Thinking about going to water

Kris · Apr 16, 2006

After 2 weeks of 65db delta on my XP120 my wife is making me change it(clever way to get permission to upgrade

). I have been looking thru the stickies here and over at xtreme and I have come up with the following parts list.
cpu block
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swstunhipebl.html
Rad-Going for low noise or wife will kill me! :argue:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bliceproiiit.html
Pump
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html

This will be a half inch line(tygon) loop with danger den barbs fitted to everything I can fit them to. I will be using a fill port and res from frozen cpu
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-res-85.html
Modded into the top of my thermaltake armor for hopefuly easy filling. I also plan on mounting the rad in the front of the case ( barbs down with pump right behind the rad) pushing air into the case. I hope to keep the loop very short this way and next year when I upgrade the vid cards I will add them to the loop. Please let me know if my plan is flawed or there is a better way to do this. :shrug:

Thanks

soloz2 · Apr 16, 2006

looks like you've got a good setup.
I would suggest tt thunderblade fans as they push 78cfm at only 21db. I've got 2 on my heater core and they're amazing. Also, if you place the fans so they pull the air through your rad it will probably be quieter.
Also, 7/16" ID tubing would be best w/ those 1/2" barbs. Masterkleer is good

-aDaM^ · Apr 16, 2006

Kris said:
After 2 weeks of 65db delta on my XP120 my wife is making me change it(clever way to get permission to upgrade ). I have been looking thru the stickies here and over at xtreme and I have come up with the following parts list.
cpu block
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swstunhipebl.html
Rad-Going for low noise or wife will kill me!
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bliceproiiit.html
Pump
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html

This will be a half inch line(tygon) loop with danger den barbs fitted to everything I can fit them to. I will be using a fill port and res from frozen cpu
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-res-85.html
Modded into the top of my thermaltake armor for hopefuly easy filling. I also plan on mounting the rad in the front of the case ( barbs down with pump right behind the rad) pushing air into the case. I hope to keep the loop very short this way and next year when I upgrade the vid cards I will add them to the loop. Please let me know if my plan is flawed or there is a better way to do this.
Thanks

That's a mighy fine setup right there

I would suggest, if your going to use Tygon, use Tygon R1000.

Kris · Apr 16, 2006

-aDaM^ said:
That's a mighy fine setup right there I would suggest, if your going to use Tygon, use Tygon R1000.

What is the difference between the regular stuff and the 1000?

Kris · Apr 16, 2006

soloz2 said:
looks like you've got a good setup.
I would suggest tt thunderblade fans as they push 78cfm at only 21db. I've got 2 on my heater core and they're amazing. Also, if you place the fans so they pull the air through your rad it will probably be quieter.
Also, 7/16" ID tubing would be best w/ those 1/2" barbs. Masterkleer is good

Wouldn't the 7/16" tubing be to tight to get over the 1/2" barbs?

voigts · Apr 16, 2006

If you want quiet, go with the MCP350 pump instead of the D5- (for example- http://www.crazypc.com/items/9335.html). It is a lot quieter and performs on par with the d5 in restrictive systems.

As for fans, there is no such thing as a fan that pushes 78cfm at 21db regardless of what they advertise. About the quietest fans you are going to find are scythe s-flex fans (for example- http://jab-tech.com/Scythe-S-Flex-Fan-SFF21E-pr-3256.html). Three of these on a BIPIII will cool whatever you want very quietly.

For tubing, masterkleer 7/16"ID 3/32" walled is a good choice (mcmaster.com, search for item #5233K44 @ .38c a foot.

7/16" will stretch fine over 1/2" barbs with a little hot/boiling water and/or dishsoap. 1/2" barbs are actually about 7/16"ID hence using 7/16"ID tubing keeps the flow path of a consistent diameter.

-aDaM^ · Apr 16, 2006

Kris said:
What is the difference between the regular stuff and the 1000?

its much softer, has tighter bend radius. It's basically the best quality tubing for watercooling, it packs a hefty price but its well worth it.

-aDaM^ · Apr 16, 2006

Kris said:
Wouldn't the 7/16" tubing be two tight to get over the 1/2" barbs?

Lots of people use Masterkleer, I personally think its crap.

I would go with 1/2"ID and 3/4"OD tubing perferably Tygon R1000 or Primoflex.

voigts · Apr 16, 2006

-aDaM^ said:
its much softer, has tighter bend radius. It's basically the best quality tubing for watercooling, it packs a hefty price but its well worth it.

I differ with this. R1000 is so soft that it can collapse in on itself. I absolutely do not think it is worth the price. If you are sold on tygon, go for R3603.

You can use 1/2"ID 3/4"ID, but you won't see a performance difference in doing so and the larger tubing is just a little harder to route as it takes up more room.

Masterkleer is good tubing and works fine. The advantage of it is that is doesn't stain easily whereas tygon will stain. Tygon is the cadillac of tubing, but it really isn't necessary. It is however easier to work with getting on and off barbs than the masterkleer.

Kris · Apr 16, 2006

Thanks for the responses! Going with the tygon just because I here recomended every where. I was trying to figure out where in the loop to put the T line to go to my res. I was going to go from pump to cpu block to rad and back to the pump. Wgere would be the best place in the loop for the res?

-aDaM^ · Apr 16, 2006

voigts said:
I differ with this. R1000 is so soft that it can collapse in on itself. I absolutely do not think it is worth the price. If you are sold on tygon, go for R3603.

You can use 1/2"ID 3/4"ID, but you won't see a performance difference in doing so and the larger tubing is just a little harder to route as it takes up more room.

Masterkleer is good tubing and works fine. The advantage of it is that is doesn't stain easily whereas tygon will stain. Tygon is the cadillac of tubing, but it really isn't necessary. It is however easier to work with getting on and off barbs than the masterkleer.

I have tygon r3603 , r1000 , primoflex , masterkleer , clearflex i would rate them.....

R1000 > Primoflex > r3606 > masterkleer > clearflex

Kris · Apr 16, 2006

voigts said:
If you want quiet, go with the MCP350 pump instead of the D5- (for example- http://www.crazypc.com/items/9335.html). It is a lot quieter and performs on par with the d5 in restrictive systems.

As for fans, there is no such thing as a fan that pushes 78cfm at 21db regardless of what they advertise. About the quietest fans you are going to find are scythe s-flex fans (for example- http://jab-tech.com/Scythe-S-Flex-Fan-SFF21E-pr-3256.html). Three of these on a BIPIII will cool whatever you want very quietly.

For tubing, masterkleer 7/16"ID 3/32" walled is a good choice (mcmaster.com, search for item #5233K44 @ .38c a foot.

7/16" will stretch fine over 1/2" barbs with a little hot/boiling water and/or dishsoap. 1/2" barbs are actually about 7/16"ID hence using 7/16"ID tubing keeps the flow path of a consistent diameter.

Been xtreme air cooling for over a year so I know what you mean when it comes to the cfm to db ratio(higher the cfm = higher db level) I actually run 5 93cfm tt thunderblade fans
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811999122
jumped to run full speed. I can run them on a controler to use them at a reduced speed...

Perium · Apr 16, 2006

ive had tygon unknown number and primoflex, id have to say primoflex is better. I got it for $1.40 foot

voigts · Apr 16, 2006

-aDaM^ said:
I have tygon r3603 , r1000 , primoflex , masterkleer , clearflex i would rate them.....

R1000 > Primoflex > r3606 > masterkleer > clearflex

Whatever works for you. I'll stick with tygon r3603 or masterkleer personally, although I must admit I haven't used primoflex.

soloz2 · Apr 16, 2006

I've only used masterkleer so I can't say if it is definately better or worse than other tubing, but I really like it and it's cheap!

-aDaM^ · Apr 16, 2006

voigts said:
Whatever works for you. I'll stick with tygon r3603 or masterkleer personally, although I must admit I haven't used primoflex.

primoflex is teh bomb, better turn radius then maskterkleer and it comes in UV Blue & Green

Kris · Apr 18, 2006

Been doing a lot of reading and I have seen many people running two pumps in their loops. My question is at what piont does this become a necessity?

thorilan · Apr 18, 2006

i agree with voigts here . be very carefull of cfm vs db as almost every rating i have ever seen and this includes reputable companies range from total BS to just plain wrong or misleading.

at 21db you can not hear a thing inside a computer case with EVERYTHING ELSE OFF. your case should cancel out the noise if you are more thanhalf a meter away at a 45 deg angle or less from air intake holes

voigts said:
If you want quiet, go with the MCP350 pump instead of the D5- (for example- http://www.crazypc.com/items/9335.html). It is a lot quieter and performs on par with the d5 in restrictive systems.

As for fans, there is no such thing as a fan that pushes 78cfm at 21db regardless of what they advertise. About the quietest fans you are going to find are scythe s-flex fans (for example- http://jab-tech.com/Scythe-S-Flex-Fan-SFF21E-pr-3256.html). Three of these on a BIPIII will cool whatever you want very quietly.

For tubing, masterkleer 7/16"ID 3/32" walled is a good choice (mcmaster.com, search for item #5233K44 @ .38c a foot.

7/16" will stretch fine over 1/2" barbs with a little hot/boiling water and/or dishsoap. 1/2" barbs are actually about 7/16"ID hence using 7/16"ID tubing keeps the flow path of a consistent diameter.

Mr. $T$ · Apr 18, 2006

Personally I use an Apogee, MCP350(18w), MCW55, and BIPII with 7/16|11/16 all around and couldn't be happier. You seem to have a very good system picked out although I do suggest you go with the MCP350 18w version. Some people maybe turned off because of it's native 3/8 fittings however this I easly bipassed. What I did was take two lenghts of 3/8|1/2 that covered the entire barb alone then streched my 7/16 over the 3/8. This created a tight fitting that by itself was very snug however being the do-it-right-the-first-time guy I sinched it with a pair of ZipTies per barb.

Kris · Apr 18, 2006

It's funny you mention that pump MCP350(18w). I was just reading about it today at lunch. I wonder if there is an increase in flow over the 10w version? All things being equal I guess there should be. I am a little worried about not having enough pump for the block I want to run.

Thinking about going to water

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