• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Radiator help needed...

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

MyButtBurns

Disabled
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
OK, I am building my first WC setup,and need a little help choosing a radiator thats going to satisfy my needs.I plan on cooling my A64 3500+ and also mt 6800GT GPU.I already have an Apogee CPU block and a Swiftech MCW55 VGA waterblock.I plan on buying a Swiftech MCP655 pump OR a Mag3---but feel free to mention other pumps that you might feel are better suited for a WC setup.I need help picking out a radiator which will offer the best cooling at an economical price(money is not tight, but I dont want to pay an exorbinant amount of money to buy parts that only give marginal results.Please advise me on which pump is better,and which radiator is preferred.Please advice on which pump and radiator offer the best bang for the buck for someone who doesnt want a cheap WC setup,but doesnt want to pay an extra $20-40 for a part that will only lower temps by a small fraction a a degree.

Also, beside the tubing and clamps, what else will I need? Is resovoir recommended?Anything else I might have missed?
 
Some people use reservoirs, others, such of myself, prefer to use a T line... For me, its easier to fill and empty my system with a T line vs having a res (and worrying about it cracking/leaking) I use a T line because the way I setup my loop, it is completely removable, while still closed. Just move it to the sink, empty or fill then back in my case.

If you are looking for an efficient yet inexpensive solution, a heater core is a great option. Maybe not as ascetically pleasing as a bix, but just as powerful IMO.
 
Reservoirs are perfectly safe if you take ALL the proper precautions, but I've seen many many res's leak.

I'll second the heatercore, you can have them for around $20 and perform at least as well as a BIX2 (fedco 2-302). With a little spray paint (properly applied) it will look tasty.

The MCP655 is a great pump, go with that if you don't mind the price.
 
Heater core? isnt that in the radiator itself? What exactly does the radiator do if its not necessary?

Now I am confused.For cooling my CPU, GPU and possibly my chipset(further down the road), will I want a radiator or jst a T-line? If radiator is recommended, then which radiator is recommended for my purposes?

As a matter of fact, can someone recommend to me what I need beside my BPU block, CPU block and pump? I'll go with the mcw655 pump,and already listed the water blocks I'll be using.Please tell me what else is needed since I am now a little confused. I was under the impression that I just needed a radiator, water block(s), pump, tubing clamps, tubing and a reservoir---but now I am confused. Am I buying too much or too little?
 
Last edited:
MyButtBurns said:
Heater core? isnt that in the radiator itself? What exactly does the radiator do if its not necessary?

Now I am confused.For cooling my CPU, GPU and possibly my chipset(further down the road), will I want a radiator or jst a T-line? If radiator is recommended, then which radiator is recommended for my purposes?

A heatercore, typically from a vehicle, is a cheaper than most radiators (under $20 at your autoparts store or junkyard) My first WC setup, I used a heatercore and was surprised at how well it functioned, it cools as good as my black ice extreme; but usually will require a shroud or means of attaching fans to the heater core.

A T line provides an easy way to "top off" your loop, and is cheaper than a res. Hope this helps.
 
You will need:a radiator OR heatercore, water block(s), pump, tubing clamps, tubing and a reservoir OR T line.. Water wetter or some solution to prevent corrosion and algae. You will also need a fan or two for your radiator... as to the best fan, well, get one with high cfm and low noise.
 
The t-line or res thing really depends on how you setup your loop. For me, I used to use a T-line but now I have a res and it is SO much easier to empty/fill and bleed. I have my res so that I can unscrew it and move it outside the case to dump it out or fill it up without touching anything else.
 
Thanks for all your help guys.I heard good things about Zerex Super Coolant( better things than with Water Wetter). I also think I'll go with a reservoir to make maintenance easier.Can I get a few recommendations for a radiator? I was considering the BI Xtreme Xflow, but I dont want to buy something thats not needed.Shall I go with a 3x120, or just a 2x120 radiator? Also, is there any real performance difference with the Xflow technology versus non-Xflow Black Ice radiators?
 
black ice extreme II (dual pass)


and for the GPU water block, get a danger den maze 4 so that it has native 1/2" fittings to go with everything else in your system

-J
 
Sneaky said:
black ice extreme II (dual pass)


and for the GPU water block, get a danger den maze 4 so that it has native 1/2" fittings to go with everything else in your system

-J

I already purchased a Swiftech MCW55 VGA waterblock.Can you explain why you recommended a 2x120 radiator without the Xflow technology as opposed to a 3x120 radiator? I just want to make sure that I buy an adequate radiator that wont have to be replaced when I upgrade my WC setup.I am hoping to place my order today so I can recieve it by the weekend, so if someone can tell me why a 2x120 or a 3x120 radiator is best for me, I would appreciate it.You see, I am still learning, and these answers are a big help.Also, is there an advantage to a radiator with the Xflow technology,or not?
 
citronym said:
Not. If it was me (doesn't mean much) I would go for the BIXII Dual pass.
Ah...after some research, I was able to find out that the Xflow is NOT recommended above the BI Xtreme version due to the thickness of the Xflow models and their inability to cool well because of the thinkness.

Now I just need to know why a 2x120 dual rad is better than a 3x120 dual rad. Any responses to this?

Also, would this heater core be better than,say, a BI Pro 2(dual)?
Heater Core Link

And again, why should I get a BI Xtreme 2 over a BI Xtreme 3? I would imagine the Xtreme 3 would be better(at least for upgradability), but surely there is a reason why someone recommended the Xtreme 2 over the Xtreme 3.Please advise.

Again, thanks for all the educational stuff you guys are helping me with!
 
For most purposes the BIXII is plenty of cooling potential. The III isn't worse by any means, but just simply not usually needed. That simple.

That heatercore would perform similarly to a BI II series rad, assuming you already know the difference between the pro and xtreme.

However, you can probably get that heatercore at autozone (assuming you're in the states) for a little less than half the price ($20ish), although they seem to be a little more expensive in some markets, for whatever reason.
 
Very interesting...so the Xtreme 3 is more of an overkill.From what I've read, it seems like a heater core is optimal, but less attractive. Would anyone concur? Is the performance between an Xtreme2 and heater core about the same, or does one hold a performance advantage?I am so excited now that I know exactly what I need to get....now I just have to figre out if a heater core or Xtreme2 is best for my needs.
 
I concur. I couldn't tell you which is better, but I'm pretty sure they are close enough to call them even for all intents and purposes (espicially considering price).

I've seen a lot of people that made their heatercore look as good as a Black Ice rad looks. Just use a little black spray paint (or whatever color you like). Just be sure to apply it at a sharp angle so the paint stays on the outer edges of the fins and doesnt cover the fins through the middle of the core, understand?
 
So, to spray paint a heatercore, you should spray the paint at a very downward angle so you dont cover the fins?? How much of a downward angle?
 
Exactly, spray at a heavy angle. You dont need paint on the fins themselves, only on the edges. You can't see the paint on the fins in the middle anyway, and you'll also be comprimising the cores cooling capabilities.

If you have any doubts or questions, speak up. Don't try something if you don't 100% understand the principal.
 
Get some plastic painters drop cloth and tape off the finned area, leaving only the the part you wish to paint exposed.
 
Back