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waterblock for GPU(dangerden)

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Personally, I would not buy a block like this. First off it is too expensive and secondly if you switch cards (which people around here tend to do fairly regularly) there is no guarantee this block will fit your new card. If you are looking at DD GPU blocks I say go Maze 4 and buy some ram sinks.
 
Alchemy1 said:
Personally, I would not buy a block like this. First off it is too expensive and secondly if you switch cards (which people around here tend to do fairly regularly) there is no guarantee this block will fit your new card. If you are looking at DD GPU blocks I say go Maze 4 and buy some ram sinks.

I agree, they do look cool and do provide the card of nearly complete fanless cooling. However the compatability is what kills it for me. Here's another thing to think about, if you buy some good copper BGA sinks then put some air over it not only are you cooling the ram but you have some good cool air going over the power regulating system. This will level out your voltage more and allow for a more stable overclock. All in all, take the $50 you save on a normal cooler with good sinks and take your girlfrend/wife out to dinner or flowers for your mom (May 14) ;) .
 
I agree with alchemy1, that block limits you with future upgrades. Ram does just fine with good sinks. If it were me I would not get a full cover block.
 
I wouldnt get a full block either, there are issues with mounting. I believe multiple people have burned up there cards.
 
I just kinda figured that a regular waterblock would be work out better I just hadn't heard anyone talk about them here, thanks
 
andyisc00l said:
I just kinda figured that a regular waterblock would be work out better I just hadn't heard anyone talk about them here, thanks

The full block does work better, it's just the negatives of compatibility and cost outweigh the possability of a few degrees. Besides most benchmark junkies that would pay for the extra few MHz use a TEC's on their cards which wouldn't work on a full coverage block without modding.
 
I use them all the time. Only reason being is because I find that if my card fails I can mail it back but with the single ram heatsinks tend to be really touchy and because Im always in my pc replacing something they always tend to fall off into the case.


So I went with the full size waterblocks.
 
Lee_Kay said:
I use them all the time. Only reason being is because I find that if my card fails I can mail it back but with the single ram heatsinks tend to be really touchy and because Im always in my pc replacing something they always tend to fall off into the case.


So I went with the full size waterblocks.


That's why you always test them before you strap on all the aftermarket cooling, Especially if you buy used.
 
how well does the arctic silver adhesive work (ramsinks)...? and which kind of arctic do you buy?
 
andyisc00l said:
how well does the arctic silver adhesive work (ramsinks)...? and which kind of arctic do you buy?
Artic epoxie holds so well that you would likely pull the ram off if you tried to remove the ramsinks, It is even possible to pull off the ram if you mix it 50/50 as the directions say you may do.
 
andyisc00l said:
how well does the arctic silver adhesive work (ramsinks)...? and which kind of arctic do you buy?


It's very tough if not impossible to get off without pulling the sinked chip with it. So whatever you do make sure this is something you'd want to stay on, which is why I suggest getting good BGA ramsinks from the get go. It will mean alot less headaces in the end when you want to upgrade your cooling. Also it's a wise idea (especially with the cards with ram on the upperside) to check clearance. You don't want to put you new card in your system then have it not fit. Also the arctic silver adhesive is great, it transfers heat very well. To be noted it is electrically conductive, you need to be very carefull when applying it to BGA ram. Get a dab under the chip and byby card. If this worries you look into Alumina Adhesive, same company makes it and it's 100% non electrical conductive.
 
I saw a test w/ a few cards where they watercooled and even used a water chiller on the vga ram and they didn't get any more mhz over air cooling.
the gpu on the other hand... ;)

my suggestion (and its a damned good one, lol) is to get a small tube of arctic ceramique (best thermal conductivity and no electrical conductivity) and instead of mixing it with an adhesive, do the following:

Apply the Ceramique to the ram sink using the old-school razor method to get a very thin layer. Then take a tube of superglue (yes... i said superglue lol) and apply a tiny drop the exact center of the chip to be sinked. Then apply your greased up ramsink, apply pressure until the superglue sets (follow package instructions).

So what's this accomplish? The heatsinks won't have much weight on them, so they really don't need much adhesion to stay on. By applying the glue in the dead center, when you want to remove the heatsink all you have to do is twist it off! Carefully of course, but the bond breaks without taking the chip w/ it.

Just my two cents, its what i've always done.
 
Great trick, I wonder how the thermal properties of glue effect the TIM. Another way is to get the said thermal adhesive above (alumina or silver) mix it according to the instructions then add some regular TIM into the epoxy mix to weaken the bond. I have yet to experment on the exact mixture of epoxy to TIM but I'd say somewhere around 50/50 would be correct.
 
Superglue can also pull ram off the video card. I use normal white glue on my video card. It works great and you can pull the chip off!
 
The thing i like about superglue over whiteglue is how little you can get away with, hopefully not effecting the thermal conductivity too much.

how much white glue do you need to get a good bond?
 
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