amd 1.4 getting a little hot

[ddt]

i got a tbird 1.4ghz not clocked any higher with this huge friggin heatsink and fan that came with it, it's nothing special but it's more than twice the size of a celeron heatsink and fan, thing is my cpu is running at 61C!!! is that good or bad?

[WillysNut]

61c is very high! What are you using to monitor the temps? Seems as though many people are showing high temps w/ 1.33 and 1.4 cpus and stock HSF's. You really might want to consider a copper based HSF.

How about case size and ventalation? Do you have at least one fresh air and one exahust air fan?

[flounder43]

Too Hot!

Reseat that Heatsink with some Arctic Silver. Make sure that you clip has enough pressure...

Man that is hot.

How hot is your case?

[Dissolved]

well mine runs 58~66C full load, 26~30C room temp.. TB 1.4ghz, with a gigabyte 7dxr mobo, and the aplha 8045. startup is like 40~50C then raises to like 55~57C then i have UD running (like seti) and that uses 100% cpu so i get 58~66C temps.... i seem to run fine.. the hsf isnt that hot (not as hot as my cak-38 w/ 6800rpm delta i had on it be4...

[NightHawk]

Mine ran that hot too, even with a nice HSF and thermal compound, exchanged both CPU and mobo, and got a new 500W PS, hope that will do something... now just gotta wait for it to get back here... I hate waiting :/

[Dissolved]

yea, when i first got my 7dxr mobo i had it with the 1.4TB and the cak-38 w/ 6800rpm & ac2.. and those temps were 30C room 65~67Cidle 74~76C full load

i got my mobo replaced with a new one..

then i added the aplha 8045 w/ 39 cfm sunon fan and nanotherm paste, so its 27C room 40~50C startup(in bios) 55C idle up to 67C full load.

so i think the new mobo helped..

plus today i noticed my ddr ram runs kinda hot.. so i may have to cool/mod somethings i didnt even think about doing..

oh and i also went from a antec 300w psu to a sparkle 300w, and the sprakle runs alot cooler and its near noiseless.. i just wish sparkle made 400~500w psu's... if the new enermaxs dont come out by mid november, ill probly just buy a 400w sparkle psu.
hope this helped a few ppl.

[jdal]

my 1.4 on abit kg7 runs at 40C idle and around 44C w/ load, i have two fresh air fans in front, and two exhaust fans in back plus ps fan and i have a crappy hsf....

[moonman]

mine's runnin at 43c idle. and around 49c full load. using AS and volcano6cu+ @1.4ghz rite now.. damn it.. I need to cool down more!!!! someone help.

[zangler]

mine is at 45 idle and 49 load

[ddt]

well i think if the newer tbrid 1.4's ship with the hsf's and high temps then maybe that's what they're supposed to run at, but i'm putting another fan on my cpu hsf and two more case fans, one velly small one and one velly velly beeg on, o and i got a full tower case that gets hot when i close it

[Dissolved]

at 218am and 27C room trmp, this is a pic of my mbm5 stats

[Dissolved]

i notice i run 1-2C less with the side panel off...

[Thelemac]

*Moved to "Cooling"*

[m1066ad]

Damn, I thought mine got hot. I've seen 60c playin chess (don't laugh, it's cpu-intensive), but with vcool, it idles in the 20's. I don't have the sides on the case, it's easier to clear the bios that way, anyway, lol.

[ddt]

i got an elitegroup k7s5a, and i need software to monitor the sensors in windows, i got MBM5 but it doesn't work right, also, what is the best prog that can keep your cpu cool (like cpucool)

[NightHawk]

Its pretty funny, my AMD 1.4Tbird had a bigger fan/HSF than my 366a celeron O/Ced to 550... but my celery stayed at 29C idle ~33C full load... but my Tbird would stay at 61C idle and 67C full load...

No wonder AMD offers no warranty...

[Yxel]

43 idle... 55 full load.

2 80mm casefasn in the back of the chassi. 1 6800 rpm cpufan. With globalwin fop 32 heatsink.

But i lowerd my vcore 0.1 voltage. I wont even boot with default vcore ;)

[Yxel]

wrong hs ;)

sorry

[ve6jhc]

I have an Abit KG7 with a 1.4 Tbird....I played the fan game. At one time I had 8 eight fans in my case!!! I was sitting at 43 C idle and 55 C after playing UT for a few hours. The noise was terrible. Now that I am water cooled my CPU is 30 C at idle and 32-35 C after gaming. I tossed all my fans out of my case except for 2 (One in and one out). I had measured my old fan setup with a Rat Shack sound meter (79 decibels) and now with my water setup I am not about to get a sound reading as the meter only goes down to 50 decibels. Bottom line.....Go water cooled if you are serious about real and quiet cooling.

[headnail]

My TBird 1.4Ghz runs hot as well Currently 53C Idle at 33C Case temp. I only have one 80mm sunon fan on the fron and a moded JustCooler that is position right underneath the HSF. I got a GlobalWin WBK heatsink, without the delta fan since I could not stand the noise of that thing (it was the 6800RPM one) and I smacked on a 60mm Sunon fan on it, gonna go get me another 60mm and see how it works with both fans on the HSF also I still have a few 80mm fans that are just waiting for my new case to get chopped up :) When I removed my Titan TTC-D5TB HSF today I noticed something very odd.........my TBird core markings had acteully burnt themselves into the bottom of the heatsink, I don't think its the artic silver since i can't scrape them off.......

[mrilock]

dissolved - I'm interested in that you pointed out you have a 7dxr

I have a 7dx, and a t-bird 1 gig at 1 gig... I was having tempt problems with stock hsf... temps got up to 70c under load so that my mobo would beep warnings.

perhaps the 7dx series just reads temps way wrong? I'd like to see if anyone else has experienced this. Is there an independent way for me to measure my temp?

[Dissolved]

yea could be.....
mbm5 reads 57C
siv(ggiabytes temp program reads 61C
both at full load, 26~27C room temp

[ddt]

i've never heard of this arctic ice, what is it?
here in south africa we have a hard time just finding non-stock heatsinks nevermind fancy case blowers and HSF's

[NightHawk]

Here is what is the weirdest...

I would take my HSF off as soon as I shut it down, and touch the core of the CPU, it wasnt barely warm, surely not the 65C it was displaying... unless it cools down that fast...

[robertm]

I think the Vcore voltage is to high my 1.4 runs at 1.75 even runs
stable at 1.75 at 1539 146 X 10.5 You should not need 1.85 volts
at 1400.

I just started OC so take it easy on me if am wrong :)

[NightHawk]

I have heard that too, yes I left the Vcore at the stock setting for 1.4...

I will play with that once it comes back though, It wont really hurt it to not have enough voltage, right? It will just not work, or be unstable, right?

[mujgy]

no to low of a voltage won't hurt anything it'll just be unstable

thats crazy though 61degrees i have my bios set to shut down at 60degrees ive got my 1.4 ghz t-bird @ 1.62 1.9v runs stable at 49-52degrees max 44-45 idle my case temp is 22-25 (depends on if the furnace is on, i love north dakota) and yes its cold) i bet youve never been outside doing chores when its -80degrees F yes it can be to cold to snow its beautiful outside then cause the air is so dense you can hear things many miles away and the stars are so clear but anyway ;) i just ordered a sk6 with a ys tech fan on it so i can oc high with out useing water yet i have a dd kit but i would say thats a bit high ive never hit that even runing at 1.7 (it was a little shaky and hot ) but i donno

[NightHawk]

Ok great, at least it wont hurt anything...

And snow wise, well I just love my sunny florida, it never snows...

[o¢r*Aiwa]

I've had 3 Athlon Mainboards, 3 T-Birds and lots of experimenting with air-, water- and peltier cooled systems.

Your temperature is absolutely *normal*.

Anyone claiming he is running a T-Bird of 1.2, 1.4 or even more GHz at 40°C (at load) is plain lieing or his mainboard reports wrong numbers. (I am using an A7V133, which traditionally reports very high but accurate)

I am using a modified Maze 2-2 waterblock, a silver spacer and tried Arctic Silver II, special Peltier thermal gel and Frozen Silicon compound. Even at almost CPU-crunshing clamping pressures I could not get the temperature at the back of the CPU core (where the thermistor is located) below 15 degrees above the attached cold-plate's temp (at full load even more :mad: )!

You *can* get the core-temp near cold-plate temperature, but only with software like "CPUcool" after a longer idle state.

So if you have aircooling, 25-30 degrees in your room and 40°C on the CPU check your mainboard or monitoring software. It is straight impossible.

P.S.: Don't freak if your aircooled T-Bird gets 70°C at load. That's normal if your room is warm and the cooler is a "standard" one. The DIE is destroyed at over 90°C and the MoBo should stop operation before it gets dangerous (ASUS boards somewhere in the 80s).

I hope I helped you a bit :)

[popadel]

I had my 1.2 running at 1518 and at 1.92 volts water cooled hiting 32C. I got an alpha 80XX cooler the size if texas and my temps on my new 1.4 @ 1533 is 52 at idle and 60 at load.

The CPU also seems to be unstable at anything past 1.550. It will reach 1620 but fails the prime 95 and 3DMark 2000 tests.

I was realy hoping for a boost in performance not a 30MHz increase over my 1.2. WTF is it with these Ahyja Y TBirds? Over rated compared to 1.2 AXIA cores!!

[o¢r*Aiwa]

32°C *without* Peltiers on a 1.9V 1.2GhZ T-Bird. NO F*CKIN' WAY, sorry. You need water temps of less than 15°C to achieve that!

Either you lie or your readings are incorrect. I suppose the second case, so you better update your BIOS and try another software.
(Or maybe installed your PC in the fridge, that gives another option *g*)

Some MoBos turn out to read the temperature far lower than it actually is. Make sure the thermistor is right at the back of the CPU (in the middle of the socket) and bend it up a bit, so it gets near the heat source.

[JetMech]

Originally posted by ddt
i've never heard of this arctic ice, what is it?
here in south africa we have a hard time just finding non-stock heatsinks nevermind fancy case blowers and HSF's Arctic Silver II www.arcticsilver.com is a thermal paste that is very popular in overclocking circles. It is considered by most to be the best. It runs about $10.00 US. The following link is a site that sells both arctic silver and HSFs www.inflowdirect.com.

[ROH]

I just got my new A7A266 and a 1.4Ghz AMD Last week. I've bin fighting to get temps lower then 50 on my machine.

See thread. http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41204

My house sits at around 18-20 degrees ambient almost consistantly, and my computer room is always closer to the 18 then the 20 degrees, and with the stock HSF I'm averaging around 51-53 degrees.

Now I've tried the following HSF's over the last few days and I'm not getting all that happy about the state of afairs.

Vantec CCK6035D
With Delta on 49-51
With stock fan 51-53

Stock HSF
With Delta 48-50
With stock fan51-53

Globalwin CBK38
With Delta 51-54

DU0462-3 (Super Orb) - Ya, I know an orb.
Obviously no changes 53-56

Startech FAN370CU - This was a last resort as well cost me $15 on sale and if you looked at my fan thread is the one I can't return. :(
With its fan 55-57
with stock fan 54-56
.
Now all temps are under almost full load. Seti running. As well as playing UT for about an hour at the highest res my g-force256 can take. 1024x768 max details 32bit.

At idle temps my system runs around 41-47 degrees depending on the heatsink above.

All temps are from the diode in socket.

I read in this thread that cpucool is being used. I use it but only for temp watching etc.. on my A7A266 I actually found temp increases if cpucool was set to cool while seti was running and such. It also does not seem to affect my idle temps either. And yes I had the correct Mobo setting in the config for cpucool. MBM does not seem to work well on my machine.

Hope this helps someone.


Orion

[ddt]

i cut some holes in my case round about where my cpu is, one is just above the cpu and the other is just under the cpu (this is at the back of the case where the plugs and things are) and i put two 40mmx10mm fans over the holes, one blow cool air in from the bottom and another blows hot air out from the top, and my cpu now runs 6C cooler than before, all just because i keep the air inside cooler, as for the arctic ice, is it really worth using it or is the increase in heat dissipation very small?

[Karsta]

Originally posted by o¢r*Aiwa

Anyone claiming he is running a T-Bird of 1.2, 1.4 or even more GHz at 40°C (at load) is plain lieing or his mainboard reports wrong numbers. (I am using an A7V133, which traditionally reports very high but accurate)
...
So if you have aircooling, 25-30 degrees in your room and 40°C on the CPU check your mainboard or monitoring software. It is straight impossible.



I don't claim that my in-socket thermistor gives accurate values but close enough. Because room temperature is 20° I get 39° full load temperature @1.4G (Prime95+surfing etc.). This would give C/W 0.26 which is kind of expected value.

I had load temperatures well over 50° before I started optimizing airflow. Now even if the room temperature would be about 30° load temperature could still be under 50° for me. With best heatsinks available it would be possible to gain under 40° at same conditions (look at "Recommended Socket A/370 Heatsinks" (http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/) ).

[JetMech]

Originally posted by ddt
i cut some holes in my case round about where my cpu is, one is just above the cpu and the other is just under the cpu (this is at the back of the case where the plugs and things are) and i put two 40mmx10mm fans over the holes, one blow cool air in from the bottom and another blows hot air out from the top, and my cpu now runs 6C cooler than before, all just because i keep the air inside cooler, as for the arctic ice, is it really worth using it or is the increase in heat dissipation very small? For me it seemed to but I changed the HSF at the same time so I can't tell you the exact number improvement. Take a look at Karsta's signature in the post above this one and you can get an idea of how far you may need to go to get the temps you're looking for.

[o¢r*Aiwa]

Originally posted by Karsta


I don't claim that my in-socket thermistor gives accurate values but close enough. Because room temperature is 20° I get 39° full load temperature @1.4G (Prime95+surfing etc.). This would give C/W 0.26 which is kind of expected value.

I had load temperatures well over 50° before I started optimizing airflow. Now even if the room temperature would be about 30° load temperature could still be under 50° for me. With best heatsinks available it would be possible to gain under 40° at same conditions (look at "Recommended Socket A/370 Heatsinks" (http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/) ).

Yes this may be possible if you have 100% heat transfer from CPU to cooling device, but the case is, no matter the paste, no matter the pressure you will NOT get a gap lower than 15° between CPU and cooler temp and I *strongly* doubt you can cool your aircooler down to 24°C.

What mainboard are u using?

[Karsta]

Abit KG-7 Raid (as in signature).

Where comes this 15° and what does it matter? The delta in C/W is measured from above heatsink intake not from heatsink base (actually I use room temperature because of its ease and air comes from outside of case anyway). Of course heatsink is warmer than ambient air otherwise it would not cool the CPU.

[Karsta]

And as for tip or note:
I currently don't run the computer overclocked so I don't need as much cooling power. I use only 120mm exhaust fan above HSF slowed down with potentiometer (have a rheobus) and HD cooling fan (have no switch for it - it is silent anyway). The noise comes almost only from 60mm heatsink fan (not bad) and Maxtor HD (it whines). CPU temperature is 37° at light use (surfing and listening to music etc.).

[ve6jhc]

Well you must be referring to air cooled systems as my water cooled 1.4 Tbird runs at 32 C under load. I took the readings from my onboard temp sensor as well as with my digi doc 5....The two readings at 2 C different.

[BubbaJoeLouis]

I have a 1.4 and a Shuttle AK11 inside a sweet Antec case. This case comes with 2 exhaust fans. I am using a Coolermaster(?) HS&F.

Attached are my stats.

To sum up, I avg 31C low of 26C, high of 41C.

You are running WAY hot.

In the works are a watercooling system based on a tranny cooler. and a sub pump.

GOOD LUCK!
BJL;)

[ddt]

what's rheobus???
and is watercooling safer than everyone says it is?
cos i'm thinking about using a watercooler but i'm not too sure of how safe it is

[Karsta]

This is a rheobus:http://koti.mbnet.fi/tuokarsk/rheobus.jpg

I made it myself. It has 4 potentiometers (rheostats) for fanspeed adjustment (behind those black knobs) and also a switch for bypassing the potentiometers (all fans at full speed), all fans adjustable and 3 fans off and 1 adjustable.

[ddt]

so what's that creative thing with all the knobs and stuff? is that the live card, or something that came with it?

[RED Hot Machine]

Originally posted by ddt
so what's that creative thing with all the knobs and stuff? is that the live card, or something that came with it?

Thats the !live drive 2, that comes with the platinuim cards

[ddt]

so what can it do? like can you stick tapes in there or summin, i was thinking of getting one myself, but they pretty friggin expensive, was it worth it?

[Karsta]

Actually, I think it wasn't worth the price. I bought platinum to get SB live! 5.1 with digital optical in/out for my minidisk player. I didn't know then that there would have been cheaper choices. Anyway it gives some other possibilities I think I will test or use.

Edit:
Those features are remote control, headphones jack and possibly aux RCA jacks for VCR. One interesting feature is the ability to connect my electric guitar through panel - haven't played for years and have a crappy amplifier. I just tested it and it worked well. I got also nice distortion when I switched the connector from line-in2 mode to mic in 2 mode.

[dugans]

I've been fighting with the cooling gremlin since I started building fast AMD systems- up to 3 now.

I'm also cheap and impatient: $30 is my limit for HSF, and I get 'em at local stores so none of the good ones are available.

However: I've found a few good tricks- mainly ducting the intake for the cpu.

I started with side ducts and went from 54c or so to high 40's, improved case airflow and dropped to 45c.
But my cases( all mini towers) get jammed into desks and get bad airflow ouside the case: heat was coming around the sides and going into the cases again.

I now am making plastic ducts ($10 got me enough sheet plastic and glue for 2 pcs) that duct from 2 empty 5 1/4" bays right into the cpu. One system (XP 1800@1725) now has cpu/case temps of 41c/43c (yes cpu cooler than case! MSI mobo, temps ARE suspect, but not far off)

The other system is a 1000@1400 with temps of 22c case 45c cpu. These temps are pretty close, a degree or so. This one will improve as soon as I can drive the ducted air with an 80 instead of the spare 60mm YStech I have in there now: I should be able to get back to 42c or so.

Both systems are running at high volts too: 1.85 and 1.8.

And they don't (quite! <lol>) sound like airplanes!

[ddt]

have you got any pics of this duct?

[Karsta]

For some reason I have never gained anything with ducting. The best ducting solutions I've tried gave me same CPU temperature as I had otherwise also but because duct restricts the airflow inside the case, display card temps (and other tempsalso) rose substantially.

Maybe ducts help if there is not enough airflow inside the case to keep the air at room temperature or to push the air to HS?

[dugans]

no photos of the duct, although I should take some, but I have a diagram.

Two pcs have the setup but 1 has a back exhaust and gets lower cpu temps but higher case temps, the other has a chimney exhaust/ lower case temp and slightly higher cpu temp

[Nex]

Well my temps have always been high on this motherboard - A7V266. My temp is 58C at all times. I tried my CPU and HSF on an Abit KT7A RAID, and it gave temps of 36C. Quite how reliable the inbuilt diodes are is really open to debate.

[mrilock]

Aiwa, thank you. This makes me a bit more comfortable about the temps I was measuring. Two things I can't stand - too much noise, and a dead system. Its good knowing that the line between is a bit more forgiving than I had thought.

[xMephistoNx]

Hi everyone, i also run the 7dxr and get 62 idle, 65+ under load. I was worried for a while ( i even ordered a swifttech/delta combo the other day) but after seeing this thread mabye it isnt anything to worry about.

Mabye the 7dxr just has a better temp. probe ? Since it actually touches the cpu. Or it could be that the 7dxr (at least mine) gives the chip more voltage than its suppose to.

I have mine set to 1.75 in the bios but when i run the Gigabyte SIV it reports that its getting 1.825 volts.

But then again, mabye the 7dxr is just crap.

[ddt]

i started using Hmonitor now on my elitegroup k7s5a, and i get 3 temps on the monitor, one is quite obviously the chip, which now runs 55C idle and 64C under load with my air circulaters, and the other i reckon is the chipset, but the third runs at 14C almost constantly, what could it be? i started my pc up about 5 mins ago and right now it's at 7C, anyone know what it is?

[Just shoot]

Have had the same experience with my 1.4 t.b. and old 1.2 t.b. I honestly believe they are the same chip. My 1.2 would run at 124 x 13 or 1615 so i though i would up grade to the 1.4 get the exact same clock 1615.