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P4C800E-Dlx - Did 1024 Fix your Vcore Droop?

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P4C800E-Dlx - Did 1024 Fix your Vcore Droop?


  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .

Pinky

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2001
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Originally posted by Randyman...

Like the title says, if you have a P4C800-E Deluxe MoBo, and you have upgraded to BIOS 1023.001 or 1024.001 - I am curious what effect it had on your Vcore droop? Mine still droops by 0.12v at full load with 1023 and 1024 (1.42v Idle, 1.30v Full Load).
 
Thanks Pinky! I voted (duh) - and I appreciate ANY others honest input on this BIOS/Vcore Droop issue...

Also include your Power Supply if possible (Mine is a Enermax EG465P-VE-FM; 465Watt with a 33Amp 12v rail)

:cool:
 
It is impossible for any bios for this board to fix Vcore droop, the problem is at a hardware level and not a software level.

Even with my board droop modded the only way to know the true Vcore voltage is to messure it a mutlimeter and the base of one of the phase coils near the cpu socket.

The real voltage is not in sync with the voltage that is displayed by various monitoring programs.

No droop, actual messured voltage idle 1.61v (real), under load 1.53v (real) --- software monitor voltage: idle 1.6v, load 1.47v

28k mod ,actual messured voltage idle 1.63v (real), under load 1.57v (real) --- software monitor voltage: idle 1.61v, load 1.53v

19k mod ,actual messured voltage idle 1.63v (real), under load 1.63v (real) --- software monitor voltage: idle 1.62v, load 1.57v


- No bios will ever fix droop
- Droop mod is needed
- Zero droop, tune your VR and messure your voltage on the actual motherboard when idle and under load.
 
Kind of what I thought, too - BUT others here swear up and down that 1024 FIXED their droop to within 0.02v (where it drooped more than 0.10v before 1024). I thought this was just a circuit limitation (poor design ;) ) of the P4C's?

About the "Mod" - I have already decided against the mod, as I have already used my Asus Warranty once, and I'm betting on using it again in the 3 years of warranty I have left (3 Years f/Asus, 1 extra year from Newegg). I am stable at 4.02GHz as-is with the droop, so I'm not going to ruin my $200 MoBo's warranty to gain a few hundred MHz. Makes sense to me...

So why do other users see a Vcore-Droop "Improvement" after updating the BIOS? Could the new BIOS possibly affect how the Vcore sensor is sending its data (some kind of "Sensor Offset" maybe?). Just curious why some users are seeing something, and I saw absolutey nothing!

PS - Exactly where on the MoBo do I get a Vcore reading with a DMM? I want to do this, but I don't know what to measure across...

Thanks for your time :cool:
 
Last edited:
Its either their bad judgement from the last time they checked or a change in the bios code (I doubt it) to display different voltage reading.

As far as the mod goes, it will get you higher. More stable, well that all depends on the chip.
For me, I am able to boot at a higher MHz but I don't gain any more stability after the pyshical limits are past on my CPU, which is ~3.6GHz. However if I had better cooling (extreme cooling) then I am sure the Vdroop would be more than worth it.
Can understand your concern, I have recently brought this motherboard too, big price for an old board, but I'm not ready to get rid of my EE yet.
I made my vdroop mod with a plug. I can totally remove the VR and plug it back in again whenever I feel like it, great for tuning or cutting down on heat at lower freq.

Heres where to messure: Multimeter black to ground (spare molex black wire or directly on case is ground), and mutlimeter red to the bottom of one of these inductors as in photo. (Thats someone elses photo, so cheers to them)

 
"I Spy: An XP-120" :)

Thanks alot for the Vcore measurement point. Hey - do you have a pic of exactly how you made your Vcore "Mod" removeable? Does your methood of "The Mod" still void the warranty?

:cool:
 
Yeah thats not my setup (XP-120). :shrug:

The photo below is my setup.
Yes it voids the warranty, as you still need to solder on the to small wires, very easy if your careful.
Looking at the photo you can see 2 thin white wires running along the purple printer port, at the end of that was where I once had a mutil-turn VR. This sucked because once in place could not remove and soon as I turned the pot I had no idea what the resistance was anymore.
I cut the old rectangle mutil-turn VR off, found and old CD-rom sound plug, attached plug to the white droop wires. Then used a old fan header from a dead board, attached a single turn VR to it.
Just unplug, whenever I don't want the Vdroop in place, and/or can change the VR to any value I like. VR is very stable, even when I have removed it, its stays exactly where I set the resistance too. :thup:
Had no trouble changing many times on the fly while machine is running (I do it at during cpu idle state just in case). :attn:

 
Cool Mod! I might eventually bite the bullet and do the mod, but my floppy interface is starting to act squirrley, so I might need ANOTHER RMA soon :(

No other voters for the 1024 Vcore issues? I also don't see how a BIOS update could fix this (call me crazy)...

:cool:
 
Since getting this CT-479 for my Dothan. The droop has gone. Before the adapter with my 2.8C idle was 1.78v to get 1.69 load. It was like this on any vcore, it would drop almost 0.1 under load. Now with the adapter, idle 1.600 load is 1.600 - 1.580, thats with 1.600 in the bios also. Where as before 1.625 was 1.780 in windows, one huge overvolt. I can't really vote because of the adapter in place. Just a nice bit of info.

Scott.
 
Jimbob7 said:
Since getting this CT-479 for my Dothan. The droop has gone. Before the adapter with my 2.8C idle was 1.78v to get 1.69 load. It was like this on any vcore, it would drop almost 0.1 under load. Now with the adapter, idle 1.600 load is 1.600 - 1.580, thats with 1.600 in the bios also. Where as before 1.625 was 1.780 in windows, one huge overvolt. I can't really vote because of the adapter in place. Just a nice bit of info.

Scott.

Likely because the cpu your using now draws very little wattage/amps.
Even then you still would need to check with a mutlimeter to get the exact idle/load voltage. (is the only true way of knowing)
 
Yeh thats what i thought first off, although other people with the adapter have said that they still get huge droop. But then, the adapter makes the temps go sky high, so maybe it just reads vcore bad as well? The adapter is a funny thing really, i guess as long as its stable, nothing to worry about. Unless there 1.7v going through my Dothan, heh. Any how, just thought i'd add another side to this thread, droop wise.

Scott.
 
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