• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

bix III

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

madhatR

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2004
Location
NJ
do they make a chrome one ? i know i have seen a bix and a bix II in chrome .. but never a bix III ..

also would this be better to use then a bix II since i might have the room in my case to cool cpu .. and sli'd 7800 gtx 512s
 
For a CPU, AND 2 7800 512 GTX's you would NEED alteast a BIX3! lol You might consider looking at a thermochill RAD, they cool a little bit better, and with all of that in the loop, you made need it.
 
The BIXIII would allow for a larger total volume of h20 in your loop as well as more surface area than a BIXII. Those two things in conjunction would yield slightly lower temps over that of the BIXII.
 
The BIXIII would allow for a larger total volume of h20 in your loop as well as more surface area than a BIXII. Those two things in conjunction would yield slightly lower temps over that of the BIXII.

The slightly more amount of water won't cool one bit better. Water doesn't cool (phase change aside). Water only acts as a carrier to transfer heat from one location to another, namely from the watercooling blocks, etc. to outside air via a rad of some sort. It will only VERY slightly delay the amount of time takes for the water temp to stabilize. That having been said, a BIXII will cool that fine provided you use some 80+cfm fans or so. A BIXIII can cool better because of the increased surface area, and can allow you to use slower fans or undervolt a bit and get good results. And if you really like quiet and can fit it, go with a BIPIII and some slow fans.

Let's not forget folks that it is not just all about rads, it is also about how we dissipate that heat into the air which for most of us is also about airflow.
 
I'd go w/ Thermochill PA120.3 instead BIXIII, I know it's expensive but it offers better performance w/ low CFM Fans
 
For a CPU, AND 2 7800 512 GTX's you would NEED alteast a BIX3

you do not NEED anything other than a single 120 rad. anything more helps but do not fall for the above statement. it has absolutely no scientific backing
 
voigts said:
The slightly more amount of water won't cool one bit better. Water doesn't cool (phase change aside). Water only acts as a carrier to transfer heat from one location to another, namely from the watercooling blocks, etc. to outside air via a rad of some sort. It will only VERY slightly delay the amount of time takes for the water temp to stabilize. That having been said, a BIXII will cool that fine provided you use some 80+cfm fans or so. A BIXIII can cool better because of the increased surface area, and can allow you to use slower fans or undervolt a bit and get good results. And if you really like quiet and can fit it, go with a BIPIII and some slow fans.

Let's not forget folks that it is not just all about rads, it is also about how we dissipate that heat into the air which for most of us is also about airflow.

Not to split hairs with you, but given the specific heat of water any increase in it volume will give it a larger capacity to carry heat. I know this difference from a 2x120 rad to a 3x120 rad will not be HUGE but it will be there given all other things are constant.
 
Not to split hairs with you, but given the specific heat of water any increase in it volume will give it a larger capacity to carry heat

not in a closed system that cycles the water at a constant stable temp. the volume it self is not large enough for the surface area of that volume to contribute signifigantly to cooling without the use of a rad
 
Ok, then let me ask a question since I have two people opposing my thought process. I am a Biologist by education (bacteriologist) and chemistry is not my strong suit, but I do know some. the equation to calculate specific heat goes as follows:
quantity of heat transfered
Specific heat= Quantity of heat transfered / (grams of substance...aka h20)*(temperature change)

So just as an example let's say we have the following scenario....


Specific heat=1000 J / 100 * 1.00 K= 10 J g-1K-1


Now let's increase the amount of water keeping all other variables constant....


Specific heat =1000 J / 150 * 1.0 K= 6.667 J g-1K-1


Scenario 1 has less less water and a higher specific heat value and scenario 2 has more water and a lower specific heat. Doesn't that meant that the more water you have the more energy (heat) you need to put into the system to raise the temperature to the same level as the one with less water?

Also, Calorimetry is done in a closed system so why would this application be any different?
 
Alchemy1 said:
Ok, then let me ask a question since I have two people opposing my thought process. I am a Biologist by education (bacteriologist) and chemistry is not my strong suit, but I do know some. the equation to calculate specific heat goes as follows:
quantity of heat transfered
Specific heat= Quantity of heat transfered / (grams of substance...aka h20)*(temperature change)

So just as an example let's say we have the following scenario....


Specific heat=1000 J / 100 * 1.00 K= 10 J g-1K-1


Now let's increase the amount of water keeping all other variables constant....


Specific heat =1000 J / 150 * 1.0 K= 6.667 J g-1K-1


Scenario 1 has less less water and a higher specific heat value and scenario 2 has more water and a lower specific heat. Doesn't that meant that the more water you have the more energy (heat) you need to put into the system to raise the temperature to the same level as the one with less water?

Also, Calorimetry is done in a closed system so why would this application be any different?

I think you answered the question right there with your formula. Sure the difference is huge, but you added 50% more water.

Going from a BIX2 to a BIX3 is not going to add anywhere NEAR 50% more water to the loop, sure it will add approx 50% more water to your radiator space, but the quantity of water in your tubing will generally be much more than that in your radiator.

A more realistic figure would be about 20%.. so lets do the math again.

Scenario 1. Specific heat=1000 J / 100 * 1.00 K= 10 J g-1K-1
Scenario 2 . Specific heat=1000 J / 120 * 1.00 K= 8.3334 J g-1K-1

Still an increase, but nowhere near as significant.

Of course you will notice a fairly large increase in most situations since you are adding the dissapation of the radiator.. but simply making your resiviour 20% larger will not make more than a fraction of a degree difference under full load..
 
I totally agree with you. That was my point all along. If you look at my first post I said there will be a SLIGHT difference in temps. I was just using those numbers as examples...lol
 
the heat capacity has nothing to do with STEADY STATE water cooling system. Having slightly more water volume means the system temps will take slightly longer to stabilize, but has nothing to do with cooling once equilibrium has been reached.

thorilian is correct. google/read up on some intro to heat transfer and steady state cycles.
 
So then I can't put a 55 gal drum of water in my loop and get rid of the rad and fans? Aw, shucks! Shot down by the laws of thermodynamics...again.
 
billb said:
So then I can't put a 55 gal drum of water in my loop and get rid of the rad and fans? Aw, shucks! Shot down by the laws of thermodynamics...again.
Actually, you probably could. I'm pretty sure some people have used buckets with Via 1300/1800s before in budget setups.
 
So 55 would definitely work, and if you painted the drum it could look cool too. It might be a little obtrusive in a smaller room, but that's just the price you have to pay for style.
 
sorry to say you will see no diference in temps . not even slight diference in temps because the temp of the coolant will remain constant with what the radiator can disipate not with what the water can hold

edit: this is refurring to farther up in the thread not a 55 gallon drum btw
 
Back