07-21-05, 10:33 PM
2 volt lead acid cells charge at 2.40v and float at 2.26v. For a 12v (six cell) battery this means a 14.4v charge and a 13.6v float. Most car regulators are set around 14.2v. Anything above 15.0v will cause permanent damage to a 12V car battery.

You can get 12V off a molex plug that should run a few not too bright lights without any problems. I'd consider adding a 5A inline fuse (available from radio shack or any marine store) into your lighting circuit as well.

FyreDaug
07-22-05, 12:17 PM
And neons dont draw much for current. Go for it, Ive done it.

Sanscor
07-22-05, 06:14 PM
Men... THANKS A LOT!!!

Will try this at home and will reply with outcome by monday... if its possible will
also take a picture of it for you.

See ya.
Me.

Sanscor
07-25-05, 07:29 AM
People...

It works... nice and easy...

make the tests with a "cheapo" PSU of 300w (so says the manufacturer) and it worked
fine... and i may say that it has the same light intensity as it has in the car.

Put it in the side panel window and it lights all the components very well... althought
my case is kindda "s" (u know the word), it really gives it something...

Sadly i coulnd get pics of it yet.

Thank you all for the help.

Me. :p

JCLW
07-25-05, 08:57 AM
Glad you got it working :)