Pop can variation

im testing a variation of the "pop can waterblock" and was wondering if i needed thermal paste to install it i have this stuff called Copper gasket silicone sealant, suited for high tmps, will this stuff work for thermal compound? the variation,

canning jar sealer
pop can bottom
silicone sealer(really tough stuff)
really tight hose connectors
fish tank pump
a carton of smokes
4 days of work

of course i have to state, this is mt first attempt at a homebrewed water cooling system (will be tested in an old P3) , and that im really new to CPU overclocking.

no, that sealent WON'T WORK.

it traps heat IN. the reason its stated for high temps, is that it won't burn easily. And its a good insulator.

Like, this stuff would probably be put on the pipes of a pellet burner. the pipes which lead outside, to let the dirty air out. This stuff won't char, or burn like other sealents will.

Trust me, this stuff will KILL your processor, due to excessive heat.

so do i NEED thermal compound?

Its highly not recommended to go without it, and would definately skew your results with watercooling.

Is it too hard to find some or you just dont want to spend any money? Apparently toothpaste is better than nothing at all.. maybe try that

im broke as f***,+there isnt a computer store around here, and im sorta writing an essay on free water cooling, with househole items for computers and technology. so toothpaste? like some good ol regular white paste?

Yep. There was an article on overclockers.com about it.. Not sure exactly what they used. I'll look it up.

Btw if the toothpaste thing falls through you can get cheap junk silicone paste at radioshack for like.. lunch money $. (<$2-3)

Some reading material:
http://overclockers.com/tips1214/
http://www.dansdata.com/goop.htm

it seems ill be using some diaper rash cream until i can get a ride why i have diaper rash cream, i do not kno

Please pardon me, but I'm puzzled on this one.

Pop can bottom? Toothpaste? Diaper rash cream? On a P3 processor? Seems to me that if you (or anyone that might read your paper) can afford a computer even with an old processor, they could afford real cooling components. Besides, given the options posed in this thread, I'd stay with the air cooler that came with the processor. If someone can't afford decent cooling components, why risk a processor with such components? Thrill maybe? This is like using bed linens as a parachute.

I guess I don't understand the point of this, really. It's unusual for me to be critical of other's endeavors, and I don't mean to come off as mean spirited, but this one has me baffled. Is there a side story that I've missed?

its my ocing learning computer for one. and i took the fan out so i could getter cool my new pc, whitch stll stays at 65C constantly. im trying to see how well i can cool a pc without paying anything for a school project. in computers and tech of course. im risking the processor because im going to trade it in to new egg for some coupons. and all i can get is 37$ for it.

Ah, I see. I figured there was a good reason. Overclockers tend to be smarter than average in my opinion. I should have given you the benefit of the doubt.

Wouldn't the plumbing department at Lowes or Home Depot be of interest? And, I just bet if you went to a construction site someone would be willing to let you browse through their copper fittings to find one that would work, then let you have it for free. Contractors get these things for fractions of what it costs the home improvement customer. I've seen threads about using copper pipe caps as blocks, and some of the earliest PC water cooling rigs used them.

copper fittings arent as common in the average household as say a pop can and a canning jar lid.

i would go with either no TIM or something like toothpaste instead of the sealant stuff.

interesting project, im not sure if i am as bold as you and make a water cooling system out of a pop can, but i also heard something about using toothpaste as your TIM. If you ever finish this project i think eveyone would love to see some pics and temps...

So wait, what are you using for the base? I'm pretty sure a pop can won't work very well at all. Find a piece of aluminum or copper that's flat. Maybe an aluminum ruler? Or maybe an old heatsink? Also, you can use sunscreen as a thermal compound, too.

I never even though to mention that.. soda cans are very concave. I'd imagine your contact would be horrible..

A better solution would be to try to find some aluminum somewhere, even a copper pipe cap would be a good idea. Your local hardware store would have to have one..

anyway, even if you do manage to get a block for free (very doubtful.. maybe for <$10 but $0.. eh) what do you plan to do for a radiator?

I applaud you for this project. And it is a very good one.

Technically the pop can water block is one of the better ones. It sustains a very high turbulance in the flood block and almost always allows for very fast heat transfer due to how this the metals are being used.

I built one of these in the past and it worked great. Just make sure you seal the block really well. I would highly suggest not using silicone sealent to glue it together but instead use jb weld. I expiremented with this and any kind of caulk generally doesnt hold up well.

Also make sure your base your glueing the top of the pop can down to is firm and flat. Im not sure a mason jar lid will work well. It will if it is aluminum but most of the ones the sell here in amish contry in PA are all brass so be carefull of that. Also markl your inlet so you dont get confused wich one is which. I would wink your inlet in towards the die so the most turbulance in the water is pointed right on the die and keep your outless as far out towards the mounting on the pop can as possible.

Also I would highly suggest waiting and getting the cheapo silicone heatsink compound from radioshack if nothing else. Toothepaste, peanut butter, and diaper rash cream all work better then artic silver supposebly but dry out with in days. After it dries you ave to remove and reapply it which is a bad thing for this water block. This water block has a tendancy of haveing the bards fall off on you due to the tension of the tubing if it's moved around to much.

Also dont forget when assembling it to sand heavily everywhere you are going to be glueing the water block together with. This will help adhere everything much better.

And what are you using for the radiator by the way? I dont recall you mention that.

thank you all for the support, i finsihed the first one, it worked for about 30 min, and took temps down on the CPU to 34C on a P3 at an overclock from 669mhZ- 1.6GHz. then i turned the pc off and as soon as i removed the block, it burst. luckily nothing was ruined, i will have pics soon.