View Full Version : What size of hole saw?
any common size of hole saw for modding beside 120mm blow hole and 80mm hole saw, thanks for answers!
Son1990
10-12-05, 09:19 PM
115mm Hole saw will be just perfect for a 120mm hole. U wont even tell the diffrence
demortey
10-12-05, 09:41 PM
3 inch hole saw for 80mm...its a little bit smaller but is the closest you'll get to 80mm
btw...
80mm = 3.14"
76.2mm = 3"
sorry but I did said beside 120mm saw and 80mm saw so any other sizes that uses often?
demortey
10-12-05, 09:55 PM
misunderstood...
it depends what you are cutting a hole for...you can use any size that exists, really, as long as the hole is the right size for your needs. what are you looking to do, if we know what you are going for its not so much a shot in teh dark to give you a hand
If I know what I'm doing then no need to ask sizes since I can find the right size for what I'm doing, I need to buy $50 of hole saw or more to get free shipping and I already selected sizes that I need but not enough to cover free shipping yet so I need to select some more which I want to know the popular sizes that people usually use to modding their cases
squasher
10-12-05, 10:17 PM
a 4.5 inch is what i use for 120mm fans
4-3/4" is recommended by Swiftech for 120mm hole saw, what size of hole saw for Illuminated Vandal Switch?
Stedeman
10-12-05, 10:38 PM
if you still need more a 3 1/2" is close to a 90MM and a 2 3/4" for a 70mm
Neuromancer
10-12-05, 10:50 PM
If I know what I'm doing then no need to ask sizes since I can find the right size for what I'm doing, I need to buy $50 of hole saw or more to get free shipping and I already selected sizes that I need but not enough to cover free shipping yet so I need to select some more which I want to know the popular sizes that people usually use to modding their cases
Grateful attitudes are always a sigh of relief!!
IF you had said this in your first post, well people would not be guessing what you meant now would they?
I just want to know what makes these hole saws so expensive!? To get the one that makes a 120mm fan hole at my local depot costs over 25 or so bucks. That's with an arbor, but still.
Stedeman
10-13-05, 04:19 PM
I just want to know what makes these hole saws so expensive!? To get the one that makes a 120mm fan hole at my local depot costs over 25 or so bucks. That's with an arbor, but still.
It’s because they are heavy duty and cut metal, as well as wood. You can get a cheap 10-20 piece hole saw set w/arbor for $10, I have a set myself, but it won’t cut metal. That’s why I also have the more expensive / heavy duty one’s for my case hole cuttings.
It’s because they are heavy duty and cut metal, as well as wood. You can get a cheap 10-20 piece hole saw set w/arbor for $10, I have a set myself, but it won’t cut metal. That’s why I also have the more expensive / heavy duty one’s for my case hole cuttings.
Yeah, I saw a 8 or 10 piece set for cheap (like under 10$) but when I looked at the package a little closer it said it was only for wood.
How are those heavy duty metal cutting hole-saw blades holding up? Is it good for more than 10 or so cuts into 19-18 guage (roughly 1-1.2mm) steel? If it can do more than 10 cuts into that type of steel without being worn out then it just might be worth getting one, despite the price tag.
squasher
10-13-05, 07:55 PM
How do you attach these damn things though?
I had one from before, but it turned out I did not need it then. Now I need my hole saw and I cant figure out how to attach the thing to my drill.
How do you attach these damn things though?
I had one from before, but it turned out I did not need it then. Now I need my hole saw and I cant figure out how to attach the thing to my drill.
Does yours have an arbor? It will need an abor. If you have a keyless chuck drill then just twist the top and bottom of the keyless chuck and the hole will open. If you don't have a keyless chuck then you need to find the chuck key and open it that way. If that's not what you're talking about then skip over this post as I know the info contained within it is very basic. :D
demortey
10-13-05, 09:35 PM
you probably dont have the special bit in the centre of it. its a drillbit with a screw thing on it that goes into the drill and the saw either threads on it, clips into it, or is attached to it somehow, theres a bunch of different styles. just go to a hardware store and ask them which bit you need for it.
heres one for wood, but a metal/all purpose bit would prolly better suit your needs
http://www.epinions.com/Black_Decker_Woodcutting_Hole_Saw_Mandrel_U1241_Sh op_Tools
Stedeman
10-13-05, 10:06 PM
I have done a few with each and they all seem to be in good shape, I even cut through some 3mm Aluminum. They should last a real long time if you use them right. A drill press with the right RPM setting; each metal type and cutter size has its own optimal RPM and cutting speed. Also, using some cutting oil will keep them in good working condition much longer then hacking on them with a hand drill ;)
squasher
10-13-05, 10:19 PM
Thanks for the help demortey@gmail., I will get the mandrel soon.
thanks anyway what
you need Mandrel Adaptor and find the right arbor size for your hole saw, most cheap sets of hole saw won't last long, Milwaukee Bi-Metal is the one I'm getting (2 Arbors, 1 Mandrel Adaptor, 7 hole saws w/ different sizes) just a bit more than $50 w/ FREE SHIP :) waiting for it to do some modding for Aqua Tube Reservoir
Susquehannock
10-15-05, 05:28 AM
Yeah, I saw a 8 or 10 piece set for cheap (like under 10$) but when I looked at the package a little closer it said it was only for wood.
How are those heavy duty metal cutting hole-saw blades holding up? Is it good for more than 10 or so cuts into 19-18 guage (roughly 1-1.2mm) steel? If it can do more than 10 cuts into that type of steel without being worn out then it just might be worth getting one, despite the price tag.
With proper care & use a good set of holesaws will last you many years.
I have done a few with each and they all seem to be in good shape, I even cut through some 3mm Aluminum. They should last a real long time if you use them right. A drill press with the right RPM setting; each metal type and cutter size has its own optimal RPM and cutting speed. Also, using some cutting oil will keep them in good working condition much longer then hacking on them with a hand drill ;)
Well said. Proper RPM and cutting oil are essential if you want your saws to last.
Some of the ones I use are likely older than many reading this thread. :)
A little smoke from burning oil is OK. But one should never EVER see sparks when
using a holesaw. Have seen far too many posts like that.
Wow, I guess that explains why they are so pricey. I thought a good deal would have been 6 months; tops. Just so happens I have a drill press. It's not a really good one, but it has three speeds. The speeds on mine are adjusted by a thick rubber band.
Susquehannock
10-15-05, 01:03 PM
Belt drive - quite common. Just remember, the larger the diameter of the cutter,
the slower the RPM required. Slow & steady wins the race.
Belt drive - quite common. Just remember, the larger the diameter of the cutter,
the slower the RPM required. Slow & steady wins the race.
Thanks, I did not know that. I was actually thinking the opposite. Ooops. Heheh.
dremel or jig saw when cutting holes?
Susquehannock
10-15-05, 07:25 PM
Thanks, I did not know that. I was actually thinking the opposite. Ooops. Heheh.
Oh yeah. Many people make the same assumption which is why I try to mention diameter vs. RPM often.
Too many posts in the forums complaining about burned up saws.
With a little metric conversion & Pi math we can figure out :
120mm hole = 14.84" circumference
80mm hole = 9.89" circumference
Given that we can see why a tooth on the 120mm holesaw must travel farther per revolution.
... Put simply, more distance = more work = more heat.
Here's a good example what NOT to do :
http://jonnyenglish.pimprig.com/articles/holesaw_foulup/hsfu-inside.jpg
You can see how it got hot enough to melt the paint some distance away on the
side opposite the cut. Likely that holesaw is trashed now.
Yikes, I bet he had to sand down that whole side-panel (looks like one to me) and paint with a color that won't even match what he had before.
Susquehannock
10-15-05, 07:40 PM
The oil made it look worse, even so they had to use some rubber edging to cover the burned edges.
Here is the thread BTW : http://forums.pimprig.com/showthread.php?t=22188
In the second image you can see how the teeth on the saw have been worn & discolored from heat.
Which is a shame as it looks like they had a fairly good set-up otherwise.
And to think, that likely would have been me with that burnt case had you not mentioned the whole RPM thing. Do you recommend any particular oil, Susquehannock?
Susquehannock
10-15-05, 09:01 PM
And to think, that likely would have been me with that burnt case had you not mentioned the whole RPM thing. Do you recommend any particular oil, Susquehannock?
Cool - always good to know your efforts help others get the most from their tools. :)
There are specially formulated cutting oils, however, I don't think they are necessary
in the context of this thread. Personally, for jobs like this I have an oil can filled
with 10w30 motor oil.
You will see smoke, dont worry about it long as the chips don't start turning colors.
Brown means you are getting pretty warm - blue means way too hot - passed
that you will start to see sparks, a definite NO-NO. That's metal burning!
The most important thing is - let the tool do the work. It's not a race
to see how fast you can make a hole. Apply steady even pressure while holding
the saw square to the work. This is where a drill press has the advantage.
Use low to med-low RPM - the chips should build up around the holesaw, not fling across the room.
Hope all that helps.
Yes, that does help. I was going to say 10w30 but I didn't want to look stupid if that was way off. :shrug: I have tons of 10w30 in the garage. I just hope that drill press of mine has slow enough RPM on its lowest setting. Only one way to find out, since I'm almost positive my bro has lost the manual that came with it. Such is life with siblings.
Stedeman
10-16-05, 09:41 AM
If you can't get a slow enough RPM use a tapping motion (up and down) while cutting, never add to much pressure. This will help keep the temps down. Also an easy way to hold it down is to drill out the 4 mounting holes and use it to screw into a block; then use a vise on the block to hold the panel in place.
9mmCensor
10-16-05, 09:50 AM
With a little metric conversion & Pi math we can figure out :
120mm hole = 14.84" circumference
80mm hole = 9.89" circumference
120 millimeters = 4.72440945 inches
80 millimeters = 3.1496063 inches
???
Susquehannock
10-16-05, 12:49 PM
120 millimeters = 4.72440945 inches
80 millimeters = 3.1496063 inches
???
Please notice what you quoted says circumference. Your figures are
indeed correct but they show the diameter of the circle.
Multiply those by Pi (3.1415). Elementary geometry my friend. ;)
9mmCensor
10-16-05, 12:59 PM
Please notice what you quoted says circumference. Your figures are
indeed correct but they show the diameter of the circle.
Multiply those by Pi (3.1415). Elementary geometry my friend. ;)
Damnit.
I feel like stupid now.
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