my acrylic shroud

VballCoach · Apr 6, 2006

this equals this =

and ends with this =

I'm real happy with the way this turned out. I had to do lots of sanding to 4000 to get the edges smooth and shiny but the acrylic glue was a little hard to work with. But in the end I'm happy. I have Global Win's in for now but I have some Yate Loon blue led fans coming. they'll be on a Cooldrive 6 when I'm done.

citronym · Apr 6, 2006

Fantastic! I like acrylic, and I also like DIY.

AZNBoiOnFIYA · Apr 6, 2006

very nice. at least now you can see when your rad needs dusting.

striker85 · Apr 6, 2006

That looks way better than my tupperware container

VballCoach · Apr 6, 2006

thanks for the comments.

very close to having it done.

-aDaM^ · Apr 6, 2006

lookin good :bday:

pejsaboy · Apr 6, 2006

excellent job! i was just thinking about shrouding and material options for my upcoming loop [still in the planning/gathering stage]. how are you attaching the shroud to the rad/heatercore?

VballCoach · Apr 6, 2006

pejsaboy said:
excellent job! i was just thinking about shrouding and material options for my upcoming loop [still in the planning/gathering stage]. how are you attaching the shroud to the rad/heatercore?

thanks for the compliment.

I have to tap the 4 'tabs' on the corners of the shroud that extend over each corner of the rad. I'll use a 1/4x20 tap. I'm going to fashion two 1"x6"x1/4" pieces of acrylic for the front sides of both top and bottom tank. I'll dill holes that will match up to the tapped holes in the shroud. Then I drill 4 matching holes in the front of the case. 4 1/4x20 screws then go thru the case front and thru the acrylic pieces and thread into the shroud. I'm going to use 2 nuts - one on the inside case to fasten the screw to the case and then I'll put a nut on the pieces of acrylic that will 'clamp' the top and bottom tanks to the shroud - effectively attaching the shroud to the fin area. I'll seal the shroud to the rad with calk rope...or double stick foam insulation.

I want to have it attached to the case also so this way I only need 4 screws to attach the shroud and affix the rad/shroud assembly securely to the case.

veryhumid · Apr 7, 2006

really nice work on the shroud :thup:

out of curiousity, what kind of case is that?

voigts · Apr 7, 2006

Having worked with acrylic making a number or reservoirs I can appreciate the and result. That shroud looks great. What did you use to cut the holes and side indents with? I found that a jig saw is worthless as it melts the acrylic when you are cutting and really makes a mess.

The Wicker Man · Apr 7, 2006

I like that, you have given me a new idea......

Also, You could have used a propane torch to get the edges clear again.
Quickly run the flame down the edge of the piece you just cut and all nice and clear again....

Just a FYI for next time......

VballCoach · Apr 7, 2006

veryhumid said:
really nice work on the shroud

out of curiousity, what kind of case is that?

ams cf-1009 g-tower

awesome case!

voigts said:
Having worked with acrylic making a number or reservoirs I can appreciate the and result. That shroud looks great. What did you use to cut the holes and side indents with? I found that a jig saw is worthless as it melts the acrylic when you are cutting and really makes a mess.

thanks voigts!
I used a Rotozip on highest speed. After cutting out the rear grill from the 120mm on the case, I made a template and transferred it to the acrylic. other tools used were straight edge, clamp, and ruler.

The Wicker Man said:
I like that, you have given me a new idea......

Also, You could have used a propane torch to get the edges clear again.
Quickly run the flame down the edge of the piece you just cut and all nice and clear again....

Just a FYI for next time......

thanks and will do for sure!

VballCoach · Apr 7, 2006

in the day

in the night

I swapped to the led Yate Loons instead of the Global Win NCBs. They're louder than the Globals but I'll have them on the CoolDrive 6's. Plus I like the led in the acrylic!

MVC · Apr 7, 2006

voigts said:
... I found that a jig saw is worthless as it melts the acrylic when you are cutting and really makes a mess.

I use 10 TPI Bosch blades made for wood (with minimal crosscut on the tooth angle) and don't have any problems cutting 1/8" and above acrylic. But, you do have to go slow--it doesn't take much friction to build up enough heat to melt the acrylic--and jig saws that allow you to set the maximum speed really help since you can't go too fast by accident once it's set.

-aDaM^ · Apr 7, 2006

VballCoach said:
in the day

in the night

I swapped out the led Yate Loons for the Global Win NCBs. They're louder than the Globals but I'll have them on the CoolDrive 6's. Plus I like the led in the acrylic!

Very nice, modded MCP350 ??

meionm · Apr 7, 2006

Nice job

Primu$ · Apr 7, 2006

If i give you some acrylic can you make me one of those?
Looks great!

VballCoach · Apr 8, 2006

yes on the modded mcp350

Primu$ pm me

I hooked up the Antec 120mm LED on the rear and it's WAY louder at 12v than those Yate Loons...too loud for me...gonna go all 120mm Loon

for sure!

my acrylic shroud

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