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Neptune
10-14-01, 09:29 PM
Hey All, I just thought I'd let you all know... The new Athlon XP's matched with some DDR Memory are pretty sweet :) I ran my new XP in my main PC for a few days, and It brought my WU average down to about 3.5 hours or so.

I have two computers, my main rig consists of 1.4ghz T-bird @ 1.8+ with 512mb of DDR memory. I was going to leave the XP in here, but I don't want to waste the CPU (I don't leave this one on all of the time), so i've decided to put the 1800+ XP in my other system which is a SETI only machine... This really ought to help out my WU average... I can't wait till i get another one (let's just hope my girlfriend knows what I want for x-mas this year :D)

So, in conclusion, the overclockers.com SETI team could really use some more XP crunching power, so, you all have your assignment: Get urself an XP!

dugans
10-14-01, 09:45 PM
Amen!

My XP has finally got my ranking moving up again, instead of backwards!

One of these days I'll have to get a real mobo to put it in (the MSI kinda sucks!)

TC
10-14-01, 11:54 PM
My XP just went poof in a stinky cloud of smoke :( Amazingly the mobo survived and I put another XP in and made sure the darn heatsink was on properly this time around.

A warning to anyone with a thermalright SK6 - make sure the notched edge is clearing the raised portion of the socket or else the hsf will not evenly contact the cpu. The SK6 seems to a little problematic in this respect. The only way to tell is make sure the base of the heatsink is right up against the edge of the clip on the side away from the raised portion of the socket.

Funny thing is the system booted at 1333 several times, but refused to load windows. I checked the cpu temp in bios - which is a joke for the most part, and it looked fine at 32C. Finally I shut it down and raised the voltage one notch. It posted and locked right after the ram check. Sat there for a minute, then heard a pop, the lights flickered and I immediately got a whif of that characteristic burned component smell :( The chip literally exploded. Blew arctic silver all over the place. AMD needs to take a hint from Intel the thermal protection dept!

zangler
10-15-01, 12:00 AM
i cant tell you how sad i am to hear that. i have the sk-6, and i want an xp, and now i am scared!

TC
10-15-01, 02:26 AM
Originally posted by zangler
i cant tell you how sad i am to hear that. i have the sk-6, and i want an xp, and now i am scared!

Don't be scared - I've been using this hsf for a long time - it's great, and I knew about this problem, but tonight I got in a hurry and didn't double check. It's easy to make sure it's in the correct position - I just didn't look. If you need a better description of the safety check let me know.

Right now I've got another 1.33GHz XP running at 1660GHz on the same mobo with the same SK6. The SK6 is great - you just have to be aware of the problem and watch out for it - tonight I let my guard down - first AMD chip I've lost to a human error like this, and hopefully the last.

Neptune
10-15-01, 08:12 AM
Thanx for the heads up TC, I've got an SK-6 coming to me shortly.

el
10-15-01, 10:56 PM
TC I believe the XP needs mobo/chipset support to take advantage of the new features of the XP then you won't have to worry about burning them up! At least that is what I heard from the epox board designer at the AOA forum.

sorry about the chip but most of the copper hs have that problem for some reason. my golden gate is very easy to put on the socket lip.

TC
10-15-01, 11:00 PM
Originally posted by el
TC I believe the XP needs mobo/chipset support to take advantage of the new features of the XP then you won't have to worry about burning them up! At least that is what I heard from the epox board designer at the AOA forum.

sorry about the chip but most of the copper hs have that problem for some reason. my golden gate is very easy to put on the socket lip.

I'm running it on the Epox 8K7A - and they issued some bios updates that enable support for the new features such as SSE. The chip is much faster than the same speed Thunderbird, so I think the board is definitely using the new features.

Mictlan
10-16-01, 10:15 AM
Originally posted by TC
My XP just went poof in a stinky cloud of smoke :( Amazingly the mobo survived and I put another XP in and made sure the darn heatsink was on properly this time around.

A warning to anyone with a thermalright SK6 - make sure the notched edge is clearing the raised portion of the socket or else the hsf will not evenly contact the cpu. The SK6 seems to a little problematic in this respect. The only way to tell is make sure the base of the heatsink is right up against the edge of the clip on the side away from the raised portion of the socket.

Funny thing is the system booted at 1333 several times, but refused to load windows. I checked the cpu temp in bios - which is a joke for the most part, and it looked fine at 32C. Finally I shut it down and raised the voltage one notch. It posted and locked right after the ram check. Sat there for a minute, then heard a pop, the lights flickered and I immediately got a whif of that characteristic burned component smell :( The chip literally exploded. Blew arctic silver all over the place. AMD needs to take a hint from Intel the thermal protection dept!

Hey TC, you can try an RMA it to AMD and tell them that your XP eXPloded :) j/k

Neptune
10-16-01, 10:26 AM
I'm going to try and re-unlock my XP - Tell me what you guyz think of this plan.

First, a little backgound. After numerous attempts with the rear defroster method not working or not working well (only a few multipliers) i decided to take some advice from some one over at AOA. So i cut off a small piece of sandpaper and started sanding down the area around the pits in an attempt to lower the OPGA down a bit so the trenches were not so trecherous. Well, I ended up exposing a copper mesh that I did not realize was surrounding the L1 bridges. Now, if I try to connect the bridges, a bit of the defrost kit, or pencil lead, or whatever will make a contact with this mesh. This results in a lock at 11.0 and 11.5.

Now the little dots don't make a connect with the mesh, but its pretty close. Here's my plan.

Get a can of high-temp, non-conductive paint. Mask off the entire chip with the exception of the small L1 bridge area. Cover this area with the paint, effectively covering the coper mesh, and hoperfully, filling in those pits as well.

Next, I carefully scrape away the paint from the L1 dots. From here, I would simply play connect the dots and hope for the best.

What do you think?

zangler
10-16-01, 10:36 AM
i think that is a lot of work on a not cheap chip. why does connective tape not work? it would just suspend the pits right? i would try that before i spray paint my chip.

el
10-16-01, 10:58 AM
Originally posted by TC


I'm running it on the Epox 8K7A - and they issued some bios updates that enable support for the new features such as SSE. The chip is much faster than the same speed Thunderbird, so I think the board is definitely using the new features.

Yeah I know but I believe that the XP does have thermal protection just needs a chipset that can tell the mobo what to do when it gets too hot. I will post in the other forum and try to figure out exactly what type of protection the XP has.

el
10-16-01, 02:54 PM
quote from epox dude

In the future ....................

The V-Link southbridge at present is not adapted to our BIOS in this way.

We hope that 8233A will enable us to link to the Pally's thermal diode in order to get some very accurate temperatures.

I read a lot of forum postings and see end users saying that their temp is 32°C or 60°C because of their onboard probes and asking the question "is my temp. okay?" This causes a great deal of confusion.

Thankfully the die will add accuracy and shut-down safety in overheat conditions - a welcome addition to the processor package.


__________________
EPoX Representative

killem1x1
10-16-01, 10:14 PM
Originally posted by zangler
i think that is a lot of work on a not cheap chip. why does connective tape not work? it would just suspend the pits right? i would try that before i spray paint my chip.
I'm trying to find the best way to unlock mine as well. Why would this not work?

Neptune
10-16-01, 10:31 PM
This was just an attempt to try to fix a mistake, it didn't exactly work. The mesh around the L1 bridges is too exposed.

However, I believe the best method to unlock it is to fill those pits with a non-conductive material, such as a paint or epoxy, and then draw over them.

TC
10-16-01, 11:25 PM
Originally posted by killem1x1

I'm trying to find the best way to unlock mine as well. Why would this not work?

Tape might work. The problem is the pit in between the two connections. It's a little bit difficult to press that tape down firmly on the connections with it wanting to sink down into the pit. I think the best bet is to fill the pit with something, and possibly dare I say - sand it flat and smooth, then use the tape or traditional methods such as pencil or conductive pen.

dugans
10-16-01, 11:29 PM
Defogger kits work! I just unlocked my XP, and I'm doing a SiSoft Sandra burn routine right now.

Takes some time, but I'm running at the 12.5/13 multiplier right now, 1.67Ghz.

Neptune
10-18-01, 12:36 AM
Originally posted by TC


Tape might work. The problem is the pit in between the two connections. It's a little bit difficult to press that tape down firmly on the connections with it wanting to sink down into the pit. I think the best bet is to fill the pit with something, and possibly dare I say - sand it flat and smooth, then use the tape or traditional methods such as pencil or conductive pen.

Do not sand it down!! This is what I tried to do and I revealed a nasty copper mesh around the L1 dots and now I'm pretty much stuck at 11.5x Your best bet is to get some non-conductive epoxy, fill the gaps, then sand that down... oh wait... it just dawned on me, that's probably what you meant, isn't it TC... heh, oh well, its' 1am here... i'm going to bed :)

TC
10-18-01, 12:56 AM
Originally posted by Neptune


Do not sand it down!! This is what I tried to do and I revealed a nasty copper mesh around the L1 dots and now I'm pretty much stuck at 11.5x Your best bet is to get some non-conductive epoxy, fill the gaps, then sand that down... oh wait... it just dawned on me, that's probably what you meant, isn't it TC... heh, oh well, its' 1am here... i'm going to bed :)

That's what I meant :) Don't feel bad - last night I had to ask a moderator for help locating a thread I had just posted!