Pictures are here :)

RDWest2005 · Dec 6, 2005

Wuzzup guys,
A couple guys that helped me said to be sure and bring some pictures back. So here are a few.

In this first pic, the bottom left grey file server tower is athlon xp 1700+ that i have worked on for 5 years.

The 2 white old boxes run Carolina Customs.
top white box is GentooLinux Stage 3 install with GenKernel (e mail server)
Bottom white box is GentooLinux Stage 1 install optomized to the gills (web server)

Here is my beast

Fans are just sitting on top - they a little crooked

5|*42 · Dec 6, 2005

Looks good.Got any night shots so we can see the lights better? And what temps are you getting? And what is the stuff that you used to wrap the cables with, I've never seen that before.

RDWest2005 · Dec 6, 2005

I just got this little cheap digital camara today - i can't get it to take without flash and look right

But all my UV liquid is gone

I found an aditive at advanced auto to drop temps 20 degrees and it foooooked it up\turned into a baby sh*t geen color and no UV in liquid

the wire wrapping was found at circuit city on a spool - its UV

~RD

pwnt by pat · Dec 6, 2005

I like the way you did the SLI but your top card is probably getting little to no collant flow. You would be better if you replaced the tees with wyees

GearShift3r · Dec 6, 2005

Nice setup. Clean up some wires and you're good!

-GearShift3r

5|*42 · Dec 6, 2005

I would just stick with distilled water and antifreeze (90:10) and a few drops of iodine, the more additives you put in the loop the worse thermal conductivity you'll have.
And to restate what pattycakes said, I like the way you have your SLI setup.

RDWest2005 · Dec 6, 2005

i can't find no wyees - and i was going to run it in series - but the cheap nylon tubing would crimp flat real easy - so that T's were the best way the didn't crip as bad

!RD

Senater_Cache · Dec 6, 2005

YOu have some serious kinking ussues with your bottom GPU. Plus the Tees are a bad idea. Maybe Yees or maybe run the two blocks inline Xing over the tubing. Whichever,get yourself some coolsleeves or something asap, I doubt that bottom card is getting any flow and the T is capping your pressure at this point.

RDWest2005 · Dec 7, 2005

i can see thw water flowing - it is flying - the crimps are not closed at all but nore at a flat opening - but YES - i want series - where do i find Yees at ? - unless i buy some good tubing that don't crimp?

d94 · Dec 7, 2005

nice to see someone else using WC in a v2000a

and w/a different approach too

what kinds of temps do you get?

y2jed_2000 · Dec 7, 2005

ur rad setup looks like mine....good job, looks great

pwnt by pat · Dec 7, 2005

d94 said:
nice to see someone else using WC in a v2000a
and w/a different approach too

what kinds of temps do you get?

That's a Xaser?

Senater_Cache · Dec 7, 2005

if you can put your GPUs in series by crossing the tubings in an X (if thats physically poeeible given your space). maybe consider switching that part of your loop to 7/16" ID tubing for its slightly tighter bend radius.
Now that I think of it, I dont think that the MCW55 has a prefference towards which barb is inlet or outlet. I am not 100% sure as I dont own one but i am pretty confident that it doesnt matter. With that in mind youcan easily put th eblocks in series as you dont have to X-cross your tubing.

Yees can be purchased at Lowes or HomeDepot or any big hardware store.

RDWest2005 · Dec 7, 2005

my apogee cpu block hasn't arrived yet - but bottom of this block is running around 28c at me current room temp

I have my old thermaltake big water block with 1/2" fittings - the holes are very small - so it is restricting flo bad i'm sure

cpu temp is 34c right now - chipset is 35c - gpu's at 38c

i'm not touching nothing else till i get a custom shroud to place fans 6" above rad
then i'll add the apogee block and get all new tygon tubing to get kinks out - i was thinking to get the uv tubing and then i can run whatever liquid and they still glow

~RD

RDWest2005 · Dec 7, 2005

PS----
All thanks goes to you guys...
I never even knew of water cooling etc till I found this forum

~RD

pwnt by pat · Dec 7, 2005

Why 6 inches? That's a little excessive, I think. You shouldn't need more than about three at the most.

WarriorII · Dec 7, 2005

pwnt by pat said:
Why 6 inches? That's a little excessive, I think. You shouldn't need more than about three at the most.

Optimal placement, with no dead spots.

For the time being, an old cardboard box, cut up/ w/duct tape will work.

"If it looks pretty, it prolly don't run right, if it looks like hel l, it'll run
like a raped ape"

:attn:

RDWest2005 · Dec 7, 2005

I made another post about switching the positive and negative on fans - the fans are upside down to pull air up through rad - i was wanting to switch the wire and reverse voltage so they are right side up -

i don't know if this will hurt the fans or not

and in that post a guy said by testing the fans perform better at 6" away with shroud

~RD

RDWest2005 · Dec 7, 2005

pwnt by pat said:
That's a Xaser?

Yes

Xaser III V2000A
Aluminum Series

pwnt by pat · Dec 7, 2005

switching positive and negative leads on your fans WILL kill them.

I was confused about my comment from d94. I thought he ment a Lian Li.

I still think 6 inches is excessive, especially for fans on Pull. If it were push, go for it. PM sewerbeing for his little graph, which he likes to post everywhere. It shows almost no drop in temperature with a shroud on the BIX rad.

Pictures are here :)

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