what do you do when teflon tape won't cut it?

[veryhumid]

My first rig was running great until I noticed a small drop of water forming on the inlet to my rad. So today I drain enough water out to remove that barb, and just about doubled the amount of tape I originally had on it. Even with the 7-8 layers, droplets still form. The rad is the swiftech 220 QP and the barb is a standard clear nylon one that many places sell. I think it is even a swiftech part. Anyway, at this point i don't even care if it is permanent, I just want a reliable system.

What can I use on the threads? Any tips for using it?

Thank you SO much!

[citronym]

I've had great success with RTV, though there may be a better solution.

[-aDaM^]

Loctite has a really good thread sealer, cheak that out.

[striker85]

Yeah, but loctite makes it next to impossible to get the two parts apart short of using a wrench. That on nylon may be a little too much, depends on what you are looking for.

[Mr. $T$]

I'd first off look into getting some metal barbs, then some blue (please not red) loctite. Apply as the directions say then because the barbs are metal you could torque them down a bit to get a good seal. Let sit for a day and your set.

[veryhumid]

okay, seems like I have a lot of options. Have any of you ever used "plumber's goop"? what exactly is it?

[-aDaM^]

okay, seems like I have a lot of options. Have any of you ever used "plumber's goop"? what exactly is it?

aye I've used it before on a leeky res, it actully works really good.

[veryhumid]

That's what it is called, though? Like I can walk into the hardware store and ask for plumber's goop? Is it a kind of epoxy or what?

[-aDaM^]

That's what it is called, though? Like I can walk into the hardware store and ask for plummer's goop? Is it a kind of epoxy or what?

Ya just ask for Plumbers Goop, its comes in a Green colored Tube.

[mortimer]

Teflon tape was never intended for this application, unless you are using threaded metal pipe. A much better solution is a teflon 'goop' like RectorSeal. Sold at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

I've done a *lot* of plumbing and have never heard of Plumbers Goop. Note the Caps. On the other hand, plumbers goop is intended to fill spaces in connectors.

[veryhumid]

I assumed "plumber's goop" was a brand or product name, that's why I used the caps. Is plumber's goop suitable for sealing plastic on plastic?

[BokiOverclocker]

standard Teflon tape is normally good only for DRY applications( air, gas, vacuum, etc)
FYI the more you put tape the worst will get. 2-3 layers should be about right thickens.

for liquids better solutions is Pipe Thread Sealant ( basically they are liquid Teflon solution that can fill in much better and they get hard after some time.
hardware store> plumbing department will have some ~$3 for small tube

Other solution would be to use Hose clamp if problem is between hose and barb fitting.

if it's the barb fitting itself than:
you can try to replace barb fitting with little larger one< it's same size but when they produce parts some are under the tolerance and some are larger. for that you have to have calipers to messure the outside size.

as above said RTV seal will work also very well ( blue is lighter and easy to clean up Vs red harder and more long lasting solution). make sure your surfaces are clean ( no water, oil, dirt, etc)

also make sure that dripping is not caused by temp difference and your hoses are what they call sweating.

if none of this can fix your problem let me know and we will find wright solution for you.

[voigts]

Pipe Thread Sealant=plumber's goop. Plumber's goop is just the slang name for it. Pipe thread sealant works very well, although it can be somewhat messy. I use RTV for everything, and it works very well especially when sealing plastic to plastic, although it can be used for just about anything.

[Sneaky]

how far do you have the barb screwed in?


could there possibly be a crack in the barb thats causing the leak?

[Electron Chaser]

Pipe Thread Sealant=plumber's goop. Plumber's goop is just the slang name for it. Pipe thread sealant works very well, although it can be somewhat messy. I use RTV for everything, and it works very well especially when sealing plastic to plastic, although it can be used for just about anything.

I am also a big fan of RTV good sealant dries in a few hours unlike "Plumbers goop". BTW I am also a hater or nylon barbs.

Let me tell you a story, once upon a time EC had a WCing rig with Nylon fittings then one day <Poof> <Buzz> <Sparks> <smoke> <Sounds of screaming laced with profanity> The end.

[teddy-2 john]

i use teflon past for water pipes it`s white it does not get hard ... the pipe dope does it is gray and for water ...i never use the tape

[VballCoach]

do you want to keep the barbs removable? I'd say be safe and get brass barbs. then solder them in so you'll get no leaks whatsoever..so long an you 'sweat' them in nicely and don't over heat the rad.

if you don't go that route, then go with liquid teflon imo.

[citronym]

The reason I use RTV is because it creates a strong water-tite bond, that in the end can easily be removed. The only problem I have ever had with RTV is that it does not bond well to glossy plastic surfaces. Make sure both surfaces are roughed.

I used RTV when I switched my lucite maze3 from 3/8 to 1/2, and when I pulled the plastic 1/2 barbs out last month they broke free immediately.

There surely is better sealant/adhesives, but this one has proven to be less than permanent for myself.

[veryhumid]

how far do you have the barb screwed in?


could there possibly be a crack in the barb thats causing the leak?

Nope, definitely not that far. There are probably about 2 threads left.

I am also a big fan of RTV good sealant dries in a few hours unlike "Plumbers goop". BTW I am also a hater or nylon barbs.

Let me tell you a story, once upon a time EC had a WCing rig with Nylon fittings then one day <Poof> <Buzz> <Sparks> <smoke> <Sounds of screaming laced with profanity> The end.

So is the RTV sealant a teflon sealant? I'm definitely going to pick some blue RTV up and give that a shot tonight. I'll check while i'm down there for a brass fitting instead of the nylon one, too.

if none of this can fix your problem let me know and we will find the right solution for you.


thanks, I'll definitely let you guys know tonight.

[ƒÓÒl]

Plumber's Goop and Marine Goop are brand names for a clear silicone based sealant. You can find them at Lowe's/Depot. The word Goop is in large white letters on the tube's label.
Stuff works great. I will say that it might hold a little too well with those semi-clear polypropylene barbs though...I've twisted a barb in half using a wrench to remove one, but it was truly watertight for months beforehand. :D
The Goop brand has two drawbacks, it's able to leave marks on plexiglass before it dries, powerfull solvent in there. And when the tube gets older, it's hard to work quickly enough before it starts to congeal because it dries so fast.

I just use clear CRC brand silicone sealant in the cheeze-whiz style can for threads. Watertight and removable. Works a treat on my barbs of the same type.

[striker85]

I have teflon tape on every fitting and barb on my cooling system and not one leak. I don't see any reason to not use teflon tape, it IS designed to be used with liquid systems. I think the only problem exists when you have many different materials in the loop. All of my fittings and barbs are brass, so teflon tape works just fine. For nylon/plastic an RTV liquid sealant would probably be the better choice.

[Electron Chaser]

I have teflon tape on every fitting and barb on my cooling system and not one leak. I don't see any reason to not use teflon tape, it IS designed to be used with liquid systems. I think the only problem exists when you have many different materials in the loop. All of my fittings and barbs are brass, so teflon tape works just fine. For nylon/plastic an RTV liquid sealant would probably be the better choice.

On my current WCing setup I also use nothing but brass barbs and teflon tape and as always I have not had to worry about a single issue with leaks.

As you can see here.

http://home.comcast.net/~jesterjoe/WCLoopDone2.JPG

I also used stainless steel worm drive clamps and torqued the crap out of em. Ok so I am a bit paranoid now.

[-aDaM^]

do you want to keep the barbs removable? I'd say be safe and get brass barbs. then solder them in so you'll get no leaks whatsoever..so long an you 'sweat' them in nicely and don't over heat the rad.

if you don't go that route, then go with liquid teflon imo.

Well you cant solder Brass to acrylic :rolleyes:

[veryhumid]

I just got back from the hardware store. They ran out of Blue RTV earlier when some people came in to fix their water cooled computer. how funny is that? The good thing is they will have more by 1:00 pm.

Any tips for applying the RTV silicone? Just apply liberally on dry threads?

[jamesavery22]

I gave up on teflon tape awhile ago. Too much mess when removing and unless you apply that crap perfectly you get bits in your loop...

RTV is easy to apply. I usually put a glob of it on some paper then paste it on the threads with a flat head screw driver.

RTV blue is easy to clean up, just rub it off while holding the part over a garbage can.


My only gripe about RTV is that the tube it comes it is hard to seal. The RTV at the tip of the tube tends to dry and you have to stab the tube somewhere to squeeze more out. I end up with tubes with 20 stabbing holes that looks like a child of the terminator and SID 6.7 shat it out.

[Electron Chaser]

I just got back from the hardware store. They ran out of Blue RTV earlier when some people came in to fix their water cooled computer. how funny is that? The good thing is they will have more by 1:00 pm.

Any tips for applying the RTV silicone? Just apply liberally on dry threads?

Put a little on your finger and apply around the bottom 1/3 of the threads on the barb make sure you get coverage all the way around the barb. You don't need a whole lot. As you insert the barb and tighten it down the excess will be trapped at the hole opening so you don't want to use too much. Once it is tightened down you should end up with a nice little ring of sealant around the base of the hole. If you use just the right amount it should look nice and not even need to be touched up or wiped off. Giving you a little extra bit of sealing as as well.

[veryhumid]

would it hurt to do like 2/3? the threads in the radiator are about 2/3 the length of the threads on the barb.

[Electron Chaser]

I wouldn't go more then say half. Otherwise you will end up with a big gob of silicone around the base of the barb. You could go 2/3 of the way up it is up to you but you will probably have to wipe off the excess around the hole and off of the barb threads. Which can get messy so just tape of the area around the hole. Wipe off the excess then remove the tape.

[veryhumid]

okay just picked up the stuff. I was about to start but I want to clear up a couple things.

EC,

which end is the "bottom"? The end with only threads on it? or the end with the nut and barb on it?

Also, should I let it set up a few hours before attaching the tubing, or attach the tubing while it is setting up?

Thanks again,

I hope this will straighten things out.

[Electron Chaser]

okay just picked up the stuff. I was about to start but I want to clear up a couple things.

EC,

which end is the "bottom"? The end with only threads on it? or the end with the nut and barb on it?

Also, should I let it set up a few hours before attaching the tubing, or attach the tubing while it is setting up?

Thanks again,

I hope this will straighten things out.

The end with only the threads on it. This is what gets threaded into the Rad so you want as many threads as possible with RTV on it. Once it is in and tightened down it is not going anywhere so you can start attaching tubing if you like.

[ƒÓÒl]

Yep, what he said^^

Hand tighten as far as you can get it, then use a wrench/pliers to give it another 1/4 turn or less...but don't go gonzo on it...it's just plastic.
Don't grip too tight with the pliers either or you can mar your purty barbs up.
Remove excess with a q-tip within an hour.

You can put your tubing on right afterwards, but if you've got to twist it to get the tube's curve facing the right direction, twist it clockwise (like tightening the threads) just to make sure it doesn't back out of the hole (it shouldn't, but it can).

You can fill it in an hour or two, according to the directions on the RTV you bought. Some set up in 2 hours, some set in 6. Don't need to wait until "full cure time" stated on the RTV tube because you're using it as a thread sealer, not a gasket.

[weapon]

Plumber's Goop and Marine Goop are brand names for a clear silicone based sealant. You can find them at Lowe's/Depot. The word Goop is in large white letters on the tube's label.
Stuff works great. I will say that it might hold a little too well with those semi-clear polypropylene barbs though...I've twisted a barb in half using a wrench to remove one, but it was truly watertight for months beforehand. :D
The Goop brand has two drawbacks, it's able to leave marks on plexiglass before it dries, powerfull solvent in there. And when the tube gets older, it's hard to work quickly enough before it starts to congeal because it dries so fast.

I just use clear CRC brand silicone sealant in the cheeze-whiz style can for threads. Watertight and removable. Works a treat on my barbs of the same type.

yep on the Plumber's Goop and Marine Goop. I have used both...as bragged on the tube "Clear, Waterproof, Paintable, Flexible. Hundreds of uses!"
It's good stuff to have around when you are dealing with fittings.

It contains toluene and petroleum distillates which is why it marks up plexi on contact (and will produce a good headache if you use in a confined room with no ventilation).

you should be able to find it at wal-m@rt, lowe's, home depot, etc. along with the other adhesives.

personal preference note -- I'd change out the fittings to brass ones.

[VballCoach]

Well you cant solder Brass to acrylic :rolleyes:
oh really...didn't know that... :rolleyes:

he said he had a drip from the inlet of is RAD not his RES. unless he's using an acrylic RAD...

[DickH]

I found that little O rings work nicely and dont require too much to use

[veryhumid]

oh really...didn't know that... :rolleyes:

he said he had a drip from the inlet of is RAD not his RES. unless he's using an acrylic RAD...

hehe, which I'm not.

Okay, I'm done class, going to give it a shot! I'll let you know if this fixed my problem!

[veryhumid]

Just applied it. I used quite a bit, enough so that some parts of the thread were almost covered when i initially put it on. I wiped the excess off with a q-tip after I screwed it in. Overall the process was very painless, and not as messy as i thought it would be. It says it sets in 1 hour, cures in 24.

I'm going to fill it up in about 3 hours. :thup:

[veryhumid]

Okay, now i'm actually using it! After 22 hours at full pump pressure there was no water, so I reinstalled the components. I'll be keeping a close eye on it, but it seems the RTV did the trick. I'll definitely be using it in the future with plastic parts as opposed to teflon tape :clap:

[Electron Chaser]

Okay, now i'm actually using it! After 22 hours at full pump pressure there was no water, so I reinstalled the components. I'll be keeping a close eye on it, but it seems the RTV did the trick. I'll definitely be using it in the future with plastic parts as opposed to teflon tape :clap:

That is great news!! Job well done!!

[ƒÓÒl]

Shweet! Now you know there's a long tradition of making a pics post eh? :D

[veryhumid]

Haha will do. the funny thing is all of a sudden near death since I reinstalled it in the case. It only does about 3MB/s burst and hangs all over the place. I have a troubleshooting thread in the storage section, but it's no big deal. Already have windows going on another drive I had ;)

I'll try to get a pic up tonight.

[Electron Chaser]

Haha will do. the funny thing is all of a sudden near death since I reinstalled it in the case. It only does about 3MB/s burst and hangs all over the place. I have a troubleshooting thread in the storage section, but it's no big deal. Already have windows going on another drive I had ;)

I'll try to get a pic up tonight.

Hey it is almost tomorrow where is the pic?

[veryhumid]

sorry, pics of silicone job keep coming out fuzzy.

Did you see the pics I posted here?

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=452573

other than that there is not a lot to see. the silicone RTV is just a 1/16" or so light blue little bulge around one of the barbs. when I try to take close ups it comes out all fuzzy :(

[Electron Chaser]

sorry, pics of silicone job keep coming out fuzzy.

Did you see the pics I posted here?

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=452573

other than that there is not a lot to see. the silicone RTV is just a 1/16" or so light blue little bulge around one of the barbs. when I try to take close ups it comes out all fuzzy :(

That is exactly what you want you obviously used just enough.

[veryhumid]

I wish I could measure it, I don't have an actual ruler. It's just slightly thicker than a credit card at the thinner parts, I figured that was a little over a mm.

Think that is enough, EC? I figure if any came out at all, that means everything behind it is sealed?

Thank you so much for all your advice, everyone