Question RE Peltier PSU

[skrill]

Ok, I got an awesome deal on a switched 24V 18 Amp PSU -- $25 shipped off of Ebay. Here is link to it -- link (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1648362721&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1002819798&indexURL=0&rd=1)

The data sheet (which can be downloaded here link (http://z17.zland.com/ps/tamura/customer.nsf)) looks really good.

I plan on running a single 172W Pelt (and maybe someday going dual 120's or even 172W) -- baby steps. Here are my questions as a noob to the world of TEC's

1. Since this is a switched PSU does that mean if the circuit is broken (i.e., by a switch or relay) between the Pelt and PSU -- that the PSU will shut down?

2. Does anyone have a link to a step-by-step how to on setting up a Pelt so that it turns on with you Rig when you fire up the computer (using a relay)? I have a g/f that uses my Rig and I want to make sure this setup is fairly fool-proof so that neither she not I will ever curse ourselves for failing to fire up the Pelts before we turned on the computer -- would there be a problem with this kind of setup.

I plan on cooling an Athlon 1800+ which will be running @ between 2.1-2.3 Vcore. The rest of the cooling setup will be made up of an Eheim 1250 pump, a DD Maze 2.2 waterblock, and a Black Ice Extreme Radiator (small heater core with cooling properties slighly better than a Big Momma) -- the Rad will be cooled with two 90 CFM fans shrouded (one sucking one blowing).

Thanks for your input.

Here is pic of the PSU

[mw521]

A quick and dirty way to fire up your power supply w/o relays and extra stuff. I use an old surge protector that sits under my monitor with four outlets and a master switch. When I turn off the master it turns off (or on) all the outlets on it. They also have a switch for each individual outlet. I suppose you can still get these but the point is plug your psu into one of the outlets and when you hit the master all come on at once. An ordinary surge protector can do this. Just have one power supply for all your components, monitor, puter, power supply , etc.

[hmcgrath]

I'm trying to get the same hookup for my system except using an AC blower fan instead of a pelt. I have been given a link to a relay, which looks like it would do a fine job, but I'm unsure of how to obtain one, and hook it up as well. I've been told that cutting the power repeatedly from the PSU doesn't have any bad effects. Can anyone second that opinion. I would love to use the powerstrip method instead of a relay.

And hey, if anyone would like to make the relay setup easy and tell us where to find one, that would be great as well.

[Warlord2]

you may want to rethink your pelt relay idea

you will want the pelt and the watercooling on before the computer so the pelt has time to cool the cold plate

a "powerstrip" would be a good idea but make sure there is no way of turning the computer on before you turn the pelt/h2o setup on first.(or just be really careful)

also last time I checked the 172 watt pelt is 24v at 11amps so you may want to find a way of lowering the amps or it may burn (or may not just my guess)

just some thoughts:)

[Voodoo Rufus]

If you're going to use a Blackice, why don't you use dual 120mm fans like it was designed for? You'd get quieter and higher cfm.

BTW, excellent selection of H2O components.

[Warlord2]

I think he is

its 90cfm as in airflow


yes very nice selection of h2o components

[Voodoo Rufus]

oops. Bad reading.

A relay works good in conjuction with the power supply to turn things on. I have my relay installed inside my PS for my pump.

If the cold plate is a decent thickness why does it matter if you turn the Pelts on a few seconds earlier? A copper cold plate would have a high heat capacity.

[Colin]

It takes about 10 seconds for the pelt to cool the coldplate down to zero, hence the recommendation that you fire up the pelts before the CPU.

[Voodoo Rufus]

Are you saying you have a better chance of starting up the CPU at extreme clock rates if the cold plate is cold when you turn the PC on?

[Colin]

Originally posted by Voodoo Rufus
Are you saying you have a better chance of starting up the CPU at extreme clock rates if the cold plate is cold when you turn the PC on?

This has been my experience. It makes sense. Think about it...

[FrozenInHI]

you absolutely need to make sure that peltier is on before you power up, I have run 156watt pelts on systems before and on the very first one i did exactly what was suggested (the powerstrip thing) and my cpu died due to the pelt not being cold enough. in 8 seconds my pc was on it's way to the desktop, at 9 seconds it was a goner.

[hmcgrath]

ok, there has got to be an easy way to setup a time delay, with a trip to radio shack, and a breadboard. I just don't know what it is..

[Dissolved]

yea, great post.. i may run a peltier too (havent desided yet) and i never thought of this..

[Intraveinous]

Originally posted by Warlord2
also last time I checked the 172 watt pelt is 24v at 11amps so you may want to find a way of lowering the amps or it may burn (or may not just my guess)

First thing to ask is this, is the Peltier you're running 24V capable? I would assume so, but it never hurts to ask. 90% of the pelts I've seen are 11-15V, but 24V would be too much for those. As far as current (amperage), the peltier will take whatever it needs. He could have a 24V 100000Amp powersupply (gawd, that'd be impressive) and if all the pelt needed was 11 amps, that's all it would take. You can have more amperage than needed (in fact, it's a bad idea not to), but too much voltage will cook something pretty quickly.
Peace
John

[Colin]

Originally posted by hmcgrath
ok, there has got to be an easy way to setup a time delay, with a trip to radio shack, and a breadboard. I just don't know what it is..

The simple way to do this is have both your water pump and pelt PSU on relays to start when your computer does. Hold the reset button in for about 10 seconds when you start your computer to allow the pelts to cool down. I recommend a temp probe on the coldplate so you can see what's going on.

[skrill]

Thanks for the tips guys.

1. The Pelt(s) I would be using are 24v -- the PSU has a pot on it that I believe will ****** the voltage by up to 10% -- so I will crank it down to 20v or so (supposedly this will actually increase performance.

2. I do plan on using 120mm Fans on the Rad

3. Sounds like the cold plate itself will not be able to dissipate enough heat to carry the CPU through the first 10 seconds -- kind of hard to believe it gets hot that fast -- but Colin is the resident expert on Pelts.

Sounds like a better plan is to put the Rig and the Pelt PSU on a single powerstrip so that when you fire up the strip the Pelts comon -- wait 10 second or so -- then fire up the Rig.

New Question: what happens if I shut down the rig and forget to turn off the Pelt? Will the extreme cold damage the CPU?? If not, why not just leave the pelt running full time (problem is the Rad fans don't switch on till the Rig is fired up).

Hmmm .... setting up a Pelted system gets quite complicated.

[Colin]

If you leave your pelts on without cooling they will overheat. Sometimes the solder on the leads melts before the pelt is damaged, otherwise the pelt will be ruined. The heat may cause a hose to blow off your waterblock and soak your computer. All of this has happened to me... :D