View Full Version : i think i fried it
can you tell by looking at an athlon if you've fried it?
Dunga Bee
10-21-01, 09:50 PM
Welcome to the forums ! :)
I wish it were under better circumstances :(
You may be able to look around the edges of the core and see black markings. It kind of looks like how blood runs out from under a person when they get shot in a movie. That's what the black marks will look like. Kind of like you shot you CPU and it is bleeding black out of the core. That would be a good indication.
What happened? Give us some more details and maybe we can offer some other ideas.
I have (had) an athlon 1gig/200fsb in an asus a7v mb. before knowing anything about overclocking i turned the clock multiplier up til it would no longer work (about 105 or so). then I read a tutorial at madnesspc.com and did the pencil trick to unlock the L1 bridges. after doing the pencil trick i managed to successfully turn the clock multiplier up to 110 and the computer ran fine (the fsb was at 143 or somethin). so against my better judgement i decided to crank it up to 133 (which automatically made the fsb 133). when i tried to start it, it failed to post. i reset the cmos and it was fine again (back to default settings but was up and runnin) so i started over by turning the cpu to 110 and this time i started from an fsb frequency of 110. it wouldnt post and i tried several times to reset the cmos, unplugged it for hours, erased all my pencil marks, and still no post. any ideas whats goin on?
Dunga Bee
10-22-01, 09:36 AM
Originally posted by heavy1
I have (had) an athlon 1gig/200fsb in an asus a7v mb. before knowing anything about overclocking i turned the clock multiplier up til it would no longer work (about 105 or so). then I read a tutorial at madnesspc.com and did the pencil trick to unlock the L1 bridges. after doing the pencil trick i managed to successfully turn the clock multiplier up to 110 and the computer ran fine (the fsb was at 143 or somethin). so against my better judgement i decided to crank it up to 133 (which automatically made the fsb 133). when i tried to start it, it failed to post. i reset the cmos and it was fine again (back to default settings but was up and runnin) so i started over by turning the cpu to 110 and this time i started from an fsb frequency of 110. it wouldnt post and i tried several times to reset the cmos, unplugged it for hours, erased all my pencil marks, and still no post. any ideas whats goin on?
When you say "clock multiplier", do you just mean the CPU multiplier. It would be a number like 10, 10.5, 11, etc ?
in the advanced section of my bios setup I see a cpu (clock) multiplier (i thought thats what it was anyway) that has a default setting of 100 which gives me 1000 mhz. i can (could) manually set it anywhere between 95 and 150. Also for the fsb frequency i have a choice of 100 or 133. so if i were to set the cpu at 105, the fsb would either be 105 or 138ish and once i try to set the cpu any higher than 133 i have no choice but to use the lower fsb setting (which at that point is 133 anyway). hope i'm makin sense. if not thanks for your patience.
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-22-01, 10:03 AM
Check this thread http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=40661&highlight=a7v .
It has some ideas from a person that had a similar problem.
warrior
10-22-01, 10:07 AM
It seems you have multiplier setting and FSB mixed up. The L1 bridges you connected unlocks the muliplier setting. A 1 gHz CPU runs with a FSB of 100mHz x 10 multiplier. By 'unlocking' the CPU you can use the dipswitches on your mainboard to change this muliplier to 10.5 or 11 which then results in 1.05gHz or 1.1 gHz.
Another way to oc a CPU is to crank up the FSB. Change the FSB to 105mHz and leave the multipliers alone, you get 105mHzx10multiplier which also gives 1.05gHz.
AMD CPU's don't like crancked-up FSB speeds so it's best you leave that at 100 mHz and just mess around with the dipswitches ( 6 in a row on a light-blue block on ASUS A7V board)
To make sure if you fried your CPU ( unless you booted it without a cooling attached to it I don't think you did fry it) here's what you do; reset your CMOS, leave the L1 bridges un-connected like you already did, set the multiplier dipswitches ( the light-blue ones) to their default (factory setting) and boot up. Hit del to get to the BIOS and set your FSB to 100mHz, VCore to Default, save settings and reboot. If it boots ( you may need to hit the reset button several times!!) you're set to go. From here you can start again, connect the L1 bridges and set the dipswitch multipliers to 1.05, then 1.1 and each time you boot monitor your CPU temp with your favourit tool. I use ASUS's monitoring tool. Once you CPU starts going over 50°C you will get instability.
One thing to note; every time you boot yout PC, make sure you ALWAYS have your cooler attached and its fan turning. NEVER boot an Atlhon without its cooling cause that WILL kill your CPU. I can know, I lost one that way ;)
(call me a dumbass, i know i got it comin) there was a time (after it would not post) that i did fire it up without the heatsink attached. I immediately noticed and shut it down and (like a dumbass again) touched it to see if it got hot (which left this nice little red spot on my finger). but there are no apparent burnspots or anything that looks funky on the processor except the chip in the middle has a blue tint (not sure if that was there before).
so basicly, its probably fried huh?
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-22-01, 10:29 AM
Most likely it is gone. AMDs suffer an almost instant death without a HSF.
Do you have another chip you could try?
You could always pick up a Duron for about $30 to test your theory and to practice overclocking on before you try it on a more expensive chip.
Sorry to see that happen to you :(
ya - i had a feeling that somethin wasnt right when i burned my finger. that is a good idea about the duron tho - i think i might go that route. next time i know where to go for tech supoort tho (my new favorite forum at overclockers.com) :D
Thanks alot for the help guys. I'll definately be in touch.
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-22-01, 10:37 AM
Newegg.com (http://www.newegg.com)
Good place to go for hardware. They have Duron 750s for $30. Very reputable place.
You can also use pricewatch.com (http://www.pricewatch.com) to find the lowest dealer price possible.
Good Luck. :D
Originally posted by heavy1
in the advanced section of my bios setup I see a cpu (clock) multiplier (i thought thats what it was anyway) that has a default setting of 100 which gives me 1000 mhz. i can (could) manually set it anywhere between 95 and 150. Also for the fsb frequency i have a choice of 100 or 133. so if i were to set the cpu at 105, the fsb would either be 105 or 138ish and once i try to set the cpu any higher than 133 i have no choice but to use the lower fsb setting (which at that point is 133 anyway). hope i'm makin sense. if not thanks for your patience.
Heavy
The thing you think was multipilere was actually the fsb..... You didnt have to unlock the chip to change it. The thing you tought was fsb was actually the speed of the memory so when you set the memory speed at 133 and fsb all the way up too 133 you actually runned it at 166mhz so if something is burned i would guess the ram. When you oc the fsb you should leave the ram speed at 100mhz then the ram will run at 133mhz if you bump the fsb up too 133 wich you tought was multipilere. Multipilere= 10x,10.5x,11x and so on.
grabbed me a duron 700 and im back in action. perhaps i'll be needin some help on this one if anyone wants to participate. how high can a duron 700 go anyway?
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-22-01, 02:01 PM
I have seen Duron 700s in the 1 GHz range but a realistic goal might be in the 900s.
Take some time and read as much as you can about overclocking on the OC.com site. There is LOTS of valuable info there.
A word to the wise, take small steps in OC'ing and watch your temps as you move up the MHz ladder.
Good luck and keep us posted.
killem1x1
10-22-01, 02:14 PM
I got a 200 mhz Oclock with no problem. I did bump the voltage a couple of notches, but it was very stable, and very easy. Let me know if I cna help out in any other way!
ok im ready to put the hurt on the duron 700. heres what i think i need to do. let me know if it sounds about right. btw, the motherboard is an asus a7v.
1. close the L1 bridges
2. disable jumper-free mode on the a7v
3. set the cpu external frequency setting to 100 mhz
4. set the bus frequency multiplier to 7
this should give me the same setup i have now but with jumper-free mode disabled, right?
then to begin overclocking i would set the bus multiplier to 7.5 which should give me 750 mhz, right?
or should i change the cpu frequency? or both? hmmm :confused:
anyone wanna pitch a suggestion? I'd appreciate it.
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-22-01, 11:41 PM
Here is my suggestion.
Up the FSB while lowering the multiplier to keep the overall speed at or close to stock. So, you might up your FSB to 105 and lower the multiplier to 6.5 giving you 105 x 6.5 = 682.5.
Keep upping the FSB and lower your multiplier until you hit a limit for your FSB. This will most likely be caused by your memory or another component that will not like a high FSB.
The reason for upping the FSB is because this increases the performance of memory and all devices that run on the FSB since the overall speed of the bus is increased. For example, your memory will start off talking to the CPU at 100 Mhz. If you can up that to 110 or 120, that's a good gain.
So, once you hit the limit of your FSB, begin upping your multiplier and WATCH YOUR TEMPS. This will start increasing your CPU speed. If you topped out at say 120 FSB x 6.0 = 720. Then you start to up your multiplier and hit 6.5, then 7.0, etc. But, TEST at these settings using a program such as Prime95 or Folding@Home (http://www.overclockers.ws/folding) . Let these programs crank for a while to stress the CPU and cooling to be sure your system is really stable at the speed you are at.
Once your verify stability, bump up the multiplier and run again.
Now, if you up the multiplier and it is not stable, you can always back the FSB down and keep the multiplier the same and try again. Changing the multiplier causes some big jumps in overall speed so dropping the FSB can lower the jump and give you some intermediate options.
I can't stress this enough, TEST EACH STEP ALONG THE WAY AND WATCH YOUR TEMPS.
That should get you going.
Once you see instability in at a certain speed after trying the above options, you can try to up the vCore voltage and see if that helps. Again, WATCH YOUR TEMPS WHEN UPPING THE CORE VOLTAGE.
I know I'm harping on the temps, but it can easily be overlooked when seeking that 'just a bit faster' speed.
Good luck and let us know how you fair.
DB
Thanks Dunga Bee,
gonna get on it here in a few. got one more quick question though. on motherboard monitor 5, i see 3 temperatures (sensor 1, 2 and 3). The temperatures read 38*c, 45*c and -32*c. which one is the one i need to watch? (my guess is the 45). and also, -32 is pretty darn chilly. why does my sensor say that?
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-23-01, 09:48 AM
The 38 is most likely your motherboard temp, the 45 is your CPU temp and the -32 is bogus. Your mobo may have only 2 sensors.
What HSF do you have?
You should try to keep your temps below 50 at all times. Many people experience 'weird' things (lockups, etc.) when they get in to the mid 50s or so.
not sure what you mean by hsf?
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-23-01, 10:13 AM
Heatsink fan combo
oh - its a thermaltake orb (not sure which one), came with my athlon 1 gig. i'll probably need a bigger one huh?
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-23-01, 10:25 AM
Probably not for OC'ing the Duron, but probably for OC'ing a T-Bird.
Just watch your temps and if you get to a point that the temps are getting too high, but you think the chip can do more, stop there and save up for a good HSF.
ok - thanks again Dunga Bee. i think i'm ready to put the hurt on this bad boy. I'll be in touch later to let ya know how it goes.
Heavy
!-=sky=-!
10-23-01, 11:06 AM
Originally posted by Dunga Bee
Probably not for OC'ing the Duron, but probably for OC'ing a T-Bird.
Just watch your temps and if you get to a point that the temps are getting too high, but you think the chip can do more, stop there and save up for a good HSF.
the orb is crap
get a new heatsink
sk6 from thermal something or swiftech or cak38 from globalwin or glaciator
and depending on what rev version your a7v is you might have a chance of having a kt133a chip or a kt133 chip that can do 133fsb
rev 1.04 or higher, check that at between 3th to 4th or 4th to 5th pci slot, don't remember which one
btw my rev 1.05 board is running 135 fsb now
closed L1 bridges using a #2 pencil
disabled jumper-free mode
set fsb at 105
set multiplier at 6.5
and all seems well
Internal Clock: 682MHz
External Clock: 105MHz
gonna run 3dmark2001 then if all goes well ill start steppin the fsb up (107, 109, 111, 115....)
see ya in a few :)
Heavy
whats up sky?
its rev 1.02 and it does have a 100 or 133 option and (not sure if this matters) i'm using 2 kingston pc133 128 mb ram sticks. keep in mind tho that im still a newbie ( actually a laid off newbie with alot of time and little $$$) and i kinda gotta make it work with what i got.
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-23-01, 11:31 AM
If you have the KT133 chip and not the KT133A, which I think is what you have, you may be limited to a FSB speed of around 110 or so.
That's from memory, but I recall reading some posts that the original KT133 chipset did not yeild high, stable FSB speeds.
But you can just take it as high as she'll go and stay stable then mess with the multiplier.
!-=sky=-!
10-23-01, 12:00 PM
Originally posted by Dunga Bee
If you have the KT133 chip and not the KT133A, which I think is what you have, you may be limited to a FSB speed of around 110 or so.
this is correct
just raise to max fsb that machine with be stable at then start upping the multiplier
heres whats hapnin.
at 109 x 7 all is well - 763 mhz
at 109 x 7.5 i get a blue screen stop error when i get to the choose os screen.
at 105 x 7.5 win 2k froze on boot and 98 had the missing file thing.
at 100 x 7.5 all is well - 750 mhz
im thinkin maybe my L1 pencil marks arent good enough. Any suggestions?
Heavy
!-=sky=-!
10-23-01, 11:09 PM
it might be
try redoing it
laid it on thick but still no go.
right now im runnin at 105 x 7.5 which is my best so far but i cant run a 3dmark test cuz 3dmark crashes. do ya spose maybe the pencil im using is no good or could it be a voltage thing or something else?
Heavy
900 mhz or bust!
Dunga Bee
10-24-01, 09:34 AM
3dmark might be crashing because your vid card might not like the higher FSB speed.
You might try to lower the FSB until you can get 3dmark to run successfully.
Then up the multiplier. You may need to up the vCore with higher multipliers to get it stable, but WATCH YOUR TEMPS. Upping the voltage can cause BIG temp increases.
hey dunga bee,
hows it goin?
now i'm at 95 x 8 which is my highest multiple so far.
3dmark ran fine but i got a pretty low score (2125 - best is 2194 at 109x7).
temperatures are runnin between 47-50.
now im gonna try goin 8.5 x 95. kinda doubt it will go tho. seems like no matter which combination i use, i cant seem to get close to 800.
oh ya - about the voltage, do i need to do somethin to the duron in order to change the voltage (like close the L7 bridge) and if not what voltage would you recommend starting at (its at default now)?
btw - i really appreciate the support :)
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-24-01, 10:35 AM
Going well here. Doing some travelling for work so I don't have constant board access like when I'm at the office.
Your 3dmark score will suffer because you are slowing down the system bus to below stock (95 vs. 100) and that will slow the memory speed, etc, which will slow 3dmark scores. But you will gain MHz so the in game difference may not be noticeable.
Check your BIOS settings for a voltage adjustment. You may be able to up it in there, I'm not sure. My mobo can increase the voltage from 1.75 (stock) up to 1.85. To go higher than 1.85 you have to do the L7 mod. I think the default for a Duron is around 1.5, but whatever it is, you just want to try to bump it up in small steps.
The L7 mod makes your chips default voltage start at a higher number. On a T-Bird, closing those bridges puts you default voltage at 1.85 and then I could up it to 1.95 through my mobo.
To go higher than that, you usually have to mod your mobo.
Your temps are fine for now, although above 50 may limit your overclock. Chips hate high temps when running out of spec. That's why you may be able to run at stock speeds stable at 53C with a crappy HSF, but can't overclock it at all.
broke 800!
just managed to get a successful 3dmark test at 100 x 8 @ 1.7v. (807 mhz) score 2180.
she's gettin a little warm now - 54 degrees after the test (case wide open). thinkin im gonna need a better hsf if i wanna go much further. i'm also thinkin i should get a conductive pen to close my bridges with instead of the pencil marks.
Heavy
900 or bust!
Dunga Bee
10-24-01, 01:55 PM
Originally posted by heavy1
broke 800!
just managed to get a successful 3dmark test at 100 x 8 @ 1.7v. (807 mhz) score 2180.
she's gettin a little warm now - 54 degrees after the test (case wide open). thinkin im gonna need a better hsf if i wanna go much further. i'm also thinkin i should get a conductive pen to close my bridges with instead of the pencil marks.
Heavy
900 or bust!
Definitely new HSF to go higher. Can you get any more out at 1.7v ?
Conductive pen might help also.
Nice work...you are addicted ;)
lol
ya - i spose i am addicted. been goin on it non-stop for 3 days now.
scored a new high 3dmark score (2195) at 101x8@1.74. startin to feel the rush! goin for 102 x 8 now.
temperatures hittin 53 ish since i adjusted the voltage. not sure what the default voltage was runnin at but im gettin 1.74 now.
Heavy
900 mhz or bust!
!-=sky=-!
10-25-01, 12:43 AM
the default voltage for a duron i think it is 1.65v
and good job on your overclock
just another thought but you know the line below where you set your fsb it should also have the same number as the line as above
if it's higher than it will limit your overclock by a lot since that line adjusts your ram speed<--i dunno how to describe this but anyways hope you understand
check this out
whats up sky?
not really sure what ya mean but it hink your referrin to the bios settings, right? i quit using bios settings a couple days ago and now i make all my adjustments on the mobo jumpers.
now i got 105x8 goin (840 mhz) @1.86v and i scored a new high 3dmark (2261!). i really gotta stop tho til i get a new hsf. hit a high temp of 56 degrees.
have you guys ever tried a software cpu cooling app? i downloaded one called vcool from cnet and while it dont do much for my full load temp it did drop my idle temp by 12 degrees and i got my new high 3dmark while running it. I figure maybe theres a reason that i havent heard about em on the boards here?
also i was wonderin if there is a "poor-mans" way to help cool my processor down at full load (something that requires very little cash). i got my case wide open but still hit 56 degrees while gaming.
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-25-01, 10:35 AM
CPU Coolers = gimmic
They only cool when the CPU is doing nothing. And, if it is doing nothing then who cares how cool it is:confused: .
*** Sarcasim ***
Cheap way to cool = do not overclock :p
*** \Sarcasm***
"Cheap Ideas"
1) Put a large fan blowing on side of the PC with the case open
2) Open a window and put on a jacket (if it is cold where you are)
3) If you have not already, get some Arctic silver II to use between the HSF and the CPU. Depending on what you are using today, that might drop you a few degrees.
Still thinking...
lol
actually it is pretty damn cold here - 43 degrees.
thought about the fan blowin on it. that would help keep the vid card and other stuff cool also.
im just usin some generic silicon heatsink paste cuz my local comp store was out of the arctic silver. ya think that would make a considerable difference?
just called a couple places - cant seem to find arctic silver locally. any idea where i can get it?
Heavy
!-=sky=-!
10-25-01, 11:15 AM
Originally posted by heavy1
lol
actually it is pretty damn cold here - 43 degrees.
thought about the fan blowin on it. that would help keep the vid card and other stuff cool also.
im just usin some generic silicon heatsink paste cuz my local comp store was out of the arctic silver. ya think that would make a considerable difference?
just called a couple places - cant seem to find arctic silver locally. any idea where i can get it?
Heavy
well if u cant find it locally then you will have to order it from the net
but dont' ask me...i don't know where, but probably other people can help you on that one
and adding a fan blowing on the thing will help it a little but in the long run you will need something better - i mean like better airflow throughout the case)
Dunga Bee
10-25-01, 11:18 AM
ASII may not make a giant difference over stuff from a local store like Radio Shack. It does make a good difference over the stuff that usually comes with the HSF.
You can get ASII at www.coolinggears.com (http://www.coolinggears.com/) .
Or, if you wait and get a new HSF, get a Glaciator 2 and it comes with a little packet of ASII that can probably do 5 + installs.
!-=sky=-!
10-25-01, 11:20 AM
isnt the glaciator 2 out already?
hmm i thought it is
i need some artic silver 2....but i cant afford it
it's too expensive
Dunga Bee
10-25-01, 11:25 AM
It is, I have one :) .
I meant that he said he didn't want to spend too much money so he'd have to wait and save up.
That ASII is a great perk to an already great HSF, IMHO :D
i think im about maxed out.
got 103x 8.5 (877mhz) @1.9 volts.
got some ASII and that dropped my temp down to 53 degrees at full load which seems to be stable.
got my voltage jumpers on the highest setting (1.85 but i'm getting 1.9 according to MBM).
i can start the computer and run it at 105 x8.5 (892mhz) but 3dmark crashes while testing.
temperatures dont seem to be a prob right now cuz it was actually hitting 56 degrees before ASII and remaining stable.
what stops me from going higher is windows freezing or shutting down. any ideas how to get a little more out of it?
Heavy
Dunga Bee
10-26-01, 01:35 PM
Can your multipliers go higher than 8.5 ? That might be the solution. Upping the FSB may be causing your memory or video card or another device to go haywire and crash windows.
I am assuming you are upping the voltage via the motherboard or BIOS correct ?
If you close the L7 bridges, your default voltage will be set higher (1.85, I believe, at least for a T-Bird). Then you could up your voltage via the mobo or BIOS like you are now, you will just be starting at a higher number and then moving up.
But, upping the voltage does up the temps, ALOT, so be careful.
Let me know how you do.
thanks dunga bee,
when i set the multiplier to 9x i get a stop error right as win2k is about to boot. the error seems to be different all the time but they all say somethin about removin any just-installed hardware.
i'm adjusting the voltage using the mobo jumpers. i'll close the l7 bridge and see what happens.
Heavy
!-=sky=-!
10-27-01, 04:44 AM
you can adjust the 1.85v on the motherboard jumpers as well..same effect as the l7 bridges.at least i think that's for a a7v
try lowering your memory settings and see if you can up the fsb more since the higher fsb the faster(even if at same mhz the speed with a higher fsb lower multiplier is a lot faster)
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2012, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.