Water from a De-ionization unit?

hi guys. Long time no post hehe. Anyways, ive been getting into aquariums for the past year or so, and one of the processes for coral tank is Deioization or Reverse osmosis.

the DI unit can remove nearly ALL elements in the water so you have pure h20. My girlfriend and i went to a saltwater club at our local zoo where this water treatment guy came in and talked to us about it. He said that it wouldnt conduct electricity, which then instantly, LIGHTBULB! doesnt that mean onea these units will produce the liquid we can just submerge our equipment in without it shorting out?

Now me, hah no way i can afford a DI system, a cheap one is about as much as my G5. However in the SW club a few members do have DI machines, as well does the zoo, and the aquariaist that works there joins us monthly, so im wondering if i could get some DI water and test it out

anyone have any info on this? tried it? know someone with a DI system?

If I am correct there are two concerns here:

1) Water is slightly ionic. The equilibrium is very much towards H20 but a small quantity of H30+ and OH- will be formed. I don't know how much damage it would do.

2) The water will still have oxygen in it afaik and then may still corrode your kit and....

3) ...together with any metal or compounds on the surface of your equipment may form ions in the water and increase conductivity.

I guess if it were running all the time.... maybe.... but I'm not sure.

Deionized water is ill-advised, as it will ionize, using the metals inside your loop.

That sounds like it would be great in a water cooling loop tho.

It should be pretty clean but....

Once it comes in contact with the metals in your loop the 'de-ionized' part will be finished and done with. In short its going to be some pretty clean water to put into your loop but once there it will conduct electricity and it will need anti-corrosion additives and most probably some form of anti-growth additive unless you are certain that all the components in your loop were perfectly clean with no impurities.

It should be a good starting place however for your coolant

thats what i thought actually, i figured if i got it in touch with the metal, itd pick it up

but i agree, i think itd be a g reat coolant, as we wouldnt have to be as careful, itd be alittle more forgiving. ...but then again, once it runs thru the rad and block itll become ionized with copper/alluminum

I think it would pull ions from the air to some degree, so if you deionized it, left it out for a few days, and tested it, you'd probably have more ions in it then you did before.