Advice...

[AmIdYfReAk]

hay everyone...

ok.... as i said my my last Thread a wile ago.. i need a Upgrade..

and i was Eyeballing An Athlon XP 1800+ and MSI K7T-Turbo2 mobo...

Now.. i was Reading Tonshardware and they had issues on unlocking the XP... i was Wonderin do you Guys know how do do it? i was thinkning trace Tape...

and also Should i Wait and Get the Mobo with Nvidia's Nforce...

[AmIdYfReAk]

and also, would any of you Guy's know that max Multiplyer on the Mobo... im Hoping atleast 14X....

[Kendan]

Check the front page. trace tape does not work. At least that is what Plycon is saying and they were the ones selling it.

[AmIdYfReAk]

would you know what does work??

plz say yes! :D

[AmIdYfReAk]

Ok, sorry. i read the Front Page.... but is that the Only Way right now???

Because i dont think i can do that... ill end up Frying the Chip.. :D

[Oni]

Cover the dots w/ tape.
Fill the pits w/ superglue.
Let harden.
Paint w/ Rear Window Defogger Kit.
Enjoy! ^_^

[AmIdYfReAk]

That seems to be about the SAME! :D

Well..... if i Fry it, its you ill be commin After.....


and BTW, anyone have a Magnefying glass????

those damned Bridges are the Size of a Pin head....

Thanks all.....

but do you Guys know What the max Multiplyer for the MSI K7T Turbo2 is???

[cyburnt]

use permatex weld stick to fill the gaps (can be found at any autoparts store) and has the texture of modeling clay but hardens like a rock. Just smear it into the gaps w/a credit card and make sure to wipe the bridge connections. hardens in about 10-20 minutes. Idiot proof. Then use defogger paint or even a #2 pencil to connect the L1 bridges
Good luck!
:rolleyes: :mad:

[AmIdYfReAk]

Originally posted by AmIdYfReAk
but do you Guys know What the max Multiplyer for the MSI K7T Turbo2 is???

:rolleyes:

[AmIdYfReAk]

nevermind.... i got it.. its 7.5 - 15X max....

14 X 150 =2100mhz! :D

nice nice.. thanks all......:cool:

[nihili]

Originally posted by cyburnt
use permatex weld stick to fill the gaps (can be found at any autoparts store) and has the texture of modeling clay but hardens like a rock. Just smear it into the gaps w/a credit card and make sure to wipe the bridge connections. hardens in about 10-20 minutes. Idiot proof. Then use defogger paint or even a #2 pencil to connect the L1 bridges
Good luck!
:rolleyes: :mad:

Has someone actually done this successfully yet? Last I heard it was in the idea stage. I'd be interested in any first hand reports.

nihili

[cyburnt]

I tested it for conductivity and workability, but am still waiting for my chip. I'll let you know, but I don't see how it can fail.

[nihili]

Originally posted by cyburnt
I tested it for conductivity and workability, but am still waiting for my chip. I'll let you know, but I don't see how it can fail.

Here are some ways it could fail. I'm not saying it will fail. I actually thing you've got a great idea. But being aware of the ways it *might* fail, may help you succeed. I don't really understand why the pits are a problem. Maybe I'll start a thread and see if I can find out. In any case here's a list off the top of my head. If it's too whacko, well, just take a look at where it came from. ;)

nihili

If you accidentally smear some of the permatex on the points and that prevents contact. (I'd use tape to help prevent this.)

If the cohesive force with in the permatex is stronger than the adhesive force between the goop and the chip. In this case the goop won't bond to the chip. We're working with an untested organic compound here, so who knows.

If the goop uses a chemical bond for adhesion, that bond may disrupt the electrical properties of the chip.

If the goop has some reactive effect with the organic compound they make the chip from.

If the expansion properties of the chip and the goop are sufficently different at operating temperature that the bond weakens or the connections break.

If gettuing to the points requires sanding, then the goop may actually make sanding more difficult.

If the construction of the chip is such that the contacts that need to be joined actually lie within the pit (say, on the sides) so that the goop would prevent them from being joined.

[plague]

Originally posted by AmIdYfReAk
nevermind.... i got it.. its 7.5 - 15X max....

14 X 150 =2100mhz! :D

nice nice.. thanks all......:cool:
good luck with that one :cool:

[Christoph]

Superglue on an organic compound? Sounds good, but I won't do it unless someone else has already done it and gotten away with it. Superglue and a pencil sounds much cheaper than Permatex and a conductive pen, even if I have to look for a #3 pencil.

[Cube]

Can't you just use the Defogger paint to fill the gaps as well as connect the bridges?

[cyburnt]

Weld stick is only about 3 or 4 bucks and you can't pencil superglue. I'll be sending for all my new hardware on wednsday. I'm definately going ahead with my plan of using weld stick. I'll let you all know ASAP.;)

[cyburnt]

PS --do NOT degogger paint into the gap! Ther apears to be some semi-exposed circuitry below the ash in the gap. anything conductive in there will most likely fry your chip.:mad:

[Christoph]

In case you missed that the first time,
DO NOT USE DEFOGGER PAINT TO FILL THE GAPS.