researching about water cooling

[soul814]

I was just wondering if there was any links where it shows someone putting together a water cooling system from scratch w/ pics.

--> Question
Do you set up the water cooling before or after you install your computer?
I'm guessing after but I see some people posting up pics of water cooling systems without the rest of their pc, I'm guessing the advantage would be that if there was a leak you would see it?

[veryhumid]

yes, people may build their computer initally, but once all the tubing is measured and assembled with the blocks, pumps and rad, it is good to leak test with no components in the computer.

[Mac]

not really a tutorial, but its a start.

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1222/

[soul814]

the guide is nice, and i have a question about the water block on the cpu. Does the bolt go through the motherboard? or you just pull out the stock heatsink holder and put the bolt in its place.

[batboy]

Most blocks have hardware that requires you to remove the motherboard to install. If you go to the Swiftech website, they have complete installation instructions you can view.

I like to leak test my systems before I install all my components. But, you can leak test with the computer assembled if you want, as long as it's turned off and not running. In other words, you just run the pump to circulate the coolant.

[soul814]

i was looking at the STORM water block setup instructions, does it really come in a those little parts and you have to assemble it? Or does it come in like 2 pieces and the screws and washers and stuff.

I was wondering, if you do a leak test without attaching all your components on and its fine. Would there still be a chance that it can break when you attach it to your components?

[citronym]

does it really come in a those little parts and you have to assemble it? Or does it come in like 2 pieces and the screws and washers and stuff.
I'm pretty sure you have to assemble it.


I was wondering, if you do a leak test without attaching all your components on and its fine. Would there still be a chance that it can break when you attach it to your components?
Sure it could, its likely happened before. However I believe if you take proper care and don't treat the equipment like a frisbee you should be fine. Continue the leak test after the hardware is installed (without energizing any components other than wc) if you aren't sure.

[sunrunner20]

Leak testing is mostly a don't-be-a-fool science. Useing your head is the primary key. My system is litterally built into the case(well, I have tubes running through a hole, so I have to take it ALL apart to get it out of my case) so I set up and leaktested without any components installed in my case. Then I spent 3 days getting my whitewater sealed up... After that it was overnight leak test, then install and 12 more hours. I did not put my 6800U back in untill a week later.

[techun]

i just got my apogee, and all i had to do was put 2 o rings on it, and decide which size barbs you want, and tighten them down

then you have to mount it to your cpu later

[soul814]

How do you know which tubes go where like from the radiator and pump, does it matter which hole? Does everything come w/ instructions. Thinking of trying water cooling on a new rig maybe in the summer. Don't really need a computer but always wanting to try out new things =) It would be nice if someone built a water cooling system w/ step by step pictures.

[citronym]

How do you know which tubes go where like from the radiator and pump, does it matter which hole? Does everything come w/ instructions. Thinking of trying water cooling on a new rig maybe in the summer. Don't really need a computer but always wanting to try out new things =) It would be nice if someone built a water cooling system w/ step by step pictures.
The pump and cpu block have an in and an out, but rads and gpu blocks dont matter. It really doesn't matter what order you put them in, just use the least amount of tubing with no tight bends.

[Otter]

i was looking at the STORM water block setup instructions, does it really come in a those little parts and you have to assemble it? Or does it come in like 2 pieces and the screws and washers and stuff.
Mine came fully assembled except for the barbs and the two O rings that go with them.

[batboy]

The order is not critical, although generally to bleed the air out of the system it's better to have the reservoir (or T-line) before the pump. The reservoir should also be above the pump. The reservoir, pump, and CPU water block have an inlet and outlet that you need to be mindful of. The instructions should tell you which is which. Most folks route watercooling this way (see pic) reservoir -> pump -> water block(s) -> radiator -> reservoir. You can substitute a T-line for the reservoir and the pic shows the GPU block before the CPU block, but I've done it the other way around with no problem. If you are not cooling the vid card, then ignore the GPU block and just go from the pump to the CPU block to the radiator.

http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/images/products/H20-APEX/apex2-installed.gif

[soul814]

question about radiators, so why need a big one? are danger dens xtreme pros the best ones?

[Otter]

The larger the radiator, the more air you can pull through it at a given noise level. And the greater the airflow, the lower the temperature differential between the coolant and the air.

Which radiator is best depends on the fans you use. If you want to use extremely quiet fans, the Thermochill PA series is the best of the PC rads. If you want to use extremely quiet fans, but you can't afford a Thermochill, the BIP is a good alternative. If you're going to use an automative blower, a heater core would probably be best as it's designed for that type of fan. It's also very cheap and is used in budget systems even with the relatively wimpy 120mm axial fans, though it's a bit more restrictive than the ideal radiator for our purposes. BIX probalby falls somewhere between a BIP and heater a core, and might be the best choice for high powered 120mm fans, but don't take my word for it as I know little about that end of the spectrum.

[soul814]

Not planning to buy these any time soon until I make my next rig, which is probably in a few years lol, I just don't have the funding for it right now. But I plan on making a amd x2 for my next system. How are the parts? Probably going to change in a few years.

12V DD-D5 Pump NEW!
What do you do the the DD-D4? You make it better with the DD-D5 a12Volt pump with near silent operation and a built in flow adjustment potentiometer!


Selected options:
Fitting Size: 1/2" OD Fittings (For 1/2" ID Tubing)




$74.95 x = $74.95

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Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD
The highest quality, most reliable tubing on the market.




$2.80 x = $28.00

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MAZE4 for AMD XP/MP Processors
A high performing low flow resistant water block that performs well with any combination of components.


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Top Style: Lucite
Fitting Size: 1/2" OD High Flow Chrome Fittings (For 1/2" ID Tubing)
Spare O-Ring: None




$34.95 x = $34.95

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Danger Den Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir
Danger Den Dual Bay Reservoir (HDP) is designed to fit into TWO (2) 5-1/4 drive bays. Manufactured with Lucite for a clear view of the water level.


Selected options:
Fitting Size: 1/2" OD Fittings for 1/2" ID Tubing
Reservoir Color: Clear




$31.95 x = $31.95

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ThermoChill HE120.2
A high perfomance radiator designed for use with TWO 120mm fans.


Selected options:
Fittings: 1/2" OD Fittings




$104.99 x = $104.99


Where would you get the worm clamps?

[Otter]

Worm clamps can be had at any hardware or auto parts store.

Don't believe the hype. The D5 is quiet, but people interested in making a truely silent computer consider it rather loud. Otherwise, it's a good pump.

Also consider 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tubing.
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=331742

In two years, we'll probably see a new generation of radiators. To see where things are going, check out the Thermochill PA160. This rad is designed to make the most of a single quiet 120mm fan. It was developed in this thread:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10000&page=4
Eventually, we may see two or three fan radiators with similar airflow characteristics.

A slow move to 140mm fans is also possible. Keep your eye out for the Yate Loon D14SL-12.

The Maze4 remains a good choice for the GPU, but jet impingement CPU blocks outperform the older design by a good margin. With a dual-core CPU, you want something with less C/W. As long as you're just dreaming, think Switftech Storm. It's a bit pricey, but it is the current king of the hill.
http://www.systemcooling.com/images/reviews/LiquidCooling/Swiftech_Storm/image22big.gif
http://www.systemcooling.com/images/reviews/LiquidCooling/Swiftech_Apogee/image27big.gif

[soul814]

technically i have the money to buy the computer i want but then i would have no more =), maybe if in the summer if I can sell my current one. I don't do gaming much lol so I really don't need anything crazy. =) I'll say another 4 years and I'll get a new PC. I'll just keep following up. Not much of a big change in 4 years, I built my current pc 3 years ago its a 2.66ghz intel p4, its strange that win xp been out for so long =)

[isitor]

dangerden website has nice video tutorials.