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barbs: metal vs. plastic

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poogl3

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Location
San Diego, CA
Hey all,

Do any of you have a preference between plastic and metal barbs? Also, do you generally use teflon tape to seal the threading or not?
 
Can't say I've developed a preference.
I use "GOOP" to seal the plastic barbs and all my metal ones are DD Hi-flows with o-rings.
 
Brass barbs are easier to get tubing into and off of, but plastic barbs are easier to screw all of the way into a thread. I find that RTV silicone works well. Teflon tape will seal, but it can be a pain to work with.
 
I use nylon(AKA plastic) for pump and other stuff that are maybe not all metal or are a soft metal. For copper and aluminum I use metal barbs becuase they are more durable and plastic doesn't always mate as well with these metals.

For sealing I hate thread tape it makes a mess so I use pipe dope becuase it very easy to clean up.
 
clocker2 said:
Can't say I've developed a preference.
I use "GOOP" to seal the plastic barbs and all my metal ones are DD Hi-flows with o-rings.

Did the DD ones come with components you ordered from them or can you get them separately? I'm sure the barbs aren't terribly important, but I am scared to death about springing a leak.
 
all my DD stuff(I have a maze 4 for every component they make one for) was already assembled and leak proof tested.

You are going to be fine there I would worry more about sealing the tubing around those barbs than the actual barbs leaking ;)
 
i prefur brass or nickle plated brass barbs. as long as you are carefull with the amount of torque when inserting barbs in blocks you should have no problems.
 
poogl3 said:
Did the DD ones come with components you ordered from them or can you get them separately? I'm sure the barbs aren't terribly important, but I am scared to death about springing a leak.
You can buy them seperately.
 
I use worm drive clamps on all barbs, nylon or nickel high-flows, and plumbers tape on the threads of all nylon barbs. Call me paranoid but I'm 99% sure I won't pop a leak. ;)
 
Perseus said:
I use worm drive clamps on all barbs, nylon or nickel high-flows, and plumbers tape on the threads of all nylon barbs. Call me paranoid but I'm 99% sure I won't pop a leak. ;)

Where do you get the nylon/nickel high-flows?
 
Thanks for all the info. I am going to order some of those barbs right now, as well as a DD fillport and D5 pump. Once those arrive I will have:

* Swiftech Apogee CPU block
* Thermochill PA160 rad
* 25 feet 7/16" ID MasterKleer tubing
* DD D5 pump
* DD fillport
* DD 1/2" OD barbs with o-rings

All I need to do then is decide on a GPU block for my 7800GTX, and grab some OCZ copper BGA ramsinks. Also, I will pick up some worm clamps at the local hardware store.

Can anyone think of anything I'm forgetting?
 
I think the easiest method of filling would be to use 100% distilled water at first until the entire loop is bled (this only takes about 15 minutes because it is pure distilled, no additives to make the water foam), pour two capfuls of Water Water or Xerex Racing Fluid into the T-line, the natural turbulance in the t-line will disperse the fluid for you.
 
I have also heard that some people add Iodine. What does this do? Also, will the gallon of distilled water at the local grocery store suffice?
 
I don't know what the racing coolant cost - but GM DEX COOL Prestone is great - the orange stuff for late model cars woth aluminum blocks and platics

my pD 840 dual core with 130watts of thermal heat only climbed about 4 degrees
twisting it from 3.2 to 3840ghz all through 3dmark05

and the gpu blocks DD has the low profiles - i got the regualar maze4 gpu block cuz my P5ND2 has like 3 slots between my 7800s

O and you can get the copper ram sinks for mem on cards from DD too

dang - i forgot

DD has a sli kit with 2 lowprofile maze4 gpu blocks that has 16 ram sinks included - about 116$ bucks i think
 
I'm not sure about this, but I don't think the Barbs are Annodized, meaning the Copper in your waterblocks is going through bare Aluminum Barbs. Should avoid mixing the two metals. Thats why plastic is better.

Maze 4 is the Most Used VGA block. It works great and is future proof. Any Ramsinks are sufficient for the memory (Zalman, Thermaltake, BGA..)

Antifreeze Hinders cooling performance. It is only added for its Anti Corrosion Additives. Antifreeze is designed to work with 50/50 Ratio, so because Computer Liquid Cooing uses much less,typicallly 10%, Anticorrosion inhibiters are in much less ammounts than necessary. Especially since you have Aluminum and Copper in your system you'll have to add more antifreeze.

Zerex Super Coolant is an corrosion inhibiting additve that also has surficants, which increase cooling ability (though very slightly). Its not antifreeze. Water Wetter is something like Zerex.

Idealy that mixed with DI water would yield most performance and longetivity of the system.
 
Zenjirou,

So you recommend that I go with plastic barbs, and then use a combination of DI water with water wetter, or was this combination what I should use if I go with the DD barbs?
 
just get some antifreeze from an autozone or other auto store.

Personally, i like using metal barbs so that i can enlarge the inner diameter a bit. I just get the barbs at home depot, although not all home depots carry them.
 
poogl3 said:
I have also heard that some people add Iodine. What does this do? Also, will the gallon of distilled water at the local grocery store suffice?

Consider Hydrx also. It's simple to use, no guess-work about ratio's or what else to add, and its kept my loop whistle clean for about 6-months. And yes, grocery store distilled will work just fine.
 
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