Help me find a new case (special needs)

Currently cooling cpu/gpu. What I’m thinking is I would like to scale up to a 3x120 rad so I can run the fans at 7v. Plus insert a chipset block into the loop. (again for noise management) So I'm beginning a quest for a new case to replace my current one.

List of my special needs:

1) Maximum height 19 inches - to fit the case recess in my computer desk
2) Maximum width of 9 inches - again to fit desk recess
3) As noted, roomy enough for a 3x120 rad.
4) At least 3 x 5.5 bay external and 3 x 3.5 internal
5) Appearance wise prefer a door, something with decent style, color must be black to match other components
6) Casters, otherwise max case height reduce to 18” to save room for adding these - to ease pulling it in and out of the desk recess, rubber feet make this very difficult LOL

The height limitation imposed by my desk rules out a lot of fine cases that I’ve seen applied and that’s where the challenge lies.

OK, lets hear your recommendations! I know its out there somewhere with all the cases on the market...

buy the case you want, and mod your desk

Ya put caster on your desk it will make it easier to get the desk out of the way of the real goodies...


Actually the antec Sonata I and II would fit your need. I'm not sure about the 3x120 rad, why not make an external box for that baby and put it somewhere else then under your desk...rad needs to breath too you know.

Cute replies but no solution yet to my quest.

Mod the desk - not an option for me, its too nice a desk

Casters on desk - LOL made me smile with that one.

Sonata I or II - nice case(s) but insufficient space for 3x120 rad

External - tried external once in a previous system and not interested in repeating. Attached to the outside is not an option - want to achieve a a stealth look, dont want it to be obvious have a 3x120 inside. And rather not mess with the look of the case. Extenal rad mounts always seem to detract from appearance as far as I'm concerned.

Current status of quest But still holding out hope!

you could try building a custom case.. just a thought...

I can't help but wonder what you are doing wrong to need a 3x120 rad... Are all your components extremely overclocked and overvolted to near melting point or what?

You seem to be after silence mainly, if this is the case then a 1x120 will do just fine to keep all your stock volted and clocked components to within air temps at near noiseless. Stick a 2x120 and you can overclock pretty heavily already.

If you need a 3x120 Then I'd suggest maybe checking if your pump is giving you enough flow. How restricted is the pump inlet? What tubing are you using?
What about the static pressure on your current rad fans? They might be rated at a zillion CFM but with no static pressure they aren't blowing any air through your rad.

Not dissing you or anything, just trying to help. I just don't think anyone but the most extreme overclockers here actually need a 3x120, and even then it's questionable since you might aswell switch to extreme cooling methods then.
Check your fans and pump first.

I dont mind explaining where I'm trying to go.

I have a 2x120 rad (BIP2), PAPST fans, tubing is 7/16 ID and pump is mcp350. Cooling performance is not an issue, actually it's more then adequate in handling my 3200+ at 2600 mhz and a fairly toasty GPU (X800xt pe). And those papst fans are reasonably quiet. But not quiet enough, noise is a funny thing that way. I want to really back off on the fan speeds, why I want increased rad area to maintain performance. I'll definitely be opting for a thinner rad such as BIP3.

you could try building a custom case.. just a thought...

Click to expand...

LOL if I had the skills let alone the power tools.

try a nzxt case or something of the like

calvin said:

I dont mind explaining where I'm trying to go.

I have a 2x120 rad (BIP2), PAPST fans, tubing is 7/16 ID and pump is mcp350. Cooling performance is not an issue, actually it's more then adequate in handling my 3200+ at 2600 mhz and a fairly toasty GPU (X800xt pe). And those papst fans are reasonably quiet. But not quiet enough, noise is a funny thing that way. I want to really back off on the fan speeds, why I want increased rad area to maintain performance. I'll definitely be opting for a thinner rad such as BIP3.



LOL if I had the skills let alone the power tools.

Click to expand...

Yea I dont think that the results will be that worth while with the new rad. Your heat load and overclock dont seem that extreme to me. You are going to see a VERY small diff in temps if any at all with the extra rad area.

I'm running a 148 at 3.0Ghz and my X800XT-PE at 610/620 with a pump that does add heat to the loop (Iwaki-20) and I get very acceptable idle/load with just a double heatercore (CPU 24/33c GPU 24/36c with an ambiant of 20c). You can't have stealth and overkill in a case that small I'm afraid.

If you can fit one more inch, you could use an NZXT Lexa and mount the rad on the bottom of the case (you should have room I think).

If you can fit one more inch, you could use an NZXT Lexa and mount the rad on the bottom of the case (you should have room I think).

Click to expand...

OK been checking out reviews of this case. Yes you probably could manage a 3x120 into the bottom. But the front 3.5 cage would have to come out. I realize I may very well need to resort to a strategy like that in the end.

The internal layout is very similar to my Sonata. In fact the external dimensions of the case suggest a much larger case then it actually is. Without those curved projections above and below it would easily fall into my height requirement otherwise.

While I appreciate the suggestion, too many near misses on the requirments list.

Yea I dont think that the results will be that worth while with the new rad. Your heat load and overclock dont seem that extreme to me. You are going to see a VERY small diff in temps if any at all with the extra rad area.

Click to expand...

My goal is neither lower temps or a higher oc. It is noise management. If I can achieve this then the results will be worth it to me.

Hmm no more suggestions, TBH expected more then that. Are the requirments that much of a challenge?

19" high is damn-near the size of a triple rad. Not many cases can easily fit a rad of that size in the top or bottom, the ones that can are usually taller than 19"

Makes it quite a challenge.

Have you tried undervolting your fans first? That would surely help noise and might save you time / money. Esp if sound / keeping your current clocks is what you are after. If anything it cant hurt to try

Ankun said:

19" high is damn-near the size of a triple rad. Not many cases can easily fit a rad of that size in the top or bottom, the ones that can are usually taller than 19"

Makes it quite a challenge.

Have you tried undervolting your fans first? That would surely help noise and might save you time / money. Esp if sound / keeping your current clocks is what you are after. If anything it cant hurt to try

Click to expand...

Not what I was looking to hear, but a constructive suggestion. If nothing pops up then what you are suggesting sounds like a good substitute course of action.

Wait a minute-you're complaining about the fan noise and are happy with your temps, but you haven't tried undervolting the fans yet?

I just ordered one of these cases: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811196011

It's pretty big and the front is all perforated drive bays.

O

Damnit I cant find anycase that fits your needs

Thinking a little outside the box here, but bear with me.

If you used a Lian-Li 6077B:

1. The section that has the power & reset buttons also holds three hard drives so that requirement is taken care of.

2. If you use a short (not very deep) PSU like a Silverstone Zeus ST56ZF, a Thermochill PA-120.2 should fit in the top with about 1/2" to spare. The PA series, while thick, is designed to work with low speed fans, so you could run the Pabst fans you have very slow or replace them with Sanyo Denkis that'll run at just over 5v (which should be quiet enough--I honestly don't hear mine). And, a PA-120.2 will give you much better performance than what you're getting with the BIP2 so adding a block or even going SLI is easily do-able.

3. Since the entire front of the 6077 is made up of 5.5" drive bays (except for the part with the on/off switch), you'll still have 5, by my count, 5.5" bays left after the PA-120 and fans use up the top two.

4. Danger Den now has the OEM grills for the PA series radiators, so while the outside won't be 100% stock it will be "clean" looking--though you will need to do some modding (cutting the case for the radiator/grill/fans on the top). And if the silver color of the grill bothers you, it can easily be painted black to match the case.

5. The PC-6077 case is only 17 3/4" tall with the 1/4" feet it comes with. But, don't use "casters" to make it slide better. Give it runners (skids, like on a sleigh). A couple 1/4" wide, 1/4" tall pieces of metal attached to the bottom of the case would let it slide right out and not increase the height of the case at all (and if you cut them at an angle on the back "side" and smooth them off it'll slide right back in just as easily). And with the "extra" room on top, the fans/radiator would get plenty of airflow.

6. The only requirement this setup is missing (I think) is the door on the case, but you can't have everything

Mark

Thanks for the reply MVC! Set me on an interesting path. Went to LianLi website and started looking around and came across this interesting number:

http://www.lian-li.com/Product/Chassis/M_V_S_PC-V1100.htm

19.3 inches with casters! Has a door, stylish, and like the fact comes with noise dampening. Not clear yet how to approach the cooling part, hmm